Festival Golden Stag Summer Ale Review

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I wish someone could tell me what causes HBT! It's not the water and it's not the sanitiser. That leaves me with temperature control or possibly old extract in the tin. The first two kits I made had that smell and taste and it's so off putting. The Golden Stag is not so bad but it's still there. It could drive a man to drink...

I don't know what causes HBT but I do reckon that two months of conditioning will get rid of it in almost all cases! :thumb:

BTW I added extra hops to my Stag so maybe that made the difference.
 
I have to say the golden stag was a great kit and I've made most of the festival range, I think however the use of boiling water poured on to hopped malt extract cannot help with the taste, so I have just done an experiment where I've brewed two identical beers one with boiling water and one with mash temperature 65 degrees.
Both are in the same fermentation fridge at the same temperature, so we shall see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have to say the golden stag was a great kit and I've made most of the festival range, I think however the use of boiling water poured on to hopped malt extract cannot help with the taste, so I have just done an experiment where I've brewed two identical beers one with boiling water and one with mash temperature 65 degrees.
Both are in the same fermentation fridge at the same temperature, so we shall see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's a good shout, Ive never even considered that,the boiling water might cause a twang??
If it does, you will have solved a mystery
 
I have to say the golden stag was a great kit and I've made most of the festival range, I think however the use of boiling water poured on to hopped malt extract cannot help with the taste, so I have just done an experiment where I've brewed two identical beers one with boiling water and one with mash temperature 65 degrees.
Both are in the same fermentation fridge at the same temperature, so we shall see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The consequences of pouring boiling water onto the extract has often crossed my mind. I'll be really interested to hear what you turn up.
 
I have to say the golden stag was a great kit and I've made most of the festival range, I think however the use of boiling water poured on to hopped malt extract cannot help with the taste, so I have just done an experiment where I've brewed two identical beers one with boiling water and one with mash temperature 65 degrees.
Both are in the same fermentation fridge at the same temperature, so we shall see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any results ?
 
I've just set off a Brewferm Triple (9L) kit which was fussy about 55 degrees. It's bubbling and foaming nicely. Mixed up lovely too. I might avoid the boil next time I make a 23L kit.
 
So the results are in, and I can say the 65 degrees beer is a lot better, there is no twang at all and it tasted a lot fresher. The boiling water beer is still ok, don't get me wrong, but I detect a slight 'homebrewyness' about it. I will from now on make all kits with 65 degree water. The experiment was a complete success. Happy days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So the results are in, and I can say the 65 degrees beer is a lot better, there is no twang at all and it tasted a lot fresher. The boiling water beer is still ok, don't get me wrong, but I detect a slight 'homebrewyness' about it. I will from now on make all kits with 65 degree water. The experiment was a complete success. Happy days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brilliant work! That's really interesting and is something I will look at when I start my Cwtch (which may even be this weekend).

Thanks for posting!
 
Brilliant work! That's really interesting and is something I will look at when I start my Cwtch (which may even be this weekend).

Thanks for posting!


Only Problem here is the cwtch uses the boiling water to get the hops flavour etc out prior to the malt going in. Just a case of letting it cool a bit before you add the malt.
 
Follow the cwtch instructions, the boiling water is for the bitterness/flavour and the hot/cold water quantities are to get to the right pitch temperature. Key point is to add yeast at the right temp as that can ' cause the home brew taste
I did a cwtch last year and it was good.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
I honestly think the kit manufacturers add the hops to disguise the homebrew taste and it works to great affect. All kits that add hops are superb nowadays and even Woodfordes are getting in on the act again happy days. I have a Grainfather now but still make kits as they are quick and easy, and when they taste as great, all the better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've seen a few people dance about with the amount of time in the FV, often well over the 10 days stated. Are you just waiting for a steady FG, or is it a general rule that you give it a few days' grace to be sure the beer will mature and clear completely? Nothing to be lost and lots to be gained etc? Sorry, I'm a rookie.
 
I brewed one of these on the 28th April and still have it hanging around in a plastic pressure barrel. It went through a stage of tasting really great but now it has a "homebrewy" twang. I also found it to be quite soapy in flavour and high in bitterness. On the plus side though, the beer smells pretty good and has cleared up really well, it's a shame it isn't as drinkable as I would've liked.
 
I found a bottle of this last night, not too bad but still same lingering taste as the Cwtch , clear enough

0672C687-017C-44A9-839A-B5323E747901.jpg
 
I've seen a few people dance about with the amount of time in the FV, often well over the 10 days stated. Are you just waiting for a steady FG, or is it a general rule that you give it a few days' grace to be sure the beer will mature and clear completely? Nothing to be lost and lots to be gained etc? Sorry, I'm a rookie.

Anyone able to field this one? Just want to make sure I'm hitting all the marks. As far as I'm aware I've not made any errors on this brew yet, would love it to be as good as possible
 
Aleik - I'm relatively new but have quickly adopted two weeks as pretty standard time in the FV. I tend to take a FG reading & if that's around expected then get on & bottle. Instructions often have a typical FG or I tend to think of 1.010 as being "about right." I'm mainly checking that it hasn't stuck at the "dreaded" 1.020 especially if using Muntons undersized yeast. The alternative is to take a reading, wait & couple of days & take another. If still going down, then repeat. If steady then bottle. Even if doing that, I'd consider two weeks to be starting point.

For example - my current brew has now been on 10 days. Reading is around 1.011 so I'm looking to bottle on Saturday (I've just done the dry hop so took a reading while it was open anyway). I'll take another reading Saturday before bottling but I don't expect a significant change.
 
Thanks so much, this clears a lot up. A few pals are coming over and I'm glad I postponed them a week. I'll use all the extra time. Cheers!
 
I've seen a few people dance about with the amount of time in the FV, often well over the 10 days stated. Are you just waiting for a steady FG, or is it a general rule that you give it a few days' grace to be sure the beer will mature and clear completely? Nothing to be lost and lots to be gained etc? Sorry, I'm a rookie.
An extended time in the FV ensures, in order
- the primary has finished
- the yeast 'cleans up after itself' (apparently), and the unwanted byproducts it initially created are removed
- the yeast drops and the beer increasingly clears (which means less carry over at packaging)
I find about 16 days minimum suits me for most beers, although some leave it longer.
 
An extended time in the FV ensures, in order
- the primary has finished
- the yeast 'cleans up after itself' (apparently), and the unwanted byproducts it initially created are removed
- the yeast drops and the beer increasingly clears (which means less carry over at packaging)
I find about 16 days minimum suits me for most beers, although some leave it longer.

Thanks a lot. I'm sure I could have asked this elsewhere now I know it's kind of unilaterally applied. Wonder why most instructions keep brew times shorter...maybe the least time needed to create a "passable" beer
 
Wonder why most instructions keep brew times shorter...maybe the least time needed to create a "passable" beer
Most kit instructions are far too optimistic about brew timings. I think the idea is for suppliers to try to sell their product to the unsuspecting on the basis that 'real' beer can be produced in a matter of two or three weeks or so from opening the kit package to drinking it. Experienced home brewers know otherwise, whether by learning from their own experience or by listening to the advice of others :thumb:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top