aamcle
Landlord.
Try adding rice hulls or the equivalent to help with drainage.
aamcle
aamcle
Mash keeps compacting with Grainfather
- Thread starter jceg316
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Zephyr259
Landlord.
If it keeps happening then sure, but shouldn't really be necessary on a grain bill with minimal specialty malts.
aamcle
Landlord.
True and most people don't seem to have this problem which suggests either there is an issue with your grain crush or your process and I can't help you with those :)
aamcle
aamcle
I have removed all the restrictions in the path of flow, the ball and spring and the small "crosses" in the re circulation arm and CFC designed to depress the ball if it was still there. After doing this mod I got much better transfer speeds to the FV whilst chilling but the first mash I did, it got really compacted and plugged up.
My solution was to start the mash slowly, restrict the pump by closing the valve and just regulate it so you get only the tiniest trickle of overflow, after 15 minutes I stir it all up again and start the mash flow again the same way, my efficiency has gone up, the wort is super clear and sparging is, if anything, too quick, I push the top plate down until it just reaches the water level after I have added and stirred the grain.
When I am sparging, I then push the top plate down until it sits on the grain quite solidly.
20 brews later and happy that my solution works I am confident in recommending it.
The secret is a really slow start so the pump does not suck the grain into a compact mass before it has absorbed water, I believe it swells a little only making it worse, that is why I stir it after 15min.
My solution was to start the mash slowly, restrict the pump by closing the valve and just regulate it so you get only the tiniest trickle of overflow, after 15 minutes I stir it all up again and start the mash flow again the same way, my efficiency has gone up, the wort is super clear and sparging is, if anything, too quick, I push the top plate down until it just reaches the water level after I have added and stirred the grain.
When I am sparging, I then push the top plate down until it sits on the grain quite solidly.
20 brews later and happy that my solution works I am confident in recommending it.
The secret is a really slow start so the pump does not suck the grain into a compact mass before it has absorbed water, I believe it swells a little only making it worse, that is why I stir it after 15min.
I don't have a mill although it's on my long list of things to buy. Depending where I order my grains from I get a noticeable difference in efficiency tho which I'm sure is down to the crush.
jceg316
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After you stir the mash after 15 mins, do you gradually open the tap over time? Do you still mash for 60 mins?
During the boil how do you filter your hops?
What you've done sounds very interesting!
After I have stirred it I gradually open the tap over abou 5 minutes so I can ballance the amount of overflow, I want just the tiniest trickle of overflow, during themash I might need to open the valve a bit more.
I still mash for 60 minutes as the temp is where it needs to be the whole time, it still has plenty of time to filter itself.
During the boil I just throw the hops in, for the flameout additions I cool the whole betch to 80 degrees, throw in the flameout hops and give a massive whirlpool, then I leave it for 15 minutes and pump it over to the FV through the CFC. The hops are all left in a i big cone at the bottom and I get nice clear wort in the FV.
I still mash for 60 minutes as the temp is where it needs to be the whole time, it still has plenty of time to filter itself.
During the boil I just throw the hops in, for the flameout additions I cool the whole betch to 80 degrees, throw in the flameout hops and give a massive whirlpool, then I leave it for 15 minutes and pump it over to the FV through the CFC. The hops are all left in a i big cone at the bottom and I get nice clear wort in the FV.
Just bear in mind that the ball and spring is a safety device designed to only allow wort to flow when either the re circ arm or CFC are in place, removing it and the ballvalve being turned accidentally on or left on with the pump running will spray hot or boiling hot wort everywhere, fine if it's just you and you are aware of what you are doing but if there are kids about they will touch stuff they shouldn't.
mgkpancake
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^^^ this. Slow mash recirculation will keep grain bed from compacting.
I've never reduced the flow of recirculation and by the end of the mash it's always running clear and never compacted...maybe this is why I don't get the same efficiencies as others?
Going to try this suggestion today! A Guinness clone with the roasted barley and the black malt seems to too fine for my liking..
I'll take notes on this...
See what I find.
The last stout I couldn't see the recirculating wort for froth!! Lol
But it's worth a shot.
Bri
I'll take notes on this...
See what I find.
The last stout I couldn't see the recirculating wort for froth!! Lol
But it's worth a shot.
Bri
Yeah! As I just said in my remarks...never thought about it tbh!
Always cranked it up, never found an issue with it apart from one small batch of pale ale..
Using the small pipework the recirculating pump started gurgling!! If u know what I mean...
But came out fine..
Bri
I would say the biggest efficiency improvement I got was stirring 15minutes into the mash.
jceg316
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I'm brewing today so I'm gonna try some of the techniques used here. I'll start off basic and get more complex.
I'm gonna restrict the pump at first and over time open it out. I'll also use a tea strainer over the hole in the middle of the mash. I'll see how this works then consider removing parts of the hardware.
I'm gonna restrict the pump at first and over time open it out. I'll also use a tea strainer over the hole in the middle of the mash. I'll see how this works then consider removing parts of the hardware.
I've only used my GF twice both 23l with about a 5kg grain bill. I haven't experienced this but handy to know and look out for.
What I have done is added the grain in small batches using a measuring jug and stirring after each addition to make sure it's all wet through. I let the top plate rest slightly on the grain bed and do let the wort go down the overflow. Not really thought about it but allowing it to overflow will keep a decent amount of moisture flowing through the pump to avoid clogging, essentially keeping it lubricated. Hit target OG both times so haven't seen an impact of some wort not circulating fully through the grain. Figured recirculating was as much about maintaining an even temp as it was about mash efficiency.
What I have done is added the grain in small batches using a measuring jug and stirring after each addition to make sure it's all wet through. I let the top plate rest slightly on the grain bed and do let the wort go down the overflow. Not really thought about it but allowing it to overflow will keep a decent amount of moisture flowing through the pump to avoid clogging, essentially keeping it lubricated. Hit target OG both times so haven't seen an impact of some wort not circulating fully through the grain. Figured recirculating was as much about maintaining an even temp as it was about mash efficiency.
I tried 20l yesterday.
If fate hit me after reading this thread...lol
Massis Otter, flacked Barley and roasted barley.
Started good....restricting the pump..
But the pump already struggled later on.
Thinking 2 things needed here.
1. Tea strainer to help (especially the Barley chrush.
2. listening to the GF calculator one times under shot the mash water, if you know what I mean?
The brew had all the hall marks of the pump going to be struggling (dust from the grains) added with lack of mash water plus no tea strainer.
No wonder my pre boil volumes was way down!
Good old Brian's brain not working AGAIN!!
Getting exact strike water could of worked...
If I had thought lol trying husks for drainage might of worked.
Like I said it was good to put more effort into the sparge...effeincy must be higher, hit the readings apart from volumes Lol so I think that cancels a lot of it!!
Oh well...every day is a learning day!
Reckon an IPA same Grain bill will test it! Experimental Brian on the case! :-)
Note to self...buy a tea Stainer!!
Later all
Bri
If fate hit me after reading this thread...lol
Massis Otter, flacked Barley and roasted barley.
Started good....restricting the pump..
But the pump already struggled later on.
Thinking 2 things needed here.
1. Tea strainer to help (especially the Barley chrush.
2. listening to the GF calculator one times under shot the mash water, if you know what I mean?
The brew had all the hall marks of the pump going to be struggling (dust from the grains) added with lack of mash water plus no tea strainer.
No wonder my pre boil volumes was way down!
Good old Brian's brain not working AGAIN!!
Getting exact strike water could of worked...
If I had thought lol trying husks for drainage might of worked.
Like I said it was good to put more effort into the sparge...effeincy must be higher, hit the readings apart from volumes Lol so I think that cancels a lot of it!!
Oh well...every day is a learning day!
Reckon an IPA same Grain bill will test it! Experimental Brian on the case! :-)
Note to self...buy a tea Stainer!!
Later all
Bri
Has anybody got a link for a tea strainer for the GF pls?
Thx
Bri
Thx
Bri
BeerCat
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I think the one i have seen is like this just broken in half. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless...132055?hash=item1a25313717:g:Aq0AAOSwcLxYHuBi Otherwise i think it would be a sieve without a handle.
BeerCat
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Does anyone know what spec pump the GF uses?
Lovebrewing have an excellent Grainfather FAQ here - http://www.lovebrewing.co.uk/guides/beer-making/grainfather-faq/
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