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Old 08-01-2017, 02:40 PM   #11
jaquiss2005
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Thanks all - ordered from Bridgewater Brewing with discount


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Old 08-01-2017, 03:52 PM   #12
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If you're happy to wait a week there is free delivery and 20% off on this site - http://www.bridgewaterbrewing.co.uk/

Can get all the fittings you need. Read the homepage.
If I wanted to convert a cool box to a mashtun would I need anything more than the "3 piece weldless tap kit with 1/2 hosetail take off" (£18.13)?

I know I'll need a manifold and some tubing, but in terms of plugging the hole I drill with a tap, does this thing cover it? (caveat: useless @ DIY/plumbing )


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Old 08-01-2017, 06:07 PM   #13
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for cheap bulkhead connections to pot/tun walls the 15mm compression Tank connector in brass is the cheapest option providing a nice wide sealing flange and 1/2" bsp male thread compatible for connecting to.

for a fully SS option ebay some M20 SS washers (10 pack) and a 1/2" bsp hex nipple
https://www.swiss-fittings.com/media...2/1/211500.jpg https://www.swiss-fittings.com/en/se...6qPBoCpw3w_wcB

and a 1/2" SS locknut http://www.nero.co.uk/Catalogue/150L...OvnhoCherw_wcB

and a few rolls of ptfe tape..

#1 wrap ptfe round the thread of one side of the hex nipple concentrating on the hilt against the hex.
#2 select a ss M20 washer that fits snugly but not fully up the ptfe wrap to the hilt, there are some minor variances in tollerances so check a few washers for best fit.

#3 a sealing washer can be a 1" silicone oring, or a diy cut silicone baking sheet washer or a good wrap of ptfe round the washer..

#4 then brace the washer and hex against the outside of the hole, and place another washer inside the pot before the nut and tighten to seal. the tapered thread may require a thicker wrap of tape or extra washers inside to create the thrust,, no 2 are exactly the same..
these days i tend to use ptfe to wrap my washers for a seal without any silicone but here is a pic of a connections using a baking sheet washers in my brewkettle, Ive used 1/2" elbow fittings instead of lock nuts to secure to minimise deadspace with an internal siphon..





ps sites ive linked to for bits are just what google chucked up when i was looking for ilustrating pics, so not places ive bought from, i used bes.co.uk for a bulk buy of ss 1/2 fittings for my build to minimise pnp costs..
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:41 PM   #14
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for cheap bulkhead connections to pot/tun walls the 15mm compression Tank connector in brass is the cheapest option providing a nice wide sealing flange and 1/2" bsp male thread compatible for connecting to.

for a fully SS option ebay some M20 SS washers (10 pack) and a 1/2" bsp hex nipple
https://www.swiss-fittings.com/media...2/1/211500.jpg https://www.swiss-fittings.com/en/se...6qPBoCpw3w_wcB

and a 1/2" SS locknut http://www.nero.co.uk/Catalogue/150L...OvnhoCherw_wcB

and a few rolls of ptfe tape..

#1 wrap ptfe round the thread of one side of the hex nipple concentrating on the hilt against the hex.
#2 select a ss M20 washer that fits snugly but not fully up the ptfe wrap to the hilt, there are some minor variances in tollerances so check a few washers for best fit.

#3 a sealing washer can be a 1" silicone oring, or a diy cut silicone baking sheet washer or a good wrap of ptfe round the washer..

#4 then brace the washer and hex against the outside of the hole, and place another washer inside the pot before the nut and tighten to seal. the tapered thread may require a thicker wrap of tape or extra washers inside to create the thrust,, no 2 are exactly the same..
these days i tend to use ptfe to wrap my washers for a seal without any silicone but here is a pic of a connections using a baking sheet washers in my brewkettle, Ive used 1/2" elbow fittings instead of lock nuts to secure to minimise deadspace with an internal siphon..





ps sites ive linked to for bits are just what google chucked up when i was looking for ilustrating pics, so not places ive bought from, i used bes.co.uk for a bulk buy of ss 1/2 fittings for my build to minimise pnp costs..
Thanks for the photos. At what height should a tap be for a 32l pot. Also the thermowell?
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:06 PM   #15
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positioning of fittings afaik is totally up to you. and there are factors to be considered that depend on how you intend to brew with the equipment. for example i brew with a hop spider And have the capacity to whirlpool should i choose to brew with free hops, I also chill via a cfc. So i expect little other than a little hot break material to settle on my kettle base close to the tap pick up which can therefore hover 1mm or so above the pot base and provide me with a minimal deadspace.

While i have a temperature probe attached to my kettle thats more a case of circumstance as design i bought my pots 2nd hand and they had the 2 holes cut that i used for temp probe and recirc return valve when i got em..
and i fitted a probe rather than a blank in the kettle though its never used, bith my hlt and kettle are identicle in build. ..

probe position in a hlt ?? well as low as possible as to be able to measure the temperature of the smallest volume of liquor you will need. again my hole was precut.. i would have chosen to mount lower

But unless the liquor is under continual movement a hlt left @ target temp under control of either a pid or even a simple on off controller will end up spot on target temp at the position of the probe, But warmer above and cooler below, and the gradient can be as wide as 5c or more if left longer static @ target for longer than 30 mins..

So if too low you run the risk of over heating the bulk of the liquor which if treated with ams or other water enhancing salts may not benefit from a tap water addition to cool down.

hence the recirc return for the hlt in my case.. keep the liquor moving and all at target temp. tho u dont Need a pump n recirc for this a spoon n stir do just as well
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Old 11-01-2017, 02:43 PM   #16
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Thanks all - ordered from Bridgewater Brewing with discount
Just in case you didn't know you will need a Stainless Steel full coupling if you want to attatch a bazooka filter to it.

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Old 21-01-2017, 04:41 PM   #17
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Got one of the 3 piece weld less tap kits from Bridgewater Brewing, fits perfectly, but can't get the tap to budge. Seems to be locked in open position. Have only used basic ball valves before. Am I missing something simple to fix?
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Old 21-01-2017, 06:02 PM   #18
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Got one of the 3 piece weld less tap kits from Bridgewater Brewing, fits perfectly, but can't get the tap to budge. Seems to be locked in open position. Have only used basic ball valves before. Am I missing something simple to fix?
Lift the little metal ring on the base of the lever to close. I missed that first time too.
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Old 21-01-2017, 06:45 PM   #19
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Yes was aware of that and makes no difference - lifted it and still won't budge
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Old 21-01-2017, 07:31 PM   #20
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Maybe try loosening the nuts holding the lever on, might be a bit too tight.


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5G Fermentation Vessel
Wort Chiller
Digital Thermometers
Bottling Aids
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All other small misc items

Still to buy:

Sanitizer
Ingredients for 1st brew
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