I've recently made a Harvey's Sussex bitter clone. It's turned out almost spot on apart from the bitterness. Is it possible to increase the bitterness at this stage or do I just have to bite the bullet and increase buttering hops next time.
Can I increase bitterness after kegging
- Thread starter BarnBrian
- Start date
Help Support The Homebrew Forum:
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2011
- Messages
- 4,116
- Reaction score
- 984
hop oils extracted from the luplin glands can be bought which when mixed into a brew will have an instant impact. I have not tried them myself and have only read the odd report of someone giving em a go (mainly for aroma qualities iirc) and being a bit 'meh' with the outcome.. getting one with a high alpha % should also impact the bitterness too??
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=25
https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-pr...mpaign=tradetracker&affid=121215#.WduW_mhSw_4 (pinched from this thread http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=73834 )
https://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=25
https://www.brouwland.com/en/our-pr...mpaign=tradetracker&affid=121215#.WduW_mhSw_4 (pinched from this thread http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=73834 )
chub1
Junior Member
Would be very interested in your recipie:thumb:
HARVEY'S SUSSEX BEST BITTER/BB
ââ¬Â¦being Seymour's all-grain, research-based clone recipe of Harvey's/Harvey & Son/The Bridge Wharf Brewery - Lewes, East Sussex, UK
6 US Gallons = 5 Imperial Gallons = 22.7 Litres
FERMENTABLES:
88.1% = 7.75 lb = 3.5 kg, Maris Otter Pale Malt
6.8% = .6 lb = 272 g, Dark Crystal Malt (ââ°Ë90-115ðL)
5.1% = .45 lb = 204 g, Flaked Maize (don't skip this essential adjunct, trust me)
MASH ââ°Ë 152.6ðF/67ðC 60 minutes or until converted.
SPARGE ââ°Ë 171ðF/77ðC, collect 7 US gal/5.8 Imperial gal pre-boil, to allow for evaporation
BOIL 60-90 minutes
HOPS:
.9 oz = 26 g, Progress, ââ°Ë6.3% AA, 60 minutes
.9 oz = 26 g, Bramling Cross, ââ°Ë6.5% AA, 30 minutes
.5 oz = 15 g, Fuggles, ââ°Ë5% AA, at flame-out, steep until cooled
.5 oz = 15 g, Goldings, ââ°Ë5% AA, at flame-out, steep until cooled
afterwards, STEEP all hops awhile before chilling, transfer to fermentor, aerate, then pitch.
YEAST:
Harvey's proprietary dual-strain, top-cropped and repitched for over 50 years, possibly available as BrewLab Sussex 1, also used by nearby micros such as Rectory
STATS: (assuming ââ°Ë75% mash efficiency and 76% yeast attenuation)
OG: 1041
FG: 1010
ABV: 4.0%
IBU: 35
COLOUR: 9ðSRM/18ðEBC, light amber
I used S04 yeast
chub1
Junior Member
cheers b.b.:thumb:
I'm using the Sussex 1 strain at the moment. It's a great yeast and contributes so much character. Just to say though that it is only the primary strain that you get from Brew Labs. The secondary strain is possibly a very weird beast called Debaromyces which is apparently similar to Brett but very salt tolerant.
My guess is that the secondary strain contributes to the attenuation as I've only ever managed to get 74% even when mashing at 65ðC.
My guess is that the secondary strain contributes to the attenuation as I've only ever managed to get 74% even when mashing at 65ðC.
On the original point, I would have thought you could boil a few grams for high alpha hops for 30-60 min, strain it and add this to the keg once cooled. This would obviously dilute the beer a little bit but not much.
I was toying with that idea. Will give it a try..
simonh82 is spot on, this would be the only way to get bitterness from a hop, if its added after boil, i.e in the fermenter or keg it would only help with aroma
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2013
- Messages
- 6,312
- Reaction score
- 6,059
Fil has the right idea, there are a lot of breweries who do not add any hops then add the hop oils to finished beer.
