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Gunge

Gunge

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My ancient Scenic has reached the end of it's road, so I bought me a 2005 Mazda 6 in really good nick. Had it five days and I cannot find any faults apart from the small issues I knew about upon purchase. They were: poor handbrake - fixed. Boot that wouldn't open - fixed. Driver's window that had a mind of it's own - fixed. But the last remaining niggle has me stumped... The driver's door doesn't respond to the key fob. It locks okay with the key so no big deal, and the other doors and boot operate as they should. Any ideas before I start pulling the door card off for a look-see? If there's a simple fix that I'm overlooking I'd rather avoid that. Any and all ideas will be considered and gratefully received, thank you!
 
Gunge said:
My ancient Scenic has reached the end of it's road, so I bought me a 2005 Mazda 6 in really good nick. Had it five days and I cannot find any faults apart from the small issues I knew about upon purchase. They were: poor handbrake - fixed. Boot that wouldn't open - fixed. Driver's window that had a mind of it's own - fixed. But the last remaining niggle has me stumped... The driver's door doesn't respond to the key fob. It locks okay with the key so no big deal, and the other doors and boot operate as they should. Any ideas before I start pulling the door card off for a look-see? If there's a simple fix that I'm overlooking I'd rather avoid that. Any and all ideas will be considered and gratefully received, thank you!
Click to expand...

battery in the key fob? my cx-5 key fob battery lasted 18 months our daihastu key fob has the original battery 12 years on :eek:
 
Gunge said:
My ancient Scenic has reached the end of it's road, so I bought me a 2005 Mazda 6 in really good nick. Had it five days and I cannot find any faults apart from the small issues I knew about upon purchase. They were: poor handbrake - fixed. Boot that wouldn't open - fixed. Driver's window that had a mind of it's own - fixed. But the last remaining niggle has me stumped... The driver's door doesn't respond to the key fob. It locks okay with the key so no big deal, and the other doors and boot operate as they should. Any ideas before I start pulling the door card off for a look-see? If there's a simple fix that I'm overlooking I'd rather avoid that. Any and all ideas will be considered and gratefully received, thank you!
Click to expand...
I reckon you have some GUNGE in there. A quick squirt of WD40 may sort it out
 
Also, check:

o The fuses to make sure that one isn't blown somewhere.

o Driver's stuff such as handbrake switch, gear position, lights etc. (Even my ancient Transit won't let me lock the driver's door from the outside without a key.)

o Daft stuff like child locks. (The body will be made for LH and RH drive. Again, on the old Transit I nearly gave myself a hernia trying to open the sliding door from the inside and then found out that I had accidentally clicked the little switch to child-proof the door.)

If it was mine, I could almost guarantee that it was a 10p problem that was going to cost me a hundred quid to fix! :doh:
 
Sounds like the motor is either seized or just packed in. Can you hear it trying to work when you use the fob? Is far as i remember you don't have to take the whole door card off to get to the mechanism.
 
Thanks for the replies so far - all are most appreciated and will all be followed up, but not tonight! I can rule out the fob battery - a new one made no difference. I know whatever it is, I can fix myself - just looking for ideas before I get too involved needlessly. Dutto I know you are right - a cheap component that someone would want a fortune to fit, or I'm doing something wrong re operation of the locking system and I'm gonna feel daft when I find out what!
 
as the door been changed from another car if so it wont work with your fob
 
I think you are going to have to pull it apart and replace the motor - remember you need the one with the extra set of contacts.

I also advise not drinking when driving - you are far too likely to spill your beer.
 
Gunge said:
Thanks for the replies so far - all are most appreciated and will all be followed up, but not tonight! I can rule out the fob battery - a new one made no difference. I know whatever it is, I can fix myself - just looking for ideas before I get too involved needlessly. Dutto I know you are right - a cheap component that someone would want a fortune to fit, or I'm doing something wrong re operation of the locking system and I'm gonna feel daft when I find out what!
Click to expand...

If the fob locks the other doors then of course it wouldn't be the key fob battery.

If turning the key in the drivers door opens all the other doors that rules out a central locking fuse as one fuse normally covers all the doors.

you could disconnect the battery in the engine compartment and try and open/close drivers door with key. That rules out the lock and this points to the motor for that door. Switching everything off then back on often works in IT so maybe when you re-connect the battery the mechanism will reset.
 
Already been said but I would check if the car has been in an accident or similar and had a replacement door from another car. Without a factory fit it won't sync to the key.
 
Don't know if it helps but my 2005 Mazda 3 sometimes did that. I used to have to 'reset' it by locking then unlocking the driver's door with the key then putting the key in the ignition and turning so that the radio came on but not starting the engine. It only used to happen every 3 or 4 years not a regular thing. Don't know why that worked but the mechanic at the garage told me to do it!
 
The cheapest solution to this is to walk towards the drivers side of the car and do a Dukes of Hazard slide over the bonnet and then slip in through the passenger door. Not only will you save money on a fix, you look cool (cough) and will feel like you gonna meet Daisy Duke soon.
 
The replies to this Thread reminded me of the lady that called out the RAC on the basis that her brand new Mini had broken down.

She explained "It started okay and it ran fine for about fifteen minutes before starting to go "chug-chug" and then it stopped.

The RAC man got into the Mini and started it up. It ran just fine so he gave it a few revs, left the engine running and stepped out of the car to hand it back to the woman.

He then had to watch whilst she adjusted her seat, adjusted the mirror, pulled the choke button out, hung her handbag on it and listen to the engine go "chug-chug" before it stopped!! :whistle:
 
Gunge said:
My ancient Scenic has reached the end of it's road, so I bought me a 2005 Mazda 6 in really good nick. Had it five days and I cannot find any faults apart from the small issues I knew about upon purchase. They were: poor handbrake - fixed. Boot that wouldn't open - fixed. Driver's window that had a mind of it's own - fixed. But the last remaining niggle has me stumped... The driver's door doesn't respond to the key fob. It locks okay with the key so no big deal, and the other doors and boot operate as they should. Any ideas before I start pulling the door card off for a look-see? If there's a simple fix that I'm overlooking I'd rather avoid that. Any and all ideas will be considered and gratefully received, thank you!
Click to expand...
I had a similar problem and found two of the wires were broken beside the driver seat,under the trim, sorry,should have said it was a Vauxhall though,popped off plastic, recrimped cables and hey ho
Good luck
 
Great suggestions thank you! Will try them at the weekend until i do fix it - except the dukes of hazzard thing, I'm too big.
 
Dutto said:
The replies to this Thread reminded me of the lady that called out the RAC on the basis that her brand new Mini had broken down.

She explained "It started okay and it ran fine for about fifteen minutes before starting to go "chug-chug" and then it stopped.

The RAC man got into the Mini and started it up. It ran just fine so he gave it a few revs, left the engine running and stepped out of the car to hand it back to the woman.

He then had to watch whilst she adjusted her seat, adjusted the mirror, pulled the choke button out, hung her handbag on it and listen to the engine go "chug-chug" before it stopped!! :whistle:
Click to expand...

Dutto, you may need to explain to our younger members what a choke WAS.

on my Triumph Toledo it kept retracting especially on a bad road then stopping at a junction the engine just stopped. Maybe that's where the modern stop-start technology got the idea from :lol:
 
Chippy_Tea said:
And a Coil, Distributor Cap, Points, plug gap (setting) Suppressor (stop radio interference) :lol:

Those were the days. :-?
Click to expand...
....plus column gear change so you could fit a bench seat in the front, a headlight dipswitch on the floor, and 'trafficators'.
And if you had a motorbike, a kick start lever, advance-retard lever, and a tickler on the carb....
 
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