What causes the homebrew twang?

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GHW

Landlord.
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
782
Reaction score
777
Hi all
While I'm pleased with my first brew, a festival razorback ipa, it does have a bit of the homebrew twang about it. Reminds me of what my dads homebrew used to taste like.

My question is, what causes it?

As a newbie brewer is there any one thing that can be done to avoid it, or could any number of things be to blame?

I'm not expecting pub quality beer from the off, but if there's areas of technique I can improve that will help it'll save me months of trial and error!

Cheers!
 
The main two culprits are insufficient time allowed for both brewing and conditioning plus too high and or unstable brewing temps imo. Sort those two and your on your way to decent tasting pint.
 
I reckon it was the time then. I didn't write down exactly what did but seem to recall it was only the in the fv for 10 days before I kegged. Maybe a day or two longer.
Will give the one I have on now at least a fortnight. Hopefully that'll make a difference.
 
I leave my beer in primary for three weeks at 19 degrees C and then bottle condition for two months minimum. No twang.
My first brew had a band aid taste; switched to star san from bruclens and no twang since then.
 
I think extract brews always have a slight twang, but I could be wrong and I'm sure people will tell me so. I always use grain now, either all grain or partial mash. all grain beers are mostly good to drink as soon as conditioned, and often are at their best then, especially light coloured ones.

I also wonder if the American homebrew scene developed big hop flavours and strong roasty dark beers to disguise the extract flavour.
 
Hmm, just got a load of starsan in as it seemed to be the bottle sanitiser of choice. Will have to see, the band aid taste sounds different to the homebrew taste I'm thinking of. Definitely not ready for all grain yet! Think next step is more time in primary fv. Though xmas might get in the way of that. Didn't really think that one through!
 
Extract is a big culpruit here, always use the freshest extract you can. Use healthy strong yeast pitched in the correct quantities and fermented in a controlled environment.
 
Let me get the terminology right here. When you guys are talking extract do you mean gloop in a tin, or dried extract? The razorback is gloop, my next kit (brewuk way to Amarillo extract) uses dried extract.
 
Let me get the terminology right here. When you guys are talking extract do you mean gloop in a tin, or dried extract? The razorback is gloop, my next kit (brewuk way to Amarillo extract) uses dried extract.

Both. Liquid "gloop" or dried, they are both malt extract.
 
If you dehydrate, then rehydrate a liquid, then it can't be as good as using fresh wort I suspect. As I have got better at temperature control I have had very few brews with the 'twang' using LME and DME.

I don't know if this is a factor, but I have had some excellent batches of beer from Simply and Bulldog, and they use bags instead of cans. Any experienced Brewers or chemists know if this is a factor? :?:
 
Your dehydrate-rehydrate comment makes sense, like orange juice from concentrate isn't as good as fresh (seems obvious when you put it in those familiar terms).

But given I'm sticking to extract for the mo, seems we come back to temp control and time in Fv as the key variables.

Time in fv is relatively easy to manage. What about temp control? My under the stairs (where fv is) seems to move between 18 and 20 depending on outside temp and whether the heating is on. In terms of the absolute temps that seems ok, but could the fluctuation be a problem, or is that within what most folks would consider Ok?
 
Temperature dicticates how a yeast will work, it has its ideal conditions to where it works at a good pace and makes a clean beer, lower it can slow it down and stress it out or even stop while raising can cause it to work fast but not clean. Brewers manipulate temps to produce flavors, I have a 2 week lager schedule that makes a phenomenal beer.

If its a choice between a constant temp out of that range vs variable temps then go with the constant.

Liquid malt is less forgiving and has a shorter shelf life. Regardless of your method you can make a good beer but that last 10-20% to make it an amazing equates to 90% more work. All depends what your going for :)
 
Your dehydrate-rehydrate comment makes sense, like orange juice from concentrate isn't as good as fresh (seems obvious when you put it in those familiar terms).

But given I'm sticking to extract for the mo, seems we come back to temp control and time in Fv as the key variables.

Time in fv is relatively easy to manage. What about temp control? My under the stairs (where fv is) seems to move between 18 and 20 depending on outside temp and whether the heating is on. In terms of the absolute temps that seems ok, but could the fluctuation be a problem, or is that within what most folks would consider Ok?

Brewpirate probably knows more about this than I do but to me that level of fluctuation doesn't sound like a problem for a generic ale yeast.

It's typical for many homebrew settings (including mine) and if I was a kit manufacturer I would include a yeast that can cope with this.

How long since you kegged your beer? It could be that your off flavour will condition out.

My beer always has a subtle unpleasant background flavour which finally disappears after about 2 months conditioning when it tastes great (IMHO).

Can you describe what you're tasting (the twang)?
 
As BP say temperature is probably THE most important thing. Yeast can provide up to 70% of the flavour of a beer. The first 72 hours is cruicial as if temeperature isn't controlled well the yeast can give off, off flavours

Unfortunately like myself, unless you have a brew fridge it can be very difficult for a home brew to consistantly control temperature. I struggle to maintain a consistant temp. I try not to let things go over 20C for the first week. . My flat is well insulated so I genaerally struggle with the temp being too warm than being too cold, even now in winter. I use a water bath to try to control temps but if I put a 500ml ice bottle in the water bath this can bring the temp of the surrounding water down to 15C/16C but it then doesn't take very long to get back up to about 20C so I have a lot of temp range, which I know isn't good. However this is mitigated by the fact that (I think) thewort itself doesn't go doesn't go though as much temp fluctuations as the water surounding it

I dont think Floccuation won't affect flavour as this happens nearer the end of the yeast life cycle and most of the flavour compounds are produced near the start. The exception to this is if a yeast doesn't flocctuate and you end up with a cloudy yeasty tasting beer
 
When it comes to twang I don't see how flocculation could be the source. You are correct that the yeast in most kits are sufficient but I always goto US-05 when in doubt. Love that yeast.

For those experiencing the twang were you brewing extract if so in what form and was it pre hopped? Also do you have a date on the kit and ingredients?
 
I've never tried this myself but I'n another thread about 'the twang' (we really do need a smilie with a little banjo) a member claimed that skimming the krausen stops it. He stated that out of three brews he made, the two that he had skimmed were twangless

One of you guys (in the interest of science of course) might like to have a go and report back - Would do it myself but am AG
 
(we really do need a smilie with a little banjo)


843661.gif
:lol:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top