How to fix the manufacturers imperfections on a king keg neck

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I've fitted square section o-rings to mine and a Schrader valve. I half fill with water and pump them up with a car tyre pump for testing. Then I check the pressure over a day or two. It drops initially because the tyre pump heats the air but the pressure should be steady after 12 hours. This also enables me to see at what pressure the relief valve 'lifts' at. I put food-grade grease on the rubber seal and threads. I tighten by hand until the barrel starts to turn.

I got fed up of the 8g CO2 bulbs lifting the relief valve and wasting half the gas, so I now use 16g bulbs and a bicycle tyre inflator - with this you can add puffs of gas and stop if the relief lifts.

Something like this

iu
Great solution, use bigger bulbs and I have the schrader valve already fitted. On my first brew with the keg, beer is superb but reckon I have a lid seal leak as going through 8gm bulbs. I dont want to got looking for the lid leak with beer in, but next brew will definitely check the surface of the keg top.
 
I have had a problem where I get through a lot of CO2 and the beer is very, very gassy. This was due to a failed O-ring where the float tube joins the top tap. When the tap is closed it doesn't leak but when dispensing, the gas passes this O-ring and out through the tap. This produces a lot of foam!

O-rings are 16mm inside diameter and 20mm outside diameter (2mm cross-section). Easy to find on eBay.
 
That`s my problem too ! Very frothy beer, and I am not using high keg pressure, normally around 5 or 6 psi. I have had the lid off and increased line length to around 4 feet with absolutely no change in the excess froth. Looks like will have to live with the froth and check/replace the O ring before the next batch.
Thanks for the info :)
 
kelper You are De Man.. Just finished a very frothy and expensive in CO2 brew. The problem on examination was a leak on the "O" ring you mentioned. I could blow on the beer pickup tube and feel the pressure drop with the tap closed.
I went to replace the "O" ring, I have a generous stock.. I found that by upping the "O" ring thickness by .5 mm I had a far more secure and snug fit int the tap assembly. So it is now 2,5mm, takes a good push to fit but feel more confident that it will not give further problems.
Thanks a million Dude.. :)
 
I like your suggestion to up the diameter. So is that 16 x 19 now? I fit standard size 16 x 18 and renew them often, not every brew. And I've just ordered 20 in Viton. Some seals interact with various lubricants. I've also had to use petrol pipe clips to keep the tubing snug on the two barbs. The tubing loses its elasticity.
 
I like your suggestion to up the diameter. So is that 16 x 19 now? I fit standard size 16 x 18 and renew them often, not every brew. And I've just ordered 20 in Viton. Some seals interact with various lubricants. I've also had to use petrol pipe clips to keep the tubing snug on the two barbs. The tubing loses its elasticity.
Diameter the same, ring thickness up by .5mm. to 2.5mm
 
Diameter the same, ring thickness up by .5mm. to 2.5mm
If you change the thickness, either the ID or the OD changes. I was asking you which 😁.
If standard is 16 X 18 and you make the thickness go up by 0.5mm then the rings must be 15 X 18 or 16 X 19 !
 
If you change the thickness, either the ID or the OD changes. I was asking you which 😁.
If standard is 16 X 18 and you make the thickness go up by 0.5mm then the rings must be 15 X 18 or 16 X 19 !
Gotcha ... On new ring I measured outer diameter at 20mm, inner 16mm.
 
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