My only worry is that the tap isn't a snug fit on the tube. I think I'm just going to have to have a go-fortune favours the brave!
New Year-Upgrade to A.G. Boilers and Tuns
- Thread starter Joeyriles
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1/2" or 12.5mm id silicone tube is a nice snug fit on 15mm copper tube...
smaller tube can be built up with a wrap of ptfe tape.
smaller tube can be built up with a wrap of ptfe tape.
It's not the copper that worries me, it's the tap!
It fits the silicone...just. I worry that the pressure of 20+ litres of hot wort will force it off!
It fits the silicone...just. I worry that the pressure of 20+ litres of hot wort will force it off!
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jubilee clip?? just make sure its 100% stainless steel including the grubscrew...
or a cablke tire pulled very taught with pliers,,
cable tie !!! edit to correct typo..
or a cablke tire pulled very taught with pliers,,
cable tie !!! edit to correct typo..
Ah feck, went to screwfix and got the tank connector and (just like you said, Fil, the pipe won't go all the way through. I've also bought a ball valve tap but am unsure of how to fix it so it doesn't slide about.
Double feck, I've just spent the best part of an hour trying to file the pipe-stop and it still won't go through. Any suggestions for someone who is drill-less?
CreweBrewer
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Don't panic!
This is what I did with mine...
I just battered it smaller with a little percussive maintenance, whilst remembering that there's a tap on the other side of the tank connector. The gaps left by the "modification" are smaller than the ones with the manifold so no unwanted barley has passed through.
Dave
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hang on in there filling it out will take time probably 2-3 hours.. do it over a newspaper in your lap in front of the telly with a few beers :whistle:
an alternative with a untouched tank connector would be to use 10mm tube with a bit of silicone tube (3/8" id) over the end shoved in the back end of the tank connector.... pm me if you need an inch or 2 of silicone tube for the job, i have some kicking about with a 1mm wall..
an alternative with a untouched tank connector would be to use 10mm tube with a bit of silicone tube (3/8" id) over the end shoved in the back end of the tank connector.... pm me if you need an inch or 2 of silicone tube for the job, i have some kicking about with a 1mm wall..
Thanks gents, I've gotten some funny looks from the missus as I sit with my back turned, furiously filing away with the tank connector in my lap...think she was more concerned about the noise.
Good idea with the tubing/bashing the copper in with some percussive maintenance (en Anglais, monseur?) Fil, I'd appreciate the help. Where are you based?
Good idea with the tubing/bashing the copper in with some percussive maintenance (en Anglais, monseur?) Fil, I'd appreciate the help. Where are you based?
CreweBrewer
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Give it a smackin' with a hammer!
The worry I have with filing out that pipestop on the tank connector is you're at the mercy of your own handy work; you've now breached that seal between the inner and outer walls of your mashtun. My understanding of this method is if you're going to file it out to run a 15mm pipe straight through, then why bother with the tank coupler at all...? EDIT - the compression fit on the tap side maybe??
Dave
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Pm sent..
CrewBrewer, the tank connector offers a cheap flange fitting for an easy seal in the wall And the compression fitting for the seal on the tube.
using plumbers lead free solder to fix/seal tube in the tank connector (or jbweld??) can let you use the 1/2" thread for the fixing of fittings directly too..
so tube sticking out the 'back' and thread to face the 'front'
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getting there
something like this perhaps
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Lever-Ballvalve-15mm/p/420199
hope u have added support for the cavity if attempting to seal between the 2 skins?? i would have chopped a bigger hole in the external skin to make a seal on the inner skin alone, the void can be back filled with caulk to add support once the seal has been established
something like this perhaps
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Lever-Ballvalve-15mm/p/420199
hope u have added support for the cavity if attempting to seal between the 2 skins?? i would have chopped a bigger hole in the external skin to make a seal on the inner skin alone, the void can be back filled with caulk to add support once the seal has been established
Don't worry, gents. I think I've sorted it-tried brimming it earlier and the tap/connector didn't leak!
It still looks craps, and I've not tried it with mash level temperature...I won't get to brew this weekend but I feel that step closer for next Saturday.
It still looks craps, and I've not tried it with mash level temperature...I won't get to brew this weekend but I feel that step closer for next Saturday.
So my MT doesn't leak, hooray!
My boiler, which I parted with a lot of money from a well-reputed brew site, does. :shock:
Only a tiny droplet or so from under the washer near the tap every few seconds, but enough to cause a problem. I phoned them and they suggested tightening it slightly with an adjustable spanner, if not then it could 'seal itself' when the water gets up to mash/boiling point.
Am I right to be skeptical? I know that the mass of the water will change when hot but I would have thought it would have leaked just the same.
My boiler, which I parted with a lot of money from a well-reputed brew site, does. :shock:
Only a tiny droplet or so from under the washer near the tap every few seconds, but enough to cause a problem. I phoned them and they suggested tightening it slightly with an adjustable spanner, if not then it could 'seal itself' when the water gets up to mash/boiling point.
Am I right to be skeptical? I know that the mass of the water will change when hot but I would have thought it would have leaked just the same.
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dismantle and wrap up with ptfe and refit 
if necessary silicone baking sheet/cupcake moulds are made from a food/safe heat safe material which is easy to cut with scissirs into a soft washer to help seal too.
if necessary silicone baking sheet/cupcake moulds are made from a food/safe heat safe material which is easy to cut with scissirs into a soft washer to help seal too.
A quick tweak and all is well (tee hee). Did a 'dry' run where I boiled up some water and transferred it to the mash tun. All seemed to go well, roll on brew day!
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I started brewing at 6pm and it was nearly 10 when I got done!
Ended up doing an impromptu fly sparge rather than batch sparging as planned.
Came out with 20 litres at 1050 OG. Not bad for a first effort.
I started brewing at 6pm and it was nearly 10 when I got done!
Ended up doing an impromptu fly sparge rather than batch sparging as planned.
Came out with 20 litres at 1050 OG. Not bad for a first effort.
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Nice one..
luv it when a plan comes together.. :
luv it when a plan comes together.. :
It's fermenting away in the FV now, smells gorgeous and I'm hoping that it tastes just as good! If it tastes even half as good as TT Landlord then I'll be a happy bunny.
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