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airymary
Senior Member
Your barrel isn't pressurising properly. I have to assume ('cos you don't say) that it's the 'budget' type clear/white PB, with 2" cap?
I get good results from these barrels if I:
Re-form the cap washer. Remove it, put in a bowl etc. Pour boiled water from the kettle on it. Leave until water has cooled. (This removes marks etc from previous use).
Use a little vaseline. After you prime your beer, replace the washer in the cap, and lightly smear vaseline on it, and on the cap threads.
Don't over-tighten. This distorts the cap washer and prevents sealing.
Check your barrel - it should have pressurised by now, and rush out of the tap. If not, take the cap off, do the above and re-prime. It won't harm the brew (with normal sterilising precautions, of course).
Cheers,
Chris
Agree with Dux, ignore the instructions and leave in the fv for two weeks, you will get better consistency and fewer problems, and get a hydrometer. Try using brew enhancer instead of sugar, or 500g sugar and 500g dried malt extract. Also try adding some hops in the fv, Goldings, Fuggles, first gold, styrian Goldings if you like English ales. If you like American ales then try cascade, centennial, Citra, Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo etc. There are loads of choices, and adding hops to the fv will enhance the hop flavour and aroma without increasing the bitterness.
How much quicker would it go bad? My barrels tend to last 2 or 3 weeks before I have drunk it all and the last two brews seemed fine over that period.
Wow, didn't know it was 3 years since I last brewed but am 'back on the horse' with some Indian pale ale.
This time I am going to prepare better, leave it in the barrel and replace the lid as reading back I probably did tighten it too much.
Question though: was looking at getting a replacement lid with valve so I can put some co2 in but at about ã14 or so is it worth it or should I just get a new 40 pint barrel with a valved lid? I could probably afford to go up to about ã30 in 2 or so weeks but will I get a decent barrel with valve for that price?
This time I am going to prepare better, leave it in the barrel and replace the lid as reading back I probably did tighten it too much.
Question though: was looking at getting a replacement lid with valve so I can put some co2 in but at about ã14 or so is it worth it or should I just get a new 40 pint barrel with a valved lid? I could probably afford to go up to about ã30 in 2 or so weeks but will I get a decent barrel with valve for that price?
ericmark
Regular.
I think I said before I used 2 litre plastic bottles as then only around 12 required and I am lazy. This season (I don't brew in summer) I ran very low on stock. I got kicked out of kitchen however with loads of stock brewed in an old fridge (not turned on) and used a bulb to keep it warm with a controller and after bottling it went straight into the shed. However with low stock only in the shed for 8 weeks and it tasted rotten. What I had to do was pack the fridge with some of the bottles to allow it to condition at 20 degrees C. After conditioning at warmer temperature it was OK.
The point I am making it needs to be in the bottles or other pressure vessel for at least a week at 20 degrees C and as the temperature drops so the time required increases. One can brew in a simple bucket but it does need some control on temperature and bottling. When I was in the kitchen the central heating was not quite warm enough. I had to put body warmers around the fermentor to keep it just that little bit warmer.
In the early days I simply did not realise how important the temperature was. Plus I made errors in measuring. I used a stick on temperature strip, and they are good, but since they are not insulated from ambient air if the brew is at 20 and the room is at 16 then the strip will likely show 18 which gives one a false idea of when brewing stalls, with a temperature probe again on the side of fermentor but since no need to see problem it has a simple sponge as an insulator one gets a more accurate reading and at 17 most kits stall, at 18 they start running, and above 22 likely to get off tastes. You only really have 4 degrees to play with. Lucky for use it is about the same temperature as we like so central heating is around the temperature we want.
As summer arrives then keeping it cool enough can be a problem which is why I stop in the summer. However a brew done a little on the warm side does improve when kept.
You must remember unlike the people doing it from scratch we are using tap water, so if brewed too slow wild yeast can get a hold, those doing if from grain have boiled the water and so using a yeast which will work cooler is OK for them. But for a kit too cold means easy to get wild yeast, once we have started getting alcohol that will stop and bugs but you should be aiming at brewing for 2 to 4 weeks, less than 2 likely it has been too hot more than 4 then likely too cold. So 19 to 20 degrees C.
Most kits say one week, I have never brewed in 7 days, 10 days is the quickest I have ever brewed a brew and that was in the summer and it had an after taste. So 14 days is about the fastest one can brew.
Also the less sugar the better is tastes, but does not keep so well, I tend to use 1.5 kg per kit, but tastes better with just 1 kg and using two kits and no sugar is really good I am told, as one adds more sugar the ABV goes up, but the taste goes down. If you want it stronger better to add less water than more sugar. The amount of sugar you can get away with varies Scottish Heavy will get away with more sugar than Yorkshire Bitter.
I in hind sight and that is easy, would say the fish tank heater is likely the cheapest and easiest way to get a good brew every time. Better if fermentor is an a builders tub and that is filled with some water with the fish tank heater than putting it direct in the brew. I however use an old fridge freezer and an 8W bulb and a temperature controller to hold the brew at 19.5 degrees C.
I would say for a kit CO2 is not required all you need is one tea spoon of sugar in every 2 litre plastic bottle. I find once opened you can reseal and it will last a week. Where with a normal beer bottle once opened you have to drink the whole bottle. Also if you do bottle too early with plastic you can feel the bottle and realise error without waiting for one to go bang. And if you have bottled too early you can simply release pressure and re-seal can't do that with proper beer bottles.
The point I am making it needs to be in the bottles or other pressure vessel for at least a week at 20 degrees C and as the temperature drops so the time required increases. One can brew in a simple bucket but it does need some control on temperature and bottling. When I was in the kitchen the central heating was not quite warm enough. I had to put body warmers around the fermentor to keep it just that little bit warmer.
In the early days I simply did not realise how important the temperature was. Plus I made errors in measuring. I used a stick on temperature strip, and they are good, but since they are not insulated from ambient air if the brew is at 20 and the room is at 16 then the strip will likely show 18 which gives one a false idea of when brewing stalls, with a temperature probe again on the side of fermentor but since no need to see problem it has a simple sponge as an insulator one gets a more accurate reading and at 17 most kits stall, at 18 they start running, and above 22 likely to get off tastes. You only really have 4 degrees to play with. Lucky for use it is about the same temperature as we like so central heating is around the temperature we want.
As summer arrives then keeping it cool enough can be a problem which is why I stop in the summer. However a brew done a little on the warm side does improve when kept.
You must remember unlike the people doing it from scratch we are using tap water, so if brewed too slow wild yeast can get a hold, those doing if from grain have boiled the water and so using a yeast which will work cooler is OK for them. But for a kit too cold means easy to get wild yeast, once we have started getting alcohol that will stop and bugs but you should be aiming at brewing for 2 to 4 weeks, less than 2 likely it has been too hot more than 4 then likely too cold. So 19 to 20 degrees C.
Most kits say one week, I have never brewed in 7 days, 10 days is the quickest I have ever brewed a brew and that was in the summer and it had an after taste. So 14 days is about the fastest one can brew.
Also the less sugar the better is tastes, but does not keep so well, I tend to use 1.5 kg per kit, but tastes better with just 1 kg and using two kits and no sugar is really good I am told, as one adds more sugar the ABV goes up, but the taste goes down. If you want it stronger better to add less water than more sugar. The amount of sugar you can get away with varies Scottish Heavy will get away with more sugar than Yorkshire Bitter.
I in hind sight and that is easy, would say the fish tank heater is likely the cheapest and easiest way to get a good brew every time. Better if fermentor is an a builders tub and that is filled with some water with the fish tank heater than putting it direct in the brew. I however use an old fridge freezer and an 8W bulb and a temperature controller to hold the brew at 19.5 degrees C.
I would say for a kit CO2 is not required all you need is one tea spoon of sugar in every 2 litre plastic bottle. I find once opened you can reseal and it will last a week. Where with a normal beer bottle once opened you have to drink the whole bottle. Also if you do bottle too early with plastic you can feel the bottle and realise error without waiting for one to go bang. And if you have bottled too early you can simply release pressure and re-seal can't do that with proper beer bottles.
For conditioning I bottle condition, and my advice is as follows:
Bulmers bottles work an absolute treat and can be sourced either free from your local friendly boozer, or very cheap from your local supermarket (You just need to drink the contents). The labels come off relatively easily after an overnight soak. They hold exactly a pint with an inch of headspace.
For capping, buy a bench capper, they're about ã30 but make capping an absolute breeze.
For bottling, I highly recommend a racking cane and a bottling wand, makes the process clean and easy!
I prefer bottles, they store well and you dont need a cellar / separate fridge to chill a couple of pints before drinking, but I know a lot of people prefer kegs because cleaning and sterilising 40 bottles prior to bottling can be a bit of a chore!
Bulmers bottles work an absolute treat and can be sourced either free from your local friendly boozer, or very cheap from your local supermarket (You just need to drink the contents). The labels come off relatively easily after an overnight soak. They hold exactly a pint with an inch of headspace.
For capping, buy a bench capper, they're about ã30 but make capping an absolute breeze.
For bottling, I highly recommend a racking cane and a bottling wand, makes the process clean and easy!
I prefer bottles, they store well and you dont need a cellar / separate fridge to chill a couple of pints before drinking, but I know a lot of people prefer kegs because cleaning and sterilising 40 bottles prior to bottling can be a bit of a chore!
Right, so situation is I fermented for just over 2 weeks then transferred to pressure barrel. I bought a new 2" cap without Co2 injector, lubricated with a little vaseline and its now been in that for just under 2 weeks.
So key question ... when can I drink it? I'll be drinking direct from the barrel then bottling into 2 litre plastic when the pressure drops but not a heavy drinker so would expect it to last me a few weeks. Is 2 weeks after fermenting long enough?
For the fementing I used the sugar substitute (forgot what it was called but was specific for ale) and I dissolved some suger in boiling water and put that in the pressure barrel before transfer.
So key question ... when can I drink it? I'll be drinking direct from the barrel then bottling into 2 litre plastic when the pressure drops but not a heavy drinker so would expect it to last me a few weeks. Is 2 weeks after fermenting long enough?
For the fementing I used the sugar substitute (forgot what it was called but was specific for ale) and I dissolved some suger in boiling water and put that in the pressure barrel before transfer.
Update: Tried it tonight and it has a bitter taste, in addition it is dribbling out of the pressure tank but if I shake the tank it comes out.
Thinking back when I siphoned it in from the fermenter it overflowed so suppose am asking:
- Will time fix the bitter taste?
- Will time also fix the flow?
Thanks in advance ... guess I am on the cans tonight then.
Thinking back when I siphoned it in from the fermenter it overflowed so suppose am asking:
- Will time fix the bitter taste?
- Will time also fix the flow?
Thanks in advance ... guess I am on the cans tonight then.
ericmark
Regular.
I have found both time and temperature can cure the bitter taste. The fact you have no pressure seems to point to secondary fermentation has not taken place, as to why there are many reasons either forgot to add the extra sugar or too cold being main reasons. I found storing in the shed was too cold to secondary ferment and I now use the freezer compartment of my brewing fridge/freezer to put the bottles in maintained at 20úC for two weeks before moving to shed at least in the winter. My fridge/freezer is only used as an insulated box it is not plugged in there is a heater and controller in both fridge and freezer to control temperature.
airymary
Senior Member
1 Maybe
2 No
If you're able to pour after shaking the beer, it suggests that there's CO2 in solution from secondary fermentation. Shaking is taking it out of solution, and producing enough pressure to let the beer pour. Having to do this suggests that the barrel hasn't sealed properly. The bitter taste is likely to be from disturbing the sediment from secondary fermentation by shaking the barrel.
As you've no source of CO2 other than priming, I suggest you re-prime the beer, and ensure your barrel seals. Don't wait so long to check - test the pressure simply by opening the tap after a day or 2. If beer gushes out, you have pressure. If not, re-seal the barrel cap. Leave for a week for secondary fermentation to finish, and the sediment to clear. Don't disturb the sediment.
Cheers,
Chris
Well I resealed the cap then tried a couple days later. It worked better (tumbler of beer poured out) but then it dribbled 
Doesn't taste as bad though.
So question: Is the brew fooked? Whats the best thing to do?
Doesn't taste as bad though.So question: Is the brew fooked? Whats the best thing to do?
airymary
Senior Member
As previuos post - re-prime, and ensure the lid seals. Brew should be fine
Ok thanks, including the initial transfer to the barrel this will be the 3rd time I've sealed the lid so how many times should I do it and just accept them brew as it is?
Halleluyah ... poured 1/2 pint tonight with a proper head and still flowing. Taste is nowhere near as sharp and not best warm but will be leaving it a week as on holiday for Easter. Will definately use previous suggestion of putting glass in freeer first though
Massive thanks ... I know this is beyond basic for everyone but do appreciate the help.
Massive thanks ... I know this is beyond basic for everyone but do appreciate the help.
airymary
Senior Member
Glad you got there in the end. You can get good results from those barrels, but they're temperamental.
When I take a glass from the freezer, I push it into a can cooler - something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collapsib...hash=item1e9b270ea7:m:mAZj55euptV5RukFN9mGCdA
Needs a bit of force, but mine haven't split yet! They direct the chill into the beer, not out to atmosphere, and stop your fingers freezing to the glass! It's the opposite to a pub pint - the beer gets colder as it goes down :smile:.
Cheers,
Chris
When I take a glass from the freezer, I push it into a can cooler - something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collapsib...hash=item1e9b270ea7:m:mAZj55euptV5RukFN9mGCdA
Needs a bit of force, but mine haven't split yet! They direct the chill into the beer, not out to atmosphere, and stop your fingers freezing to the glass! It's the opposite to a pub pint - the beer gets colder as it goes down :smile:.
Cheers,
Chris
Just about to start my Golden Ale Kit from wilkos this weekend.
I know this goes against the grain, but how do I brew a slightly weaker beer? (Ideally about 3.8 percent)
Load of advice online for making a stronger ale but none about how to reduce the ABV of the end beer.
As a new beer maker I would appreciate your wisdom. :thumb:
I know this goes against the grain, but how do I brew a slightly weaker beer? (Ideally about 3.8 percent)
Load of advice online for making a stronger ale but none about how to reduce the ABV of the end beer.
As a new beer maker I would appreciate your wisdom. :thumb:
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