Burco 30ltr boiler (tea urn)

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corby_brewer

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Just a quick question. Is it possible to by-pass the thermostat on a Burco 30ltr tea urn.
001-5.jpg


Thanks in advance

Dave
 
IMG_1378.jpg


1. Disconnect both ends of the grey wire that runs from the upper element connection to the back of the thermostat - and discarding this wire

2. Disconnect the end of the blue wire at the back of the thermostat and reconnecting it to the now vacant upper connection of the element.
 
:oops: I found it on another forum :oops:

Don't worry mods/admins . . . I'll go and drink Carling to atone for the sin :cry:
 
AH the cat is out the bag!! :shock:
Now we now where Alemans "experience" comes from!! ;)
 
kenzie said:
27ltr burco boiler is wired differently - any advice?

Have you got a photo or a wiring diagram that you can post? Someone will probably be able to figure it out.
 
It's the same wiring as above just things are mounted in different places.
Same as before discard the grey wire going to the thermostat and put the bule wire from the thermostat to the now vacant pin on the element.
 
thanx for assistance so far - still struggling in terms of getting a continious boil.
I have altered the wiring as recommended, however, it still 'trips' out at 95 degrees and so is not reaching boiling point. It then takes 20 minutes to return to 95 degrees.
In addition to the 27 ltr burco, i have also tried an electrim with similar results.

Both are recommended in books and its frustrating me that I cannot seem to achieve a continious boil.

Any further advice will be very much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!

PS Have you achieved a continiuos boil??

Kenzie
 
kenzie said:
thanx for assistance so far - still struggling in terms of getting a continious boil.
I have altered the wiring as recommended, however, it still 'trips' out at 95 degrees and so is not reaching boiling point. It then takes 20 minutes to return to 95 degrees.
In addition to the 27 ltr burco, i have also tried an electrim with similar results.

Both are recommended in books and its frustrating me that I cannot seem to achieve a continious boil.

Any further advice will be very much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!

PS Have you achieved a continiuos boil??

Kenzie

Might be worth simply moving the temperature probe away from the base.
 
Does anyone know of a way to fit an hop strainer to the inside of the tap? im having a false bottom made for it but it going to take a couple of weeks till i get it and im wanting to get a brew on this weekend. I have a hop bag which i could use but i would prefer a strainer.
 
As a quick fix, get one of THESE they are less than a quid a Wilkos but not SS :( so use once and throw away :thumb:
Strip out the mesh, roll it into a tube, fold one end over and crimp it with pliers, shove the other end into the tap hole :thumb:
Voila, instant temporary hop stopper :party:
 
Any chance of that photo again Aleman. I need to do the same mod only I don't have a grey wire and I don't get what you mean by the upper element connection, left or right as you look at it. I've got black and blue wires off the stat not grey and blue.

Cheers
 
Actually those black wires are grey. I know, they looked black to me too...

Unfortunately, on mine, disabling the thermostat does not solve the problem. The newer Burcos have an extra sensor that cuts out at 95 centigrade. It is this sensor that needs to be bypassed, not the thermostat. This is how it looks before the mod:

DSCF0044croppedandscaled.jpg


Remove the blue wire between the thermostat and the cut-out sensor (from the terminals marked 1 and 2 in the picture.)

Disconnect the grey wire from the cut-out sensor (marked 3) and reconnect to the now-vacant terminal on the thermostat (marked 2)

The boiler will now boil continuously when the thermostat is set to 6. (I've done a 60 minute test boil - no problems.) It will function as before when set to any other position i.e. it will simmer at a certain temperature depending on the position of the dial. Note that the indicator LED no longer functions when wired like this. It can be reconnected but this requires adding piggy-back spade connectors. I haven't tried this yet, if I do I'll add another post.

Also note that I've left the boil-dry sensor in the circuit. It works fine without bypassing it, probably best to leave it in for safety's sake.

If I get chance I'll post another pic of the wiring post-mod.

As always, you do this sort of stuff at your own risk. This is for the Burco C30STHF model, other models may vary. BE CAREFUL!
 
Hello all,

Sorry to kick start an old post, but I thought this would be the best place to ask something.

I too have a 30 litre Burco, it's a new one - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cygnet-MFCT1030 ... 680&sr=8-1

It's great at holding a rolling boil, but I need to be able to control the temperature a little better. At the moment if i turn it down a notch the thermostat kicks in and the temp jumps up and down, I need to be able to hold it at a certain temp.

I think i've worked out what I need to do, remove the Thermostat, and rig up a Phase angle controller, but I don't want to blow myself or my garage up in the process! So, would this phase angle controller be able to cope with the Burco? - http://ualstore.co.uk/a14232-qvr-s-tb-rfi-230v.html

When I get the chance I'll post a pic of the insides of the Burco (it's got a wierd triangle type screw that I can't get out)

ta!

Paul
 
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