Bottle or batch condition?

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gregmcc

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Are there any advantages to batch conditioning over bottle? And what sort of kit would you recommend?
 
some say batch is quicker... but they don't know anything.... :D
There's no difference although it's said unless your measuring is accurate batch priming is more consistent. I do bottle priming and have had no problems whatsoever
I occasionally get a " lively" bottle when I've put two measures of sugar in, but hey you got to live dangerously now and again. :D

Recommendations ?? stick to the well known manufacturers and pick your own style of beer. 2 can kits are best but more expensive but they don't need any extra sugar.
 
Thanks PD, will I get sh*tlaods of sediment either way? I plan a brew kit and got lots of sediment in my bottles of ginger beer, so looking to avoid wastage due to this
 
You will get sediment in your bottles whatever method you choose. Either way your adding some sugar and allowing the yeasties to feed and make CO2 therfore they will make sediment.
However a lot of the sediment can be removed if you rack your brew into a 2nd FV for a week prior to bottling and let it clear there.
 
does it need to be in a pressure barrel for secondary FV, will it make any difference?
I'm going to sound really stupid now, but after fermentation in first FV, syphon off into secondary FV and add sugar to condition?
Can you explain in very simple terms for a complete beer beginner please, and take pity :)
 
However a lot of the sediment can be removed if you rack your brew into a 2nd FV for a week prior to bottling and let it clear there.

Hello PD, Just read the above and I am confused :? I assume by this that you batch prime into a second FV and leave it a week then bottle. If this is right, where does the carbonation come from? Or have I mis-understood.
Cheers :cheers:

In light of the above, how do the pro's get lager into bottles with carbonation and no sediment??
 
you misunderstood or I didn't explain it well enough
You don't prime until you bottle.
You ferment for 1 week in No1 fermenter. It drops a lot of debris You rack into No2 fermenter it drops more debris leave for a further week. Then you prime and bottle from there.
 
Thanks very much for clearing that up.
Any idea on this one?

In light of the above, how do the pro's get lager into bottles with carbonation and no sediment??
 
any difference to the amount of sediment if you use conditioning drops or just sugar?
 
sugars sugar yeast eat sugar and you get sediment makes no diff carbs or plain tate and Lyle.
Commercial lagers have their yeasts killed and filtered out the brew is then force carbonated with gas..... Its not the natural process which is called bottle conditioning....
 
If you rack into a secondary fv to drop more sediment out you will find carbonation takes longer, so if you are wanting a quick turn around of beer maybe worth thinking about.
 
thats fine if you want quick rubbish beers. I prefer to take a bit of time, let the yeasts take a little time and turn out good beer.
If I want alcohol that badly I'd walk to the supermarket
 
piddledribble said:
I prefer to take a bit of time, let the yeasts take a little time and turn out good beer.
If I want alcohol that badly I'd walk to the supermarket
:thumb:


This is exactly why i brew, quality beer that tastes great and is properly made/conditioned for flavour not profit. :drink:
 
The best thing to do is let you beer clear perfectly don't bottle cloudy beer you will just end up with more sediment than necessary.

Secondly batch priming will give you a more consistent carbonation through out all your bottles and hopefully avoid that disappointment when you get one as flat as pancake. Batch priming is really easy but does require a second FV of bucket to drop all of it into.

Which ever method you choose don't forget 1 week at fermentation temp and then 1 week per 10 points of gravity in a cooler enviroment, so a 1040 beer will have 40 points of gravity which is 4 weeks +1 week at temp. You can of course for science purposes test as they are priming after a couple of weeks.

:thumb: :thumb:
 
Ok so does the second FV I plan to use for batch priming need to be able to hold pressure? And as it'll be my first attempt, how long will it take to carbonate? I'm in no rush and would definitely prefer a good beer rather than a quick beer :)
 
no just an ordinary bucket is ok the pressures from priming sugars are easily dealt with by an ordinary bucket....with a lid.
When bottled 2 weeks warm one week cool and then as long as you want
 
gregmcc said:
Ok so does the second FV I plan to use for batch priming need to be able to hold pressure?
You'll only use your 2nd FV to mix the priming sugar into your brew immediately prior to bottling. Dissolve the sugar into some warm, previously boiled water and stir it in then your good to go.
 
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