What causes the homebrew twang?

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Kegged the razorback on Halloween I think, so been in keg about 6 weeks. Had a few pints off it last night and either I'm getting used to it, or it is steadily improving. Didn't have dates on the kit (or if it did I didn't pay attention. This might explain why some kits seems consistent, they are best sellers so don't stay on the shelf long and extract is fresher?

Having read up since doing it I can see a few areas I can improve my technique, such as ensuring the wort isn't aerated when kegging, time in fv.

Not sure about skimming krausen, sounds like an opportunity for infection?

Might try the speciality yeast when I get my wherry at Xmas. BrewPirate, would that yeast you mention give good results for that kit?

Seems to be something you can do with the brewuk extractkits too, choose s specialty yeast.

This is the kind of improvement im looking for; controlling as much of what happens as possible!
 
Yeastmaster, sorry I'd didn't answer your question on the taste.

The best I can describe it is a slightly flat, stale smell,which fits in with the freshness of the extract theory I guess. You taste it slightly less.

All in all it's perfectly drinkable, but I'm figuring if I know where it comes from I'm better armed to avoid it.

Good discussion though guys, thanks, I'm picking up a lot of good tips!
 
US-05 is a neutral cal ale like yeast that can be used for just about anything, of course may not be the best :) for style. Its dry so cheap and I always have 1-2 packs on hand.
 
Chippy_Tea said:
843661.gif
:lol:
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Nice. :lol:
 
My wherry had an awful twang when I first tried it after being in the bottle for about 3 weeks. Fast forward 2 weeks and it had gone, time is a great healer it seems!
 
Garethhuwwilliams said:
Kegged the razorback on Halloween I think, so been in keg about 6 weeks. Had a few pints off it last night and either I'm getting used to it, or it is steadily improving. Didn't have dates on the kit (or if it did I didn't pay attention. This might explain why some kits seems consistent, they are best sellers so don't stay on the shelf long and extract is fresher?

Having read up since doing it I can see a few areas I can improve my technique, such as ensuring the wort isn't aerated when kegging, time in fv.

Not sure about skimming krausen, sounds like an opportunity for infection?

Might try the speciality yeast when I get my wherry at Xmas. BrewPirate, would that yeast you mention give good results for that kit?

Seems to be something you can do with the brewuk extractkits too, choose s specialty yeast.

This is the kind of improvement im looking for; controlling as much of what happens as possible!
Click to expand...

Your right skimming the yeast is an opportunity for infection but skimming is also an established technique for harvesting yeast - it's known as 'top cropping'

You can choose a 'specialty' yeast for any type of home brewing kits, extract, AG. You just choose they yeast appropriate for the style of beer.

As BP state US-05 can be used in most things it's a 'clean' yeast meaning it has a neutral flavour allowing the hops and the grain flavour to come through. American's are keen on using these clean type of yeasts as they like to have highly hopped beers and these clean yeast allow the hop flavours to come through

You mention your going to use something other than than the kit yeast in a Wherry

You might like to also consider Safale S0-04 (also a dry yeast) which will suit a Wherry. Its gives more fruityness which suites English style dark beer. Some people don't like it as they say it can give a sulphur flavour . I think mauribrew do a good fruity ale yeast that would suit a wherry too.
 
clibit said:
I think extract brews always have a slight twang, but I could be wrong and I'm sure people will tell me so. I always use grain now, either all grain or partial mash. all grain beers are mostly good to drink as soon as conditioned, and often are at their best then, especially light coloured ones.

I also wonder if the American homebrew scene developed big hop flavours and strong roasty dark beers to disguise the extract flavour.
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I live in the States and I think that the use of more hops and darker grain comes from the brewers being more experimental with their brews.I brew with all grain so I can't really comment on extract brews. Try going all grain,you will find that you brew a beer better than store bought or maybe even from the pub ! Check out this Website . Northern Brewer, based in the Mid west. They have a great forum.
Northern Brewer - Home Brewing Supplies and Winemaking ...
www.northernbrewer.com.

Also MidwestSupplies.com - Midwestern Supply‎
Adwww.midwestsupplies.com/‎

If I can be of any help regarding brewing some simple all grain feel free to ask.:hat:

snowdrift vanilla porter.jpg


imagsnowdrift Vanilla porter.jpg


snowdrift porter.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure I got the S0-04 with the way to amarillo kit I've got on. That's smelling as fruity as you like at the moment. any idea what comes with the wherry?
 
Garethhuwwilliams said:
Yeastmaster, sorry I'd didn't answer your question on the taste.

The best I can describe it is a slightly flat, stale smell,which fits in with the freshness of the extract theory I guess. You taste it slightly less.

All in all it's perfectly drinkable, but I'm figuring if I know where it comes from I'm better armed to avoid it.

Good discussion though guys, thanks, I'm picking up a lot of good tips!
Click to expand...

From what you describe it sounds like oxidation, but that shouldn't condition out.

When I bottle I can't get the last bit of beer out of the bucket soI use a jug and funnel - I mark it up on the cap and that last beer always has a flatter, cardboardy taste even though it's by no means undrinkable. I drink it anyway of course!
 
Hi, have you tried skimming the krausen off when it forms? You will have to do this till the ferment stops ,just use a sterile or very clean ladle. I tend to do this nowadays having read some where that this stops the 'twang' and so far it seems to doing the trick! I do also leave my beer to bottle condition for a few months as well which also helps.
 
Thanks Wezil. One of the other guys mentioned this further up the thread too. Sounds like it might be worth a go. It might explain the staler notes if if the krausens been sat there.

What's the technique? Let is build up over days and do the occasional skim, or daily? Daily would offer more chance of spoiling but perhaps cleaner beer?

My way to Amarillo has slowed right down now, after a week, but still has a decent krausen on it. I'm going to need to take the lid off for a gravity reading anyway, do you think it's worth skimming now even though it's been there a week?
 
wezil said:
I do also leave my beer to bottle condition for a few months as well which also helps.
Click to expand...

The question then becomes is it the skimming that's getting rid of the twang or the months of conditioning? Have you tried some of your skimmed beer after just a couple of weeks conditioning to see if its go the twang?
 
So far I've not had any kits produce beer with a twang, including a couple of Razorback brews. I've used a waterbath for the FV since my first brew, so temps have always been controlled down to a degree or two. That's helped by not brewing when I know it's going to be cold (though I now have two heaters to get round that) and not bothering during summer (so I just double up production in the Spring :) )

I have had problems with barrelled beer that has survived drinking to make it to the summer, and the heat definitely affects the taste, which I haven't noticed with the bottles - though that may be down to being stored on low shelves against a north facing wall.
 
Ok, so I've gone for it. Sterilised a ladle and removed most of the krausen. Time will tell...
 
Hi, yes skim daily and yes it still tastes better without the long conditioning (most of the conditioning time is caused by my work patterns rather than a deliberate attempt at improvement!
 
I wonder if 'twang' is caused by underpitching? Lots of kit manufacturers don't give you the correct amount of yeast for the kit's OG which can lead to off flavour being produced as the yeast is being stressed from being made to work too hard
 
brewpirate said:
Extract is a big culpruit here, always use the freshest extract you can. Use healthy strong yeast pitched in the correct quantities and fermented in a controlled environment.
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MyQul said:
I wonder if 'twang' is caused by underpitching? Lots of kit manufacturers don't give you the correct amount of yeast for the kit's OG which can lead to off flavour being produced as the yeast is being stressed from being made to work too hard
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I believe that is a factor as well ;) http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html
 
Now I'm concerned.

So many experienced opinions advising that the supplied kit brew yeast may struggle. For increased ABV I have upped the recommended fermentables with almost every brew I've so far started and I now worry that I may have underpitched..

Can anyone recommend a dependable all purpose dried ale yeast that comes in something like a 50g tub? I have three sachets of Safale S04 but it's pricey in those amounts and I don't know if it's the best available option for IPA type beers with increased abv.

I realize that the answer will depend on exactly what I'm aiming for, but as yet I'm still too new to really know. For now I'm happy to settle for dependable. I can deliberate about optimal once I've learned my **** from my elbow.
 
BruinTuns said:
Now I'm concerned.

So many experienced opinions advising that the supplied kit brew yeast may struggle. For increased ABV I have upped the recommended fermentables with almost every brew I've so far started and I now worry that I may have underpitched..

Can anyone recommend a dependable all purpose dried ale yeast that comes in something like a 50g tub? I have three sachets of Safale S04 but it's pricey in those amounts and I don't know if it's the best available option for IPA type beers with increased abv.

I realize that the answer will depend on exactly what I'm aiming for, but as yet I'm still too new to really know. For now I'm happy to settle for dependable. I can deliberate about optimal once I've learned my **** from my elbow.
Click to expand...

I'm not aware of yeast coming in 50g tubs.

Get yourself down Wilkinsons £1.75 per 11g satchet (cheaper if they have a sale on as they regularly do)

or harvest your own from your FV. Not done it yet myself but seems pretty simple
 

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