Any Mechanics about??

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CptnCrackoff

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Just got my car back from MOT, its a fail, again, i wasnt supprised itsthe same every year! :lol:

I can cope with the following....

Headlamp aim too high

Dipswitch operation not extinguish all main beams

cv joint gaiter split

BUT.....

Parking brake lever has no reserve travel

and

Parking brake efficiency below requirements (15%)


Would tightening the cable solve both these problems??

I know its tricky without seeing it, just any input would be greatly recieved.
 
Cable adjustment should solve it. Think this can be done on an adjuster on the handle. You should have 4 clicks when applying the hand brake. Any more and it needs adjusting. If it was anything like a siezed cable or cylinder it would show up as an imbalance rather than a low efficiency.
 
9 clicks to its 'normal' position, i've just noticed theres a large squeek as well, from the back.

I thought cable tightening would sort efficiency but wasnt sure on reserve, does that just mean the levers coming all the way up but there should be some reserve for it???
 
No reserve travel means it goes all the way to full travel. 9 clicks is way too much. There should be an adjuster under the cover at the base to the rear of the hand brake handle. it should be a nut on a threaded rod if memory serves me correct. Just tighten that up till you only need 4 clicks to engage the hand brake and job should be a goodun.
 
I'm not a mechanic but have had this happen a few time too. I have always found that removing the drums and emptying out the dust goes a long way - also, the damn self adjusters are nearly always **** so I usually adjust the "self-adjusters" by hand until I can only just get the drum back on - slip the drum on and then you should only be able to get two or three clicks out of the handbrake. Always works perfectly for me on several different cars now :thumb:
 
CptnCrackoff said:
:oops:

Ford Escort - 1998 :oops:

classic essex mobile - is it white or silver :lol:

my first motor was a G reg skoda :oops: (it was a piece of ****)
 
ok buddy
here we go
firstly dont adjust it by the cable...
remove the rear brake drums (you will have to de adjust the cable first) once you have this off check that there is plenty of meat left on them .
if so there will be a ratchet adjuster just below the wheel cylinder, by opening the shoes up ie forcing them apart one click at a time (usually using a screwdriver ) the brake drum needs to be able to still spin but you will just be able to feel it binding a bit .
once this has been done to both sides then and only then can you take up the slack on the cable
things to be aware of : if the drums have a big lip on the inner part you may need to grind this off before re fitting them, if the shoes are wet then the wheel cylinders will be bugered
if you have to change any parts on the brakes always ensure that you do both sides at a time ...
i am just going to re read the thread and i will be back to help ya
 
Headlamp aim too high just needs adjusting also if you have electric adjusters inside the car then check that these are on zero

Dipswitch operation not extinguish all main beams
faulty switch tenner from a breakers yard


cv joint gaiter split

this one is a bit more envolved
but here goes
jack up the car and put a axle stand under it
remove wheel
there will be a 32mm nut on the drive shaft this will be bloody tight ( if you have steel wheels then you will be able to crack it before jacking up the car ) if not get someone to put thier foot on the brake as you undoo it
under the lower arm there is a 17mm nut and a 40torx bit that is a pinch both then pop the lower arm out
push out the cv from the wheel hub ( do not hammer the thread or you will bugger it up)
cut the odl cv boot off and clean up the area where the shaft goes in to the cv and as you turn it you will be able to see a clip with 2 legs on it these need to be prised apart to split the cv from the drive shaft
then slide the new gaitor on and re assamble ensure that you refil the the cv gaitor with the grease supplied
DO NOT USE THE GLUE TOGETHER ONES THEY ARE POO
hope this helps i am in braintree if you get in the poo
pm me and i will give you my tell no if you need it
oh and if you havent guessed it i was a mechanic now a electrician house hold and industrial
 
darrenwest1 said:
DO NOT USE THE GLUE TOGETHER ONES THEY ARE POO
I'll second that, once fitted one to a 1988 Cavalier diesel, lasted about 2 months!!
Nice bit of info that Darren and well explained, your an asset to the forum!
BB
 
i have asked so many questions my self about brewing and got great replies , its nice to be able to help with questions and not keep asking them
 
darrenwest1 said:
i have asked so many questions my self about brewing and got great replies , its nice to be able to help with questions and not keep asking them

:clap: :clap:

Nice one :thumb: A forums members make a forum a great forum :thumb:
 
All done!! :thumb:

Retest is next week.

cv boot was ok, plenty of grease inside still as well. must have only just gone, just a tiny split!! :(

Adjusted the light down to the same level as the other one.

Got a new switch from the breakers, my indicators turn themselves off now!! and i can use full beam, and flash...its like having a new car!!! lol

The handbrake was a bit of a bodge, the nut on the cable wasnt very tight, i cranked it down and that was a bit better...5-6 clicks and slightly pulled away with it on still.

In the end i cut a 1 inch piece of 10mm pipeslid that down the cable then the nut...its perfect now, 3-4 clicks and holds it perfectly, my mate mentioned that he had spacers on his...(theres a large amount of these rust buckets on the streets of colchester!!!) :lol:

so, thats just £14.60 and a little help from the forum, better than the £300 that the garage wanted!!!!
:drink:
 
CptnCrackoff said:
All done!! :thumb:

better than the £300 that the garage wanted!!!!
:drink:

:shock: good save then!!

so i`ve got a mark 4 golf with a dodgy seat belt and a door that only opens every so often :wha: any help :hmm:
 

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