2nd brew advice please

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Hi all. Planning 2ND BIAB brew for next week, ordering for malt Miller on recipe made using brewers friend

2 gallon (might scale up to 3) BIAB:

2.2kg Maris otter
200g pale malt

60 mins 8g Magnum
10 mins 14g Cascade
0 MINS 24g Cascade

OG 1053
FG 1009


Was going to split into single gallon FV, maybe dry hopping with Nelson or Motueka as read they are nice citrus fruity tastes.

Main Qs: what you reckon overall? Am I overshooting doing dry hopping this early in brewing? If dry hop, can I do in primary, if so would this be at end of activity at about 10 days?

Cheers in advance.
Dry hop away:lol::thumb:
I usually add any dry hops around day 5 and leave em for 5/6 days before i rack.
With aroma hops i was adding at 80c and standing before continuing to cool.Don't much bother anymore,i sling em in at turn off and start cooling.To be honest,i think i prefer the latter method.
You will get lots of differing advice.Experiment and you will find a method that suits you:thumb:
 
Well if Brulosophy has done one of their usual scientific studies everyone else must be wrong.:D
Best advice to Stephen, if you find brewing interesting, join a club, enter comps to get your beer evaluated, ask one of the members of the club if you can help him in a brewday and remember ,'There is no such thing as a stupid question...

:lol: I agree Brulosophy aren't the most scientific, but its interesting food for thought.
The point I was trying to make is that there are many ways to make good beer, and given the type of beer that Stephenj is making and the equipment he's likely to have on his 2nd brew I think it could equally be argued that racking to a 2ndry would be 'bad practice' but for different reasons.
I'm sure the beer will turn out great either way :thumb:
 
OK folks, brew day this Friday as per the original post. Calculated the following using Brewer's friend and other online calculators/forum posts. Any additional advice/ideas welcome.

Method: BIAB APA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 10 liters (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 10 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.053 (recipe based estimate)
Efficiency: 70% (brew house)

Original Gravity: 1.053 Final Gravity: 1.013 ABV (standard): 5.26% IBU (tinseth): 43.57 SRM (morey): 6.93


2.2 kg United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale
200 g United Kingdom - Crystal


8 g Magnum Pellet 15 Boil 60 min 29.69
10 g Cascade Pellet 7 Boil 10 min 6.28
22 g Cascade Pellet 7 Boil 5 min 7.6

10 oz Wai-iti Pellet 3 Dry Hop 4 days

1. Strike water - based on 2.5l per KG would be 6 litres at 74degrees - no technically a true BIAB. Is this eno9ugh for a 10 litre boil?
2. Add malts and achieve 67degrees mash 60 mins
3. sparge in seperate bucket with 3 litres for 20 mins, add to wort and boil for 60 mins.

Should I top up to 10 litres at start of boil, or when chilling?

OR........ should I stick 10 litres into the 13.5l pot at start, mash at 67degrees, let bag drip and maybe pour over some hot water to top up to 10 litres and boil, adding more water at the end for any loss?

Sorry for long post.
 
I would suggest pouring over the bag. But if you're shooting for 10 liters finished then you'll need to know your boil off. I lose about 2.8 liters per hour.
 
That's one thing I didn't record on first brew. You reckon I should fill 10 litres of water and boil, working out from that before I brew? Don't really want to waste water.

Would it make a huge diff if I just went ahead without knowing boil off starting boil at 10 litres, then adding hot water at the end of boil?

What about the strike water quantity - you reckon 6 litres for 2.4kg in a 13 litre pot would be ok?
 
I don't have my brewing log book to hand but from my rough notes in my notebook I made a barleywine with 2.25 kg malt and 7.2 L water in a 10 L pot. From the online version of How to Brew 1 kg of grain takes up 650 ml of volume once in the mash. So your mash would be 7.56 L. This sounds about right from memory as my pot was pretty full but not risking overflowing.
 
You can do that. It will even help you cool it down by adding the cold water.
As for strike temp, without knowing your setup I'm just spit balling here. 13 liter pot, small amount of grain, the water will drop fast. If you're shooting for a mash of 67, I'd have my strike water near 74. I'm assuming your doing your mash in the same boil pot meaning you can keep the pot on the hob? If so, that'll help if you need to raise the heat a bit.
 
Ok, second brew fermented a week longer than planned. Took reading today and FG 1.016, .003 higher than planned. OG was also lower at 1.042 due to extra water I think. Anyway, calculates suggest about 3.6% giving me a sessionable beer which didn't hit targets, but tastes ace tbf . Split the fermentation into 2 FV, 10g dry hop in 1 and 20g in other. Happy with taste of both and bitterness is still good despite extra water. What are you thoughts on he SG and FG? Any suggestions moving forward?
 
What yeast did you use? & what temp did you mash at?
1.042 - 1.016 is only 61% attenuation, which is pretty low, but how does it taste?
Assuming it's defo fermented out - if its too sweet finishing for your tastes then you can make adjustments next time - if not then happy days!
 
Pale ale yeast from crossmyloof pitched at 22c. It tastes fine, and I presume it fermented out after about 5 days, I dry hopped at 6 and was no activity. One thing I noticed but didn't concern myself with based on advice on various forum's is that there was a real lack of krausen on both FV. Could this be an issue? I did consider pitching yeast again to get going, is this an option?
 
Pitching a second time won't help seeing that you OG was only in the 1.040 zone. On big beers, 1.070 and up, the yeast can really get strained and suffer in the high alcohol. The higher FG indicates sugar issues, which falls under mashing procedures. Temp, time mashing, water prep, etc.
you can also get strange results from fermentation temp and pitching temps. I've noticed if I cool the wort down too low, the yeast really become lazy and take their time. I've been shooting for 26 degrees for my pitching temps and then let the fermentation chamber get it down to 21 over the next 24 hours.
 
Pale ale yeast from crossmyloof pitched at 22c. It tastes fine, and I presume it fermented out after about 5 days, I dry hopped at 6 and was no activity. One thing I noticed but didn't concern myself with based on advice on various forum's is that there was a real lack of krausen on both FV. Could this be an issue? I did consider pitching yeast again to get going, is this an option?

I use the CML pale ale yeast quite a bit and usually get around 75% attenuation, mashing at 67C, and I usually get a decent krausen (currently 2-3cm on a IPA).

If it tastes good I wouldn't worry too much, but might be worth checking your thermometer & hydrometer are accurate.
 
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