Do I need to bother checking the FG is the same over a couple of days?

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Nial

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After having a couple of batches that tasted 'odd' I like mucking about with things as little as possible.

I've got a batch of Youngs Amber Ale that's been fermenting for two weeks at 20 Deg in a beer fridge.

I added the hops last night.

There's been no airlock activity for > 1 week and there's hardly any sign of any yeast (a few very pin head sized clumps).

It's done isn't it, I don't need to check the gravity a couple of times before bottling.

Or do I ?

Nial
 
It's not really airlock activity that you need to look at, co2 in solution can still make the airlock bubble long after fermentation has finished.
Taking a hydrometer reading is the only way to be sure.
Although two weeks in and the krausen has dropped is a fair indication that fermentation has finished.
Don't substitute this for taking a reading though, you'll still need the reading to work out your abv and to check fermentation hasn't stalled high, giving you the potential for bottle bombs or an under attenuated beer.
 
If you added the hops last night I'd check the gravity in a day or 2, make a note of it then check again 2 days later.....if it's done as you suspect it is then the gravity won't have changed and the hops will have had a decent time for dry hopping and so all should be good for bottling
 
You don't have to, no, but it should give you a good idea if it's finished. You're probably aiming for a max gravity of 1014, more like 1012 or 1010.

If it's around there then I wouldn't bother with a second reading

If it's above 1014 then I'd leave it a bit longer, but 2 weeks is usually long enough especially as it sounds like the yeast has dropped out
 
Yeah take a gravity check. You should have some idea what your terminal gravity will be

The airlock won't tell you if your brew is stuck, a hydrometer will.
 
Garethhuwwilliams said:
You don't have to, no, but it should give you a good idea if it's finished. You're probably aiming for a max gravity of 1014, more like 1012 or 1010.

If it's around there then I wouldn't bother with a second reading

If it's above 1014 then I'd leave it a bit longer, but 2 weeks is usually long enough especially as it sounds like the yeast has dropped out
Click to expand...

IIRC I think the Young Kits aim for dry hopping below 1010 with a final reading around 1008 or below
 
I only ever take 1 reading and sometimes don't even bother with that. I like to set my wort off fermenting, then next day check it's got a krausen, then just leave it alone for a couple of weeks. Then I have a peak - by then the wort looks `dead' and you can see it's starting to clear from the top. I take a gravity reading and if it's below 1015 I just go ahead and bottle it.
I'm always amazed at people who go on and on about sanitation, then they're in and out of their brews at every opportunity checking this, poking that. Oh, they've got an infected brew - now how could that have happened?
 
Fitting a tap to the FV is useful so you can take samples without exposing the brew to nasties
 
Cwrw666 said:
I only ever take 1 reading and sometimes don't even bother with that. I like to set my wort off fermenting, then next day check it's got a krausen, then just leave it alone for a couple of weeks. Then I have a peak - by then the wort looks `dead' and you can see it's starting to clear from the top. I take a gravity reading and if it's below 1015 I just go ahead and bottle it.
I'm always amazed at people who go on and on about sanitation, then they're in and out of their brews at every opportunity checking this, poking that. Oh, they've got an infected brew - now how could that have happened?
Click to expand...
Good advice people, when the wort is clearing its more or less fermented,then take the hydrometer reading for your ABV
 

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