johnnyboy1965
Landlord.
No blockages, only looses 1oC over 60 mins, stipped and cleaned in 2 mins.
Easiest Mash Tun Ever
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johnnyboy1965
Landlord.
Cost is about ã35.00. Use your old FV buckets. Just wrap it up in a old quilt.
Grumpy Jack
Regular.
:thumb:
Go on, exactly what did you do?
Go on, exactly what did you do?
Got fed up of drilling holes by the look of it!! :grin: :grin:
But a great idea!! :thumb: :thumb:
DocTrucker
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Very similar to what is being discussed in this thread:
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=60271
Great to see it getting good feedback though as it is on my to-do list! :)
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=60271
Great to see it getting good feedback though as it is on my to-do list! :)
johnnyboy1965
Landlord.
Indeed I got fed up with drilling holes. but it works a treat. Ive been using it for 4 years now. Much less faffing about than the "coolbox" equipment.
johnnyboy1965
Landlord.
Ive seen that thread, and it looks very nice. Im a firm believer in "keeping it simple". That mash tun is very well insulated, but as I say mine only looses 1oC over 60 mins, so why bother?
DocTrucker
Active Member
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Indeed, needless complexity for the sake of 1C isn't worth the effort.
keat64
Landlord.
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I just read this article by JapanBrew http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=60396
And it will have you thinking that anywhere from 55ð to 72ð is an acceptable mash range, so maybe there's massive room for temperate losses and we worry too much.
And it will have you thinking that anywhere from 55ð to 72ð is an acceptable mash range, so maybe there's massive room for temperate losses and we worry too much.
johnnyboy1965
Landlord.
Yes and no. JMHO I think that many HBers worry too much about too many variables. Getting the most value for money from your ingredients is v. important, but not the end of the world. To me, brewing is not a exact science
Notlaw
Dubbel Dragon
I think it's up to the individual how much of an exact science they want it to be. If you just want to make "beer", then you don't have to worry about everything being precise. However, if you want to be able to replicate styles exactly and reproduce something that you have already done before, THEN it does need to become an exact science.
johnnyboy1965
Landlord.
Mas Tun in action
DocTrucker
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Finally getting ready to do my brew Wednesday next week. Thought my upgrade to all grain was only going to cost me ã30 until I realised I needed a container to catch the sparge run-off! Doh!
What efficiency did you achieve?
Planning to mash for an hour with 73C strike water aiming for 68C mash temp. I'll check for complete conversion with Iodine then do a continuous sparge at 0.5l/min run-off until I've a full pre-boil volume or runnings hit 1.008 S.G.
What efficiency did you achieve?
Planning to mash for an hour with 73C strike water aiming for 68C mash temp. I'll check for complete conversion with Iodine then do a continuous sparge at 0.5l/min run-off until I've a full pre-boil volume or runnings hit 1.008 S.G.
yeastinfection
Landlord.
5ð difference .. id have expected more loss doughing in,
Callumbo
Well-Known Member
Any chance of there being enough space between the buckets for a kettle element. Might be easier to heat the water in it perhaps?
Hi!
I wonder whether there is a bucket that would fit inside an electric boiler like the ACE boiler?
keat64
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Why do you need another vessel for the sparge ??
I sparge in to my FV, then transfer this to the boiler.
The FV then becomes available for the boiled wort an hour later.
I guess you steralise it in this hour.
braziliain
Small Batch Brewer
What are you straining it through there? Is that to remove fines passing through the bucket holes?
I think this one step missing from my process. I've got too many fines in my boil from the mash and it all ends up in the fermentor at the end causing wastage.
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