Extract Brewing

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Just wondering, do you need a wort chiller for extract brewing? I know you don't boil the full volume so does the cold water added bring the temperature down sufficiently or do you need to help it along? I'm guessing you need to do something but not sure if a chiller will be overkill.
 
I don't think adding cold water to the boiled extract will bring the temps down enough - in fact I'm pretty sure it wont.

I Maxi-BIAB, and in a similar manner to diluting the extract, with Maxi-BIAB you dilute concentrated wort made in your pot in the FV.

In the past the extra dilution water I needed, I added as ice (as much as 7L worth at times, depending on the concentration of my wort) to both cool the wort and dilute. This still wasn't enough to cool my wort down to 19C. It usually got it down to about 60C. I would then use frozen 500ml pet bottles, 5 at a time to get down to 19C.

So yes a wort chiller would be useful. However you can use a builders trug as a water bath instead of a wort cooler as I do. Put your FV in it, fill with cold water, change water when it heats up. It acts like a wort chiller with water chilling from outside the FV rather than inside. Stirring helps loads as well as adding some frozen pet bottles

The pros' its cheaper (£4 from B&Q and I think you don't use as much water), the cons - takes longer to cool the wort, about 1 hours vs 20mins with a wort chiller.
 
The handful of extract brews I've done, I've boiled 6 litres, then dunked the pot in a sink of iced water to bring the temp down to about 50C (which happens pretty quickly for that small a volume). When poured into the FV and topped up to full volume with cold tap water it's then been at perfect pitching temperature.

There's an online calculator somewhere for working out the temperature you end up at if you combine two different volumes of liquid at different temperatures. It works!

Edit: Ah, here it is: www.onlineconversion.com/mixing_water.htm
 
Reading speccy's post (thanks for the calc btw, now bookmaked) I haven't put my volumes.

I have a 20L pot and usually get about 17L in the FV to dilute and cool. I've never worked that one out btw as I continually fill my pot up to about 1/2cm from the lip with sparge runnings right up until about 15mins from flame out - might have something to do with cooler liquid contracting or something, not sure really :wha:
 
I've done about 50 Extract brews and never needed a wort chiller. The temp drops remarkably quickly once off the heat, I usually dunk the pan in a sink of cold water from the tap, change the water a couple of times, then when added to the FV and topped up, it's about right. This time of year, with the mains water so cold, can sometimes top it up without the sink dunk - if it's a bit too warm, just leave it a bit to cool down.
 
I wanted to add this http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/cold-break-extract-vs-full-grain-127504/#post1425846

Definition: Cold break is when protein in boiled wort coagulates and falls out of solution. This happens during the rapid cooling from boiling to fermentation temperature.

Rapid cooling also forms the Cold Break. This is composed of another group of proteins that need to be thermally shocked into precipitating out of the wort. Slow cooling will not affect them. Cold break, or rather the lack of it, is the cause of Chill Haze. When a beer is chilled for drinking, these proteins partially precipitate forming a haze. As the beer warms up, the proteins re-dissolve. Only by rapid chilling from near-boiling to room temperature will the Cold Break proteins permanently precipitate and not cause Chill Haze. Chill haze is usually regarded as a cosmetic problem. You cannot taste it. However, chill haze indicates that there is an appreciable level of cold-break-type protein in the beer, which has been linked to long-term stability problems. Hazy beer tends to become stale sooner than non-hazy beer. The following are a few preferred methods for cooling the wort.
link

Do you need a chiller? No, but if you want clear beer then the fun begins.
 
Interesting - thanks for posting the link.

Most of my Extract brews are ales so never make it near the fridge and are perfectly clear, however I have done the odd extract lager and that's had chill haze when refridgerated. This explains it - thanks! :hat:
 

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