I dont use any calculators and have made some great beer, i think its only needed if your doing a full biab method that uses all the water inc the sparge water volume in the mash, but you would need a bigger pot than 32l for that.
i have a 32 litre peco boiler and all ive ever done is use about...
i brew outside as its just easier and i dont have a garage.. i have one very long kettle lead and a cheap asda 13amp wheel type extension lead.. the extension has 13 amp 3120 watts when unwound written on it.. you have to unwind the extension or itl create resistance and you wont get full...
The extra power is nice and does shave off 20 - 30 mins off a brew day.. but I fitted a 2nd element to make sure i never loose a batch of beer with a failed element mid brew.. I have no large stove pots so I would be knackered if the elememt failed
ive never actually timed it but, yes i would say so
i only use one element to get to mash temp as i am usually measuring grain and hops ect while the strike water heats up... so it gives me a bit more time, but i use two elements to get up to mash out temp then to bring it up to the boil.. i...
i use 2 pico elements and have no issues.. all i do is plug them in different wall sockets in the kitchen just to be safe.. saves brewing time and makes it so if i have an element fail i can carry on with the brew and replace an element after
Keep us posted.. Always interested to see how people build there setups..
Also I ment to say that you dont have to use the water lines.. you can just disconnect them if you want.. but IMHO its worth it.. Otherwise youl loose a bit of beer in the lines if you dont pour off for a few days...
looking at your cooler on the left you have a 2 line flash cooler with water re-circ.. basically means you can run 2 kegs and run a water jacket along the lines to keep them cool.. i think its called python line, but its just means you can pump cold water along side your beer line to keep it...
the most expensive parts where the taps.. but as a rough guide ill list it all for you, bare in mind that i didnt try and save alot of cash on the build and tried to buy new or as good as new because the keezer is kept in the house and it need to look good so i didnt get ear ache off the mrs...
been a bit quiet on the forum recently.. but been very busy building my brewing factory!!
picked myself up a 2nd hand fridge of ebay for ã20 and an ink bird controller from amazon.. the fridge was practically new.. so was well chuffed with that.. the temp control and chill crash seems to of...
whats the thought on this.. been a bit quiet on the forum lately but ive been building up my brewery..lol so with new equipment and a new approach
ive baught a fermentation fridge and built a kegerator so have more options than before so i was going to cornie keg a batch of turbo cider and...
happens to me aswell.. iam glad somebody else has noticed it..
on a side note back in the day a certain closely related herb used in rizlas never agreed with me either.. never had a problem with beer though.
yea go for it.. grab one of these and a couple of hose pipe connectors and get stuck in..
http://www.thehomebrewcompany.co.uk/biab-starter-kit-peco-boiler-chiller-mashing-bag-mash-kit-p-2507.html
dont forget the forum discount.. will be about 75 quid delivered
there has been previous posts on this forum about the odd faulty element, where they leak through the welds and through the centre of the element and not pass the seal
i use 2 peco elements in mine and have never had a problem.. although i put the seal on the inside of the boiler because on the element there is a groove that the seal drops into on the element thread.. if you put the seal on the outside i dont think it would sit in the groove
i only fit them...