Recent content by Loic

+! foxbat, Bottle it very gently from the below don't stir it. Then you will see very quickly (few days) on the top of your bottle if the infection is still there.

thanks, Peebee, Now wait and see, the fermentation temperature is well controlled round 18 and 19°C, might be a little higher than I wanted but never mind I run out of space in fridge. I was quite indecisive; my heart was balanced between just a quick step like 30min at 30°C for a clearer and...

hello ! I'm moving back to this topic, Big thanks to PEEBEE for sharing your knowledge on this topic. below all information I gathered from different articles : Low in alcohol beer is a beer containing alcohol within the range 0.5 to 1.2% Biological method : Yeast with low attenuation like...

Nope, but I adjust the boiling time as I use to "boil" at 90 degrees, sometime it's a bit longer to get the target gravity.

Thanks for this advice; I use to brew with 11g for dry yeast like Allemand or safal dry yeast for 15 or 20L batch. I do a filtration after 10 days so I use to remove lot of the yeast before the lagering and bottle the beer. Let’s try with 1/2 pack of yeast for this time and the S33 :). My...

Hi Peebee, Thanks for this information; your thread is very interesting athumb.. I will take all of your feeback. Good ideas, brewing at high temperature, you won’t extract all fermentable sugar but keep a malty aroma and of course playing with yeast. As your say, using a low attenuation yeat...

aunsure.... two weeks... too long can't wait as long !!!!! I'm tasting carbonisation and other after the first week and every week I taste it...:beer1: the only risk is to reduce your final quantity :roll: cheers

Hi all, Reading CAMRA news today, I've found an interesting topic on brewing low in alcool beer and a discussion about the next beer brewing revolution. I wonder if someone has ever tried to brew such beer. From my point view I would say that we could brew it using part of fermentable malt...

I would say for 30L or less, the heating element doesn't matter, it will heat your wort quick enough. But from my point of view electric is better. It is easier to control mashing step temperature even using a ON/OFF controller :).

+1 with the Citra, I’m usually use Simcoe in dry hop or at the very last boiling step (like 5min and 1min before end). Cheers

That is correct :). Without oxygen your year won’t produce desired flavours. By afraid, I mean, I try to be carefully when I’m transferring beer to another vessel for filtration. Good idea I will try to pitch my next batch with yeast from the previous bottles batch. Have you ever try yeast...

Hi all, I've just read the book "yeast : the practical guide to beer fermentation" and I would like to share with you my notes and my experiences as homebrewer about fermentation So please feel free to make any correction or share your experience :) I would like to start by this tow following...

Agree with Bigcol, I use to boil less than 200cl of water for any batch upper than 10L, to cool it down I sometime add a bit of the wort. (Ok you will kill a very small amount of yeast) :) An advice don’t stir your wort too energetically otherwise you could oxidise your beer.

thanks for you warm welcome :)

Hi all ! I'm Loic, 29 french, just arrived in UK I've been brewing since 2012 in Ardeche (for those who know) first all grain batch with my cousin in a microbrewery handmade but fully operational. Today I want to continue to brew in UK and I especially designed a picobrewery for UK a small...