The crossmyloof brewery yeast

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Don't use 2 packs! I did just that with a recent brew, against my lifelong practise of using just 1and ended up with the most horrendously cloudy ale in the bottles. Gonna end up with 3mm sediment in these. Wasn't prepared for a plan B like transferring to secondary etc... I'd already got the bottles sterilised etc etc. Gonna put it down to experience and stick to the tried and tested 1 pack - there is simply no need whatsoever to use more. And it's a pack wasted grrrr.
 
Gunge said:
Don't use 2 packs! I did just that with a recent brew, against my lifelong practise of using just 1and ended up with the most horrendously cloudy ale in the bottles. Gonna end up with 3mm sediment in these. Wasn't prepared for a plan B like transferring to secondary etc... I'd already got the bottles sterilised etc etc. Gonna put it down to experience and stick to the tried and tested 1 pack - there is simply no need whatsoever to use more. And it's a pack wasted grrrr.
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Gunge said:
Don't use 2 packs! I did just that with a recent brew, against my lifelong practise of using just 1and ended up with the most horrendously cloudy ale in the bottles. Gonna end up with 3mm sediment in these. Wasn't prepared for a plan B like transferring to secondary etc... I'd already got the bottles sterilised etc etc. Gonna put it down to experience and stick to the tried and tested 1 pack - there is simply no need whatsoever to use more. And it's a pack wasted grrrr.
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I think your absolutely right you don't need it however i have used 2 packs many times and had very clear beer. Will stick to 1 from now though as i cant tell any difference.
 
Using the US pale ale yeast for the first time, it seems to be doing a nice clean job even in these crazy temperatures based on the samples I just tried. It has dropped out quite significantly and even though it had only been a week, I sort of expected it to have finished based on some of the comments here, in fact it's done 1.049-1.020. No big deal at all and I was probably being overly optimistic, I stirred it all back up and it's bulging the lid of the buckets again immediately, I'll check again in another week.
 
BeerCat said:
I think your absolutely right you don't need it however i have used 2 packs many times and had very clear beer. Will stick to 1 from now though as i cant tell any difference.
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To be fair and honest I did bottle a few days early cos of upcoming time constraints but I know for certain that it would have been far clearer with one pack. But I'm also certain that there's zero advantage in using 2 packs. Another homebrew myth busted by experience.
 
Ajhutch said:
Using the US pale ale yeast for the first time, it seems to be doing a nice clean job even in these crazy temperatures based on the samples I just tried. It has dropped out quite significantly and even though it had only been a week, I sort of expected it to have finished based on some of the comments here, in fact it's done 1.049-1.020. No big deal at all and I was probably being overly optimistic, I stirred it all back up and it's bulging the lid of the buckets again immediately, I'll check again in another week.
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I've had to give these a stir to get them going again. All the yeasts from CML have attenuated well though
As for the two pack thing, I couldn't say as I've been overpitching since making small AG batches (11 litres). I'm not one to keep half packs of yeast once opened. And since using Irish moss I've noticed a considerable difference in clarity
 
Used a US Pale for a Devils Backbone clone .... yes its the best brew I have ever made.

Not sure if the yeast or the process, but the only thing I changed was the yeast.

Hops shining through like a good un.
 
for my 2nd and 3rd AG brews i intend doing a Russian Imperial Stout and a Northern Brown Ale, taken from Greg Hugh's book. The yeast called for in the Russian Stout is Fermentis US05 and the brown ale is Yeast 1098 English ale although i would prefer dried yeast for this. The hops are Challenger and Golding for the Russian and admiral and challenger for the Brown So my question is can crossmyloof supply these as i cannot seem to find them advertising their stock anywhere.
 
private4587 said:
for my 2nd and 3rd AG brews i intend doing a Russian Imperial Stout and a Northern Brown Ale, taken from Greg Hugh's book. The yeast called for in the Russian Stout is Fermentis US05 and the brown ale is Yeast 1098 English ale although i would prefer dried yeast for this. The hops are Challenger and Golding for the Russian and admiral and challenger for the Brown So my question is can crossmyloof supply these as i cannot seem to find them advertising their stock anywhere.
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You'll find them on eBay where they are called pugsonmydoorstep. They've got a selection of 64 hops including all the ones you've got listed above. My experience of their yeast is limited so far but they have a US pale ale yeast and a real ale yeast which you could probably use as substitutes for those two


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private4587 said:
for my 2nd and 3rd AG brews i intend doing a Russian Imperial Stout and a Northern Brown Ale, taken from Greg Hugh's book. The yeast called for in the Russian Stout is Fermentis US05 and the brown ale is Yeast 1098 English ale although i would prefer dried yeast for this. The hops are Challenger and Golding for the Russian and admiral and challenger for the Brown So my question is can crossmyloof supply these as i cannot seem to find them advertising their stock anywhere.
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eMail Steve direct and he'll let you know what's available.

[email protected]

There's a few posts on this particular thread a few pages back.

Gerry
 
chub1 said:
So far i have not had any problem with the CML yeasts.Always re hydrate all my dried yeast now,easy to do.
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Less likely to stress yeast and see if you've got a dud pack of yeast before pitching

Are you as perticular as to have the temp of the brew 2C+- of the temp of the yeast solution ?
 
Ordered a real ale packet.. will see how it goes, its for an OSH clone of my old extract clone.. should have got a liquid strain probably but forgot.. hey ho.. lets hope its a good one.. I used nottingham I think in the last one which I made years ago and it was a little too dry for the style I think.
 
Personal91 said:
Less likely to stress yeast and see if you've got a dud pack of yeast before pitching

Are you as perticular as to have the temp of the brew 2C+- of the temp of the yeast solution ?
Click to expand...

have been rehydrating all my dried yeast's at 30c and left for around 30 mins before adding to wort.

 
Covrich said:
Ordered a real ale packet.. will see how it goes, its for an OSH clone of my old extract clone.. should have got a liquid strain probably but forgot.. hey ho.. lets hope its a good one.. I used nottingham I think in the last one which I made years ago and it was a little too dry for the style I think.
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The Real Ale and US Pale are both belting yeasts. For me, the US Pale just edges it. I can't be bothered to even try spelling that fancy French phrase which roughly means 'having that certain something that you can't define' but that's what it's got.
 
Might consider the US pale then when I try an american style again next, I assume its a chico style one??

I use Nottingham/wilko yeast from time to time but I just find it a bit... bland in English styles
 
chub1 said:

have been rehydrating all my dried yeast's at 30c and left for around 30 mins before adding to wort.
Click to expand...

If my thermometer is on the fritz or cant find it I use water that is body temp. I test by putting my fingers/hand in and if I can't feel the temp ( it's same temp as you if you can't feel it)

That wasn't aimed at you more newer brewers :)
 
Gunge said:
The Real Ale and US Pale are both belting yeasts. For me, the US Pale just edges it. I can't be bothered to even try spelling that fancy French phrase which roughly means 'having that certain something that you can't define' but that's what it's got.
Click to expand...

The US also makes a great Stout or BIPA and has a high alcohol tolerance.
 

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