Corny Keg Pressure - So much head !

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hamster

hamster

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So my corny keg is set up as follows...



Pressured my beer at 30psi for 2/3 days, drop to 2/3 psi to pour and my beers come out like this...



You can tell the beer is crab'd but the amount of head i get is stupid. I don't get this in bottles...

How do I reduce the head or get a decent pour from the keg ? I much prefer bottles because of this but just don't have the fridge space to keep many. I have 2 kegs to fill and would make keeping beer so much easier...

It's annoying as the beer is great and it's a recipe I made !
 
This often happens if you have a leak on the tap side... alternatively if you change your tap configuration so that you have a 5-6ft beverage line between the keg and the tap you will find that it will pour a lot better and with less head.
 
i had the exact same problem i tried everything but unless you can controle the tmps then a tap is not going to work. how ever there is a solution to this (in a way) here is a youtube vid of what i do (its not me in the vid lol) the only differance is i fill a 2l bottle at a time then put it in fridge

https://youtu.be/CCrfp8ha9Dw
 
dave_walton said:
Is your keg at ambient temperatures? Cornies work better chilled.

The tap your using is not great, you would be better with a beerline 3/8 reduced to 3/16 for a metre or two and back to 3/8 at the tap end to reduce fobbing.

Something like this.


https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=2004

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use this type of tap on some of my cornies and find they work really well (although my cornies are chilled to 10c). Make sure you open it fully when pouring as a partial opening can also create foam. If you still get excess foam with this set up then the beer may be overcarbed. (dont forget to clean out the tap and line when cleaning the keg as it can harbour nasties if left for a long time :-( )

I have one of the direct taps and never got on with it as it created a lot of foam. i use it when cleaning out the cornies now.
 
hamster said:
Thanks all will have to try out the MM tap I think...

I can't regulate the temperature of my kegs although I do have a new set of O rings and valves for it so might put those on as well...

Does 2 sections of 3/8 line make a difference of can you run straight 3/16 line ?

For example

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cornelius...703110&hash=item51fe572cf1:g:mWoAAOSw46BZqs85
Click to expand...

Hi
3/16th should be better than 3/8 for reducing fobbing/foaming you can also get inline reducers that reduce the flow and do help sometimes I have them on all my kegs and they work well for me are about £8 to £10 ish they just fit inbetween your line but make sure they are the right size for your tubing at both in and out (they are JG pushfits normally). I use a party tap with 3/8 to 3/16 and back to 3/8 with the reducer in for my beers that are not in the fridge when the fridges are full and they cope reasonably well at garage temps
 
I don't "get" this use of b*** breaking pressure and then dropping it to a few PSI to serve? Is this a recommendation? Seems to me to be a recipe for creating loads of froth. Having rapidly dropped the pressure the fluid will use any opportunity to accelerate degassing; in the keg (where you can't see it happening), in the pipes (if you were using them), in the tap (lots of restrictions and jiggling about to create froth unless using very "classy" taps), and finally when it hits the (probably warm) glass and finds only atmospheric pressure.

Pubs will use 30-35PSI for serving their most noxious beers, but they have the advantage of using yards of beer line to move the stuff about. Having a directly connected tap doesn't give you that "benefit".

My most carbonated beers (2.3-2.8 volumes of CO2) are set at a pressure (10-15PSI chilled) and left at that pressure for serving. I do use directly connected (disconnect) taps because the "bar" is being revamped. I wouldn't say I get no excess froth, but its at levels I can easily live with.
 

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