Ace Brewing System?

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Didn't @mgkpancake replace the element and post a video showing how to do it on the ACE microbrewery thread?
I may be mis-remembering as I've had a couple of drinks and can't find it. Certainly replaced something.

Replaced element and made a video on it check my you tube. I've also replaced the control relay board, switch, and temp cut off switch :lol:
 
No, he got a new pot with the element, I think he has the control panel and the pump as original items but I reckon he will be looked after, seeing as they use his videos for promotion purposes. I reckon he should ask for a free fermenter to be sent to him to get some promotion going on them.
 
No, he got a new pot with the element, I think he has the control panel and the pump as original items but I reckon he will be looked after, seeing as they use his videos for promotion purposes. I reckon he should ask for a free fermenter to be sent to him to get some promotion going on them.

:lol: the only original thing in my ace is the pump (low fail risk design) and the wires. The switch has melted, the kettle element broke (so whole kettle had to be replaced) the temp cut off switch broke. I paid extra for the control board and front panel and just decided to replace those just recently (nothing wrong except the board had sloppy soldering job) I haven't had the best luck you could say. I'm still team Guten ya know? Just wish to have a smooth brew day.
 
:lol: the only original thing in my ace is the pump (low fail risk design) and the wires. The switch has melted, the kettle element broke (so whole kettle had to be replaced) the temp cut off switch broke. I paid extra for the control board and front panel and just decided to replace those just recently (nothing wrong except the board had sloppy soldering job) I haven't had the best luck you could say. I'm still team Guten ya know? Just wish to have a smooth brew day.

The pump should be good, it's the only part common with the Grainfather :whistle::lol:
 
I had a klarstein unit earlier in the year (same as ace). I sent it back as the sugars were burning on the base and tripping the cut out. Very frustrating on brew day. Possibly my fault ( maybe the flow rate was too low? Maybe needed stirring on boil?) but now use a home built herms without possibility of burning... seemed to me that that 2500W element puts aLOT of energy into a small space which risks burning.

Even when on a lower wattage, isnt the unit still 2500w (but only ON for a shorter time)? Th only way to reduce power of the element would be to limit the voltage (can be done but generates a lot of waste heat).

Anyway I was burned and so went my own way (herms using an 18l water heater plus a home built ssr/voltage regulator) but am still looking at all in one systems like a moth and flame... it is only when writing a reply that i recall the brew day pain of burnt sugars / unit tripouts and so it warns me off again......
 
I had a klarstein unit earlier in the year (same as ace). I sent it back as the sugars were burning on the base and tripping the cut out. Very frustrating on brew day. Possibly my fault ( maybe the flow rate was too low? Maybe needed stirring on boil?) but now use a home built herms without possibility of burning... seemed to me that that 2500W element puts aLOT of energy into a small space which risks burning.

Even when on a lower wattage, isnt the unit still 2500w (but only ON for a shorter time)? Th only way to reduce power of the element would be to limit the voltage (can be done but generates a lot of waste heat).

Anyway I was burned and so went my own way (herms using an 18l water heater plus a home built ssr/voltage regulator) but am still looking at all in one systems like a moth and flame... it is only when writing a reply that i recall the brew day pain of burnt sugars / unit tripouts and so it warns me off again......

The ace by it self would make a killer Herms setup. Pump to move water and adjustable temps. Just would need an additional pump, fittings, another kettle and coil to sit inside the ace and that would be money!

You're right it doesn't reduce wattage, just cuts in and out
 
I had a klarstein unit earlier in the year (same as ace). I sent it back as the sugars were burning on the base and tripping the cut out. Very frustrating on brew day. Possibly my fault ( maybe the flow rate was too low? Maybe needed stirring on boil?) but now use a home built herms without possibility of burning... seemed to me that that 2500W element puts aLOT of energy into a small space which risks burning.

Even when on a lower wattage, isnt the unit still 2500w (but only ON for a shorter time)? Th only way to reduce power of the element would be to limit the voltage (can be done but generates a lot of waste heat).

Anyway I was burned and so went my own way (herms using an 18l water heater plus a home built ssr/voltage regulator) but am still looking at all in one systems like a moth and flame... it is only when writing a reply that i recall the brew day pain of burnt sugars / unit tripouts and so it warns me off again......

Had the scorching problem myself initially (not cutting out though) but it went away when I stopped using muntons malt. Since switching to crisp I've not had an issue

Cheers. Tom
 
The element in the Ace and the GF are from the same manufacturer, the Ace has a 2500 watt and the G F a 2000 watt the Ace wattage is also variable, when setting the steps the time, temp and wattage for each step is entered on the controller. The new Ace as I mentioned now has a 9 recipe memory base and the temperature is set in point 1 degree increments, both new features totally unnecessary.
The Achilles heel on both units is the cemented in element, once that goes it is not replaceable, I would much sooner that instead of Ace having the unnecessary extra features that they make the element replaceable.
But when it comes back to value fo money the Ace takes some beating.

I have the Klarstein version and love it. About 10 brews so far no issues. However the wattage is not variable. You can select a wattage and the unit just turns on and off the elements via a relay. Set it at 1250 watts and the 2500 watt element is on for half the time and off the other giving you 1250 watts. Does not matter to me as I boil at max power but it sounds like the GF has actual control over the output wattage not just on and off.
 
I just have mine set on 2000w throughout, when it comes to boil it boils well enough, I don't know if the other element kicks in automatically when set to boil. My BM is 2000w and well insulated but does not boil as well as the Guten/Ace/Klarstein
 
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