How To...Move from Kits to All Grain (Explained)

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hi, i bottled 160 pints this week,and am drinking some geordie bitter right now (2.20am), from 3 weeks ago, and can say am bloody impressed by it...however, one of my favourite drinks is hobgoblin as well as golden glory, now i have seen the ingredients for sale on a link on here from someones post, forget who, but anyways, it costs £9.95, thats not the problem.

Since its all grain and hops etc, its made differently from a kit, and so,i would like to know what sort of equipment do i need to have to brew from grain, hops etc,because i would like to have a go at that sort of venture as well!
Also, is there a recipe for golden glory on the site, or does someone know somewhere that does!!
Thanks guys
 
dammit... i just typed a massive reply and got a "service temporarily unavailable" message and lost the lot :(

i'll re-write it when i'm on my lunchbreak (as i'm about to start work right now) if nobody has answered by then ;)
 
Right, i'm typing this in notepad so if the website kicks and error again i wont lose it!

Turning to the darkside straight from kits is really no biggy.

it does seem daunting at first but once you get that first brew out of the way you'll never look back ;)

To go all grain, you'll need a mashtun and something to boil the volume you want plus 30%. that 30% is the extra wort you'll need to cater for boil off etc, and also to leave enough room in the boiler for safety reasons. so if you want to finish with a batch of 23L in your fermenter, you'll need something that has a volume of 30ish litres for a safe rolling boil. that's the rule of thumb i've sort of come to assume anyways.

all equipment comes in all shapes, sizes and cost. Don't be drawn in by all the shiny stuff you'll see us using. it's not absolutely necessary that you start with a stainless setup, unless you've got a deep pockets and are akin to a Magpie. shiny expensive setups wont neccesarily make your beer taste better either, but it does look cool and is easier to clean ;)

cheaper, more common mashtuns are typically an insulated vessel like a picnic coolbox, with a self made copper manifold and tap for about £30-50 if you build it yourself. you can buy premade ones from the likes of brupaks for a bit more (£50-70 depending on which reseller you use). you may have seen Bain Marie's from nordic optical mentioned several times in the equipment section. these are stainless and insulated and some even come with a tap, for about the same price as a pre built brupaks one. but you'll have to make your own manifold. Mashtuns can be anything, as long as they hold the contents at a ~65 temperature over 90 mins. losing a degree or two over this time isnt too critical though. i've seen some people using normal stock pots wrapped in blankets and old duvets effectively too.

boiler, you can start off with one boiler and use it as both your liquor tank and copper by using gravity and fermenters to collect runnings, so an expense is spared on pumps etc. any boiler will do aslong as long as it's got enough headspace as previously mentioned. these range drastically in price from just under £100 for a plastic one, to £150 for an enamel one like mine (but it doesnt have the headspace and have to be damned careful) right up to brupaks stainless ones that are several hundred pounds. if you've got a well ventilated area for which to brew, i've seen people use normal stock pots with a hole drilled and fitted tap, used on a gas burner. dont forget the hop strainer! (yes it's been done... dont ask hehe)

have you thought about extract brewing?

if your on a REALLY tight budget, you can do away with the mashtun altogether, just have a boiler and be an extract brewer. by this i mean you'll be using tins of malt extract mixed with water, and then boil and add hops, instead of mashing grain as this is already done for you and conveniently tinned. you can do a hobgoblin clone i'm sure by this method, and i'm sure someone with a clever bit of software can convert their AG recipe into extract for you to have a go at.

With extract there are a few benefits; you'll have around 3-4 hours less time in your brewday (a typical AG brew takes between 6 and 9 hours from start to finished and cleaned up). it's also cheaper to start with on equipment as you only need a boiler with a hop strainer. you also wont need to worry about effieciency and water treatment as much. it also has a couple of drawbacks just like AG has too; LME or Liquid Malt Extract is more expensive per brew than grain. and some experienced brewers here would probably be able to tell that everso slight "kit beer" taste Extract brews can sometimes have. AG on the otherhand although it takes longer, if your the sciency type, it's great fun tinkering and tweaking very minor things, and tasting the effects later. i also think it's alot more rewarding :D oh and AG is cheaper in the long run as grain costs alot less than LME

ultimately the choice is yours! ;)

if you're on a tight budget, then going for extract would only need:
A Boiler (plastic one)

If you want to start with AG but cheaply without the use of pumps and extra bits:
A Mashtun (home made converted picnic coolbox)
A Boiler (plastic one)

If you want to start AG and have a few more bits to hand to make the whole process go smoother:
A Mashtun (pre built brupaks or home converted Baine Marie)
A Boiler
a chiller, either copper Immersion (IC) or counterflow (CFC)

if you want to go AG, have deep pockets and are a bit of a magpie:
A Stainless Liqour Tank (brupaks for eg)
A Stainless mash tun (brupaks or Baine Marie)
A Stainless Boiler
A Plate chiller
conical heat controlled stainless fermenters
RIMS
HERMS
PID's
PH meters
this
that
the other
..
....
and so on and so on... you get the drift though right? your beer will still taste awesome no matter how tight or flush you are! :drink: :drunk:


hope this helps ;)
 
oh a few other things are needed, but you probably have them anyway from doing your kit brews:

hydrometer - ESSENTIAL if you havent already got one
campden tablets to treat your liquor - to remove chloramines that can add a TCP like taste
trial jar for your hydrometer
 
I went all grain on a shoestring my outlay went as follows

£50 - 10 Gallon H&G boiler (I could have bought smaller and cheaper)
£30 - Immersion Chiller - You can make these youself much cheaper if you're DIY inclined 10m of 8mm copper ~£16
£17 2xfermentation Buckets and 1 tap (lauter tun)
£0 an unmodified cool box nicked off me mam :lol:

I mash in the cool box and then transfer the grain to my lauter tun.

The lauter tun is made by taking the a fermenting bucket and drilling the bottom full of 2mm holes and sitting it inside a fermenter with a tap on it. This can also double up as a mash tun, the head of our brewing group has been using this method for 40+ years and he makes cracking ale.

I'm still turning out good beer with this kit now a year on.
 
J_P said:
£30 - Immersion Chiller - You can make these youself much cheaper if you're DIY inclined 10m of 8mm copper ~£16

I know I am on my own here but I still don't use an immersion chiller. If I brew on a saturday morning I fill the bath with cold water and chill as quick as I can in there (stirring occasionally with a sterile spoon). If I brew in the evening I simply slap on the lid and leave to cool overnight and pitch the yeast in the morning before I go to work.

I keep meaning to make a CFC but just never get around to it. I should put one together and publish a "how-to".
 
BrewStew said:
dammit... i just typed a massive reply and got a "service temporarily unavailable" message and lost the lot :(

i'll re-write it when i'm on my lunchbreak (as i'm about to start work right now) if nobody has answered by then ;)

Well done on a cracking post Brew :clap: Sorry you had to do it twice :oops:
 
:cheers: hey thanks for the brilliant reply brewstew, am printing it off now, and looking at shopping around for items, live in the sticks here, but i think newark has a brew shop, must admit, now am back into brewing i never thought so much was available, always thought it was dying out, but obviously it is not!!..thank god

But after looking at what you guys are brewing and have made, i suppose it make kits look like a 4p tin of beans and your making 41p tins of hp beans...lol, that just came out of nowhere!!! lmao
Anyways, thanks again, and will keep posting my progress as i start to get things together!!, think i will order a hobgoblin kit for even more incentive!!
Thanks again guys and cheers!! :drink:
 
Adding to B S's excellent post. :clap: Could I just add that a good book to have around is Real Ales For Home Brewers by Marc Ollosson. It's not as technically inclined as some I've read and has about 100 recipes included. It also gives straight forward info on hops, grains, yeast etc with easy to follow instructions for brewing. The book's out of print but still to be had at some online bookstores.

Best of luck with your first AG. Mine's in a secondary FV and should go into a cornie when my regulator arrives.
 
falafael said:
:cheers: hey thanks for the brilliant reply brewstew, am printing it off now, and looking at shopping around for items, live in the sticks here, but i think newark has a brew shop, must admit, now am back into brewing i never thought so much was available, always thought it was dying out, but obviously it is not!!..thank god

No worries ;)

I was in your shoes April last year, having only brewed kits and jumping straight into AG. All the advice i got from the fellas here and there. I'm just glad i can give what i've learned back to the community and help another new starter ;).. pay it forward type thing :D

I think homebrewing is kicking off now more than ever given the current prices and non smoking issues.

to follow on from Kingfishers post, yes a book is worth a read. try not to get too overwhelmed by the science and technicalities (although as KF says, that ones not too technical). for the first brew K.I.S.S Keep it simple, stupid :P and enjoy it rather than panicking if you've missed something.

The only thing i'd say you must stay on top of is sanitisation. the brew itself can be fraught with disasters, but if your sanitisation is up to scratch, i can almost guarantee what you produce will be drinkable if not delicious ;)
 
hi, thanks, yes your right, thats why all 9 of my kits have turned out well is because of the importance of steralisation of equipment!
Right now, am saving a bit of money from overtime at work, think have also turned a few people toward the home brewing side of things as well, given how cheap it is to brew at home, pity about the pubs though closing down, maybe if most of us here were local, we could all meet up and perhaps exchange ideas and beer!!
Thanks again! :drink:
 
I'm doing my 3rd all-grain this weekend coming and I brew it with this :- http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/catalog/de ... HA20225648

I paid the extra for the twin element boiler. I also splashed out another £45 for a Cygnet 27l boiler that I got on Ebay and use as my HLT and went the whole hog and bought two Cornie kegs and pub gas. Oh and the wort chiller was another £30 so all in all not much change from £350 but I had a bit of cash to spare and I tend not to do things by half. The Cygnet boiler I could have done without if I were trying to save money as could the IC but I'm a bit of a perfectionist. Had I had DIY skills and tools I'm sure I could have chopped that bill down by a huge amount, plenty of info around on installing cheap kettle elements to plastic PP vessel boilers and making IC's from 10mm copper tubing. Alas I don't so I didn't.

Yep, it was a large investment but my last 23l recipe cost £12.36 according to Beersmith and that's with my relatively poor efficiences (5Kg M.O. for example for my 5% brew). I'm still new to this and working on sorting my efficiencies and stuff but the beer I'm producing is absolutely spot on! I remember my days of old with Geordie kits and thinking to myself "well, it's not as good as the pub but it's cheap" but now the stuff I'm making is 10x better than the Tetleys and John Smiths **** and just blows away the Geordie kits!

Ultimately, I now have the power to produce beers that are to my particular liking (think Summer Lightening) and at a fraction of the cost at the pub. Experimenting with different hops at different time intervals is a lot of fun too. The one I've just kegged is a total unknown, a recipe I formulated just for the hell of it and on tasting the runnings into the keg it tastes fantastic! :) I'll never go back to kits after this. :)

Damn, I'd forgotton why I originally replied! With regards to sanitisation, the beauty of AG brews is that you can be almost as 'mucky' as you like until you chill the wort! The water for the mash doesn't need to be boiled, the mash tun doesn't have to be sanitized, anything pre-boil needs no sanitization. You only need to worry about stuff after the boil. The IC chiller if you use one gets chucked into the boil 10-15 minutes prior to the end as the boil kills any nasties. The sanitization starts when the boil has finished. Basically, just the FV and anything used to stir the wort to aereate it needs to be sanitized and then obviously any piping and bottles / kegs / secondary FV's.
 
hmm, interesting relpy parva, i keep toying with the idea, and love the idea of trying out your own blend that you can do with AG, i too am not to good at diy, so i would go the sane route as yourself, thing is , the missus says, these kits aren't that bad, so why complicate things, yes, they aren't bad, this geordie scottish export is very nice, but i like to take things further, i mean, i love all ales by wychwood and badger ales, and if there is a road that will take me to producing ale similar to what those produce, then hey, i'm going to go down that road, it might take a bit of time, but i will get there!!
 
Cheers brewstew,

That was an excellent post, I think it, or something very similar, should be made a sticky to fire up extract brewers (like myself) to give AG a go and see what they are missing.

I've just bottled my second extract brew and hope to be AG as cheaply as possible withing the next 6 months or so.

You've definitely got me seriously thinking about how I can do it sooner!

Now all I need is some space and get the missus to look the other way for a bit. :D

Z
 
I agree, i'll look at splitting it out and adding it to the 'how to' section :D
 
As requested, copied this to the how to section.

Thanks for the effort you put in on this one Brew :thumb:
 
I've moved a copy of this to Brewing How To and changed the title :cool:

Good work Brew :D
 
Nice one BS :cool:

I still brew with a plastic boiler and HLT. Both are 25L FV's i put some elements in. I have a 33L coolbox i turned into a MT. I've done 30 something brews with this kit so far. I can do 40L batches no probs(although it was ''fun'' the first couple of times) but it's a long brewing day doing two boils and cools.

Best bit of kit-my IC chiller. Home made and relatively cheap. Couldn't do with out it here in the summer. :cool:

The most expensive part, for me, has been the storage and serving. I got mightily fed up with bottling 25-100L a week so bought a load of cornies. That meant taps, line etc. But now i have it it'll last for yonks and keep me well supplied with great beer. I'm even developing a nice little beer belly for my efforts. :D
 

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