St Austell Trelawny recipe (potentially AG#3)

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Southcoastjim

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Hi everyone,

Have currently got my AG#2 in the brewfridge, due to be bottled at the weekend. I have been thinking about what to brew next and I have (almost) decided on the St Austell Trelawny as a nice easy drinking beer. I havent managed to find any recipes for this beer so I thought i would have a bash at my own.
I would be grateful if you all could take a look at it and give me some feedback. It is the first time I have constructed a recipe from scratch! I have added a couple of extra grains for complexity - the Melanoiden for more aromatics and a touch of colour; the Rye for a hint of spiciness. I have added First Gold hops as I need to use some up and thought it would work as a bittering tool and complement the Goldings and Galaxy.

I have taken the basic ingredients and other info from the brewery website.

Recipe: Trelawny TYPE: All Grain
Style: Special/Best/Premium Bitter
---RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS-----------------------------------------------
SRM: 17.7 EBC SRM RANGE: 9.8-31.5 EBC
IBU: 39.1 IBUs Tinseth IBU RANGE: 25.0-40.0 IBUs
OG: 1.040 SG OG RANGE: 1.040-1.048 SG
FG: 1.009 SG FG RANGE: 1.008-1.012 SG
BU:GU: 0.968 Calories: 419.0 kcal/l Est ABV: 4.0 %
EE%: 68.00 % Batch: 23.00 l Boil: 28.67 l BT: 60 Mins

---WATER CHEMISTRY ADDITIONS----------------

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
23.00 l Ashbeck Water 1 -

Total Grain Weight: 4.42 kg Total Hops: 86.00 g oz.
---MASH/STEEP PROCESS------MASH PH:5.40 ------
>>>>>>>>>>-ADD WATER CHEMICALS BEFORE GRAINS!!<<<<<<<
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
3.26 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 2 73.8 %
0.89 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 30L (59.1 EBC) Grain 3 20.1 %
0.18 kg Melanoiden Malt (60.0 EBC) Grain 4 4.1 %
0.09 kg Rye Malt (9.3 EBC) Grain 5 2.0 %


Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 12.65 l of water at 73.5 C 66.7 C 60 min

---SPARGE PROCESS---
>>>>>>>>>>-RECYCLE FIRST RUNNINGS & VERIFY GRAIN/MLT TEMPS: 22.2 C/22.2 C
>>>>>>>>>>-ADD BOIL CHEMICALS BEFORE FWH
Drain mash tun, Batch sparge with 2 steps (10.74l, 10.74l) of 75.6 C water
Amt Name Type %/IBU
20.00 g First Gold [7.50 %] - First Wort 60.0 mi Hop 16.7 IBUs
10.00 g Galaxy [14.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min Hop 15.6 IBUs

---BOIL PROCESS-----------------------------
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1.036 SG Est OG: 1.040 SG
Amt Name Type %/IBU
5.00 g Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 10.0min 0.9 IBUs
5.00 g Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min 2.8 IBUs
8.00 g Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 5.0min 0.9 IBUs
8.00 g Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min 2.3 IBUs

Amt Name Type %/IBU
15.00 g Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Aroma Steep 30min 0.0 IBUs
15.00 g Galaxy [14.00 %] - Aroma Steep 30.0 min 0.0 IBUs
 
Also, I use Ashbeck bottled water from Tesco, is it worth me adjusting my water profile eg Burtonising it?
 
Southcoastjim said:
Also, I use Ashbeck bottled water from Tesco, is it worth me adjusting my water profile eg Burtonising it?

Been a long time since I used Ashbeck. The only adjustment I would make would be to add 1tsp of gypsum to both the mash and the boil to ensure that enough calcium is present. The gypsum will also make the hops more pronounced.

You could also use the Ashbeck analysis and plug the values in to the forum water treatment calculator to see what it gives.
 
Thanks for the tips.

I used the water calculator here and also used the one on Beersmith 2 set for a Burton profile, but both came out completely different, plus Beersmith 2 doesnt mention putting anything into the boil, only into the mash.

Are there reasons for this large difference?
 
The forum calculator is set to 'generic styles', i.e. it will give you mineral additions for your source liquor that will suit that particular style of beer and you will get a good result.
Burton water is quite unusual and is associated with hoppy pales that are balanced with the high mineral content so are not harsh tasting.
If you treat the whole of your brew day liquor to match a particular style, the minerals will be carried through to the boil and you do not need to add anything to the wort.

IIRC, Ashbeck has a pretty low mineral content and rather than treat the whole of the brew liquor it is much simpler to just ensure that there is sufficient calcium present by adding gypsum (usually for ales) or calcium chloride (for lagers/pils).
 
Would it be better just to use these?

http://www.brewuk.co.uk/store/burton-wa ... stals.html

I dont want to over complicate matters on my first water adjustment attempt, but I would like to get as close as possible to the profile.

Beersmith 2 is telling me to add to the mash:

20.9g gypsum
12.7g Epsom salts
5g baking soda
4.4g chalk
0.4g calcium chloride

And do I want a Burton profile? I mostly brew hoppy beers....
 
I would have said that that was rather a lot of crystal malt, personally I would use half of that or replace half with carapils. :thumb:
 
I can't speak for Grays but I would guess that he is worried that you will end up with a cloying overly sweet beer with that much crystal. About 5-10% is usual for bitters but and you have a whopping 20% in your recipe. Is trelawny pretty sweet?

Carapils adds mouthfeel and body without adding much sweetness.
 
No it's not sweet, in fact I'd say its on the dry side, quite light but some malty character and tropical/citrus hops.
I'm still trying to learn the qualities of different grains so thanks to you both for the input
 
Maybe use some munich malt (say 500g) then, that should add some malty character without adding sweetness. Cut back your crystal a bit too. You might even cut it out entirely if it is pale and dry.If it is your first go it might be better to keep things simple so that you can tweak it later.

Maybe just use pale malt and munich 90/10 or 80/20. Or pale/munich/crystal say 85/10/5. You'll get a nice beer and you can then think about how you want to change it to get it closer.

Bear in mind I don't know what Trelawny tastes like, so I'm unlikely to get a recipe for it right.
 
Yes my thought are 20% crystal will be cloyingly sweet, that why I said to cut it down but if a lot of crystal was needed for some other reason un be known to me I sugested carapils as it produces less cloying.

Personally I would never use more than 10% crystal in a bitter :thumb:
 

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