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Hi guys,

Things are going OK so far, and some of the kit has started to arrive (the CO2 regulator, the CO2 distributer manifold and the tap - I am only having one tap for the time being).

However, I have a question about the CO2 line.

I bought this regulator with the grey 0.375" x 0.0250" line connected to the regulator using a JG connector: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CO2-Regul...324357?hash=item35f76c1d05:g:zOwAAOSw5IJWb1tL

However, my CO2 splitter manifold (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-Way-Spl...367850?hash=item4af6cf68ea:g:kPUAAOSwLN5WjReh) has a barb connector type, rather than a JG connector.

How should I best connect the grey line to this barb? Can I just use a suitably sized jubilee clip to connect to it (after soaking in hot water to soften the pipe), or is that not appropriate for this line type/material?

I will then have another 2 connection lines between this manifold and the two keg gas disconnects.

Or... should I get a JG connector which takes the gas pipe down to a more flexible type, for connecting to the barbs?

Finally, I have heard that the beerline length can be important to get the right head when pouring. However, I assume the CO2 inlet can be as short, or as long as I want. Is this a correct assumption?

Thanks

Robbo100
 
Hi Robbo. Beer line length (and internal diameter) is VERY important. I started off with 3/8 beer line and it was very fast pours with big heads.
The important thing is to balance the system so that you have next to no pressure at the tap. This means you can keep the pressure up in the barrel to keep the beer carbonated and have a nice slow pour at the tap.
This is achieved with back pressure on long lengths of quite a small ID tubing. I pretty much achieved it in my kegorator where the taps are on the door by swapping to 5/16 beer line and having 8ft of it as I'm using 15 PSI in my cornys.

This is a hassle if you are tight on space and a waste of beer in the line when cleaning. I have now found these.... They are brilliant! I simply connect in line on the output tube between the keg and the tap and set to the pressure I want it to come out of the tap at. It balances the system and stops massive foamy heads on the beer.

I use the 3/8 at both ends (which are JG connections) and it keeps it all simple with the same size tube across the board. I also only have 2 feet of beeline too!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291493553280?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
I have now found these.... They are brilliant! I simply connect in line on the output tube between the keg and the tap and set to the pressure I want it to come out of the tap at. It balances the system and stops massive foamy heads on the beer.

I use the 3/8 at both ends (which are JG connections) and it keeps it all simple with the same size tube across the board. I also only have 2 feet of beeline too!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291493553280?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I really like the look of that. A bit steep on the price, but a great solution if it works without causing CO2 to release into the line. I only have 1 tap, so switch the disconnect over to a different keg if I want to swap beer. This would remove the hassle when you have different conditioning pressures. In any case, the line balance is never exactly how I would like it; this would make it easy. Maybe something to add on my birthday list (but it's a long way off :-().
 
not cheap but I bought them for convenience and lack of space for beer line. I found that I was spending ages (and using excess beer line) to try and get it to balance properly. With this, it too 20 mins.
The line stays full of beer without any Co2 coming out of suspension
 
Thanks for the tip @spook123_uk

If I understand correctly this will allow me to have a really short line between my Cornelius disconnect and the tap. Is that correct?

I can then set whatever pressure is needed for the right beer carbonation at the regulator, but not spray beer over the house when I open the tap?

I try to measure everything in terms of the amount of money I would save if I were to drink beer from the shop. So, if the above is correct, then I expect you would save about half a pint of beer every time you clean-out the beer lines, or change the barrel. If so, this would 10 pints a year, or £20!

Sounds like a great saving to me!!!

:twisted:
 
Exactly right. I now have mine set to force carbonate up at 15 psi (sometimes 20) on a primary line from the reg. I also have a beer disconnect hooked up to that one so when carbing, the bubbles go down through the beer post and bubble up through the bottom. I then have the secondary part of the reg go to a manifold which distributes to all 3 kegs. That is set to 15 PSI.
I have around 4 feet in total from the reg to the gas disconnect, then around 2 feet (ish) from the beer disconnect, then the flow control device, then another foot or so straight up to the tap. I then set the flow control device to a nice slow ish speed which produces a perfect glass of beer with a nice 1 inch head at 15 psi... without the need for miles of beer line to give the back pressure.

If you wanted to calculate the amount of line needed to produce enough back pressure, there are plenty around.. Just google it.

Here's a pic of the inside of mine so you can see what I'm talking about. Note.. The close up is of a line full of water ready to hook up my keg that's conditioning! I make sure I have enough line so that I can open the door properly with the kegs in place.

IMG_3151.jpg


IMG_3152.jpg
 
Cool.

I just need to check that they do a 3/16 inlet to 3/16 outlet (so that I don't need to buy any other pipes.
 
I think 5/16 is the smallest they do on the inlet. they can do 3/16 on the outlet though. I'd read up on beer line. I've only used 5/16 and 3/8 but if it's 3/16 internal diameter then that might be too small and give too much back pressure. there's a lot of articles out there on the subject! Most tap barbs on the back of the shank tend to be sized for 3/8. I had to use a coupler to 3/8 just before the tap when I was trying 5/16 as it was too small for the barb.
Now I'm at 3/8 across the board.
 
Great info, I was thinking about using these for the reasons you have outlined but wasn't sure what was a good place to put them (keg or faucet end), the pictures of your setup have really helped. Can I ask what size jubilee clips you are using and where you got them, they are stainless steel right?
 
They are stainless. Haven't a clue what size they are. I just bought ones that looked about right from screwfix. I was getting really frustrated with not getting the dispensing right and these little things between the keg and the tap sorted it right out.
They have to be after the keg as you want to keep your keg at pressure to keep the carb level and then restrict it when it's out of the keg st the other end
 
Just to report, that the keggerator is all up and running and I have drawn my first delicious pints of Hopback Summer Elder AG clone.

As with all these things, they seem a little daunting until you get started, but once you have the components all together it is all pretty straight forwards.

My only issue is that I am using the same fridge as a fermentation fridge as I am for the keggerator, so I have had to temporarily remove the keg in lieu of an FV. I hope to get another fridge in the next couple of days (I just need to do it in a way whereby the wife doesn't find out :lol: ).

Thanks to everyone for their help sorting it all out. In particular, the suggestion from @spook123_uk to use an inline restrictor was a great idea. It make it so easy to pour a perfect pint, whatever the pressure in the keg.

Cheers
 
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