3rd fermentation instead of using CO2 injector?

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Freddy

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Hi All,

my apologies if this has been posted already, I searched for it but couldn't find a similar post. I am new to home brewing (about 8 month) and used to bottle beers so far.

I recently got a pressure barrel and have a brew that is more than ready to be transferred to 2nd fermentation (I used a Geordie Winter Warmer brew kit). Now I keep reading that I need a CO2 injector, as I will loose pressure and won't be able to draw beer from it half way through. However, I won't be able to get the injector in time and really want to avoid bottling.

So I though of using the pressure barrel and once drawing beer becomes impossible I'll open the lid and add some more priming sugar to re-start CO2 production and wait until there is enough pressure.

I would like to know what you think about it, is it a foolish idea or could it work?

many thanks

Fred
 
How long will it take you to get an injector? You could transfer it to your barrel and let the priming sugar do its thing (a couple of weeks at the same temperature as fermentation, a couple of weeks somewhere cooler). When you get your valved lid, just swap it over?
 
I just re-prime mine with more sugar and I find they are back up to working pressure in about two days no problem.

I use 85gm of table sugar on the first prime and about 50gm on the second prime, or less if it is well down the barrel. Lately in the warm weather I have been getting almost to the bottom of the barrel without re-priming. I don't draw off loads at a time - maybe a couple of pints a day and this works for me. I also have more than one barrel on the go at a time, so if I have a barrel resting for a re-prime, I just drink a different beer.

You don't need to wait a fortnight either. Mine will re-pressurise in my garage in about two days. I suppose the average temperature in there is about 15C. The beer may look a little hazy for a few days but to be honest, I can't taste the difference - its beer - I drink it. This is how old time inn keepers have been handling their beer and ale for hundreds of years - long before anybody thought of putting co2 in a cylinder. You have 'live beer'. It loves sugar. It's simple; its cheap and it works.

One important thing is that you never want to wait until the barrel has lost all its pressure. If you do, you can get air glugging back through the tap and this can turn the beer stale. As soon as mine stops coming out with decent pressure, I stop. Boil a bit of water and add it to a jug with the sugar in it. Then I open the cap, pour in the hot syrup I have made with the sugar and seal it up again. You'll be amazed how quickly it comes back on stream.

Check out my thread on keeping your cap washer's in good nick. I've just had a series of failed rubber washers, but you can re-form them so they work again.
 
My idea of the fortnight was conditioning rather than the time it would take to re-prime mate - I always go by 2 + 2 + 2 when I bottle, so I was just making the point there was plenty of time to get an injector?
 
My idea of the fortnight was conditioning rather than the time it would take to re-prime mate - I always go by 2 + 2 + 2 when I bottle, so I was just making the point there was plenty of time to get an injector?

Yes - sorry - you are right of course. He can get an injector and some people like them. I try to keep to the 2+2+2 as well. Much clearer beer and better taste (if you can wait - which has been a problem for me especially when I was just starting out. :) )
 
Hi Tony & ManseMasher,

thank you for the swift replies. I think the beer will go in the barrel tonight and then I'll probably try Tony's approach just for fun. But I'll get a CO2 injector in the long run, as I don't have space to run several barrels at the same time.

I'll let you know here how it went.

thanks again

Fred
 
Hi Tony & ManseMasher,

thank you for the swift replies. I think the beer will go in the barrel tonight and then I'll probably try Tony's approach just for fun. But I'll get a CO2 injector in the long run, as I don't have space to run several barrels at the same time.

I'll let you know here how it went.

thanks again

Fred

I know your barrel is new and you will have a good new top cap washer in it, but check out this thread I started today about looking after the washers. they can get distorted and lose all the gas when they've been used a couple or three times. Also, even with a new cap and washer do check that the washer is nicely seated in its groove in the top cap.

Also - give an slight twist on the tap body to see it is properly seated. There are often small and annoying leaks at the tap where the body isn't quite snug. NOT really gorilla tight - just snugged up by hand. The tap itself can swivel around on the tap body, so don't worry if it isn't pointing quite downwards when you have tightened the tap. Just swivel the tap around at the end.

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=55786
 
I know your barrel is new and you will have a good new top cap washer in it, but check out this thread I started today about looking after the washers. they can get distorted and lose all the gas when they've been used a couple or three times. Also, even with a new cap and washer do check that the washer is nicely seated in its groove in the top cap.

Also - give an slight twist on the tap body to see it is properly seated. There are often small and annoying leaks at the tap where the body isn't quite snug. NOT really gorilla tight - just snugged up by hand. The tap itself can swivel around on the tap body, so don't worry if it isn't pointing quite downwards when you have tightened the tap. Just swivel the tap around at the end.

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=55786


Thanks, I checked the post and will bear it in mind on my next brew. I have used Vaseline to lubricate the washers. Got this advice from youtube.

Fingers crossed this one goes well. I would prefer having the beer in bottles, but its just such a pain with sterilising everything.
 
When the barrels work (which is most of the time if maintained properly) they are great. It is so easy just to put some priming syrup into a clean barrel and then to syphon right out of the FV and button up the cap. Three or four weeks later, you are drinking great beer and when they are empty, it is easy as anything to take them in the garden, clean the yeast out with a hose and give it a good rinse out and then put some steriliser in to keep in nice for the next use. Bottles as you say are a lot of work. I have a 23 litre wheat beer to bottle in the next couple of days, not looking forward to the boring job.
 
Repriming works a treat, i had to do it with my Amber ale after that barrel cap came with a leaky co2 valve (see tony's thread).
Wee bit annoyed i rushed out for co2 when it wasn't holding pressure, on the plus side, i left it for an extra week or two (than i would've) after repriming and have a wonderfully clear pint.
 
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