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mgkpancake said:
I don't. Still need some measuring devices, mineral salts, fermentation vessel, buckets, bottling equipment, etc.

American wheat beer is very easy to make and hard to screw up. I would recommend that if you're doing AG.

Nice to know the ACE Microbrewery has stepping to reduce/prevent scorching or malt liquid. If you guys check the video, the gentleman also posted brewing with it on another forum. Awesome to view anyone looking at buying one, check it out on YouTube, there's a link in the description to a forum where he posted additional videos.
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I will have a look + wouldn't mind helping/seeing how your brew day goes as have only watched it once before + if you are local I have most of what you after and will be able to help out
 
try local plumbers merchants who supply local plumbers for copper tube and fittings, i think generally they charge based on the price they bought in at rather than the current trading price so if in stock you could save on the last price hike at least..
 
Just got permission from HWMBO to buy one, order placed! Now just got to be patient for a few weeks!
 
Personal91 said:
I will have a look + wouldn't mind helping/seeing how your brew day goes as have only watched it once before + if you are local I have most of what you after and will be able to help out
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Cheers mate, I've sent you a message!
 
Got a brew on as I type

Boiling away nicely (so that's what a good rolling boil looks like). Up to the boil on 2500w then turned it down to 1900 to maintain the boil.
One question about electric boiler things in general. Does it harm the contacts or the element to have it cycling on and off every couple of seconds?

Cheers. Tom
 
Well that was all quite painless

Anyone know how to get the brown stuff off the base of the pot around where the concealed element is? I presume it's burnt on sugars from the malt. Got some off but don't want to rub too hard. Can't scratch the shiny :nono:

Cheers. Tom
 
I use a bag so no burnt stuff, just an off white layer stuck to mine. When I'm cleaning up I boil up a few litres of water with some steriliser in it, once it's been boiling for a few minutes the gunk just wipes off the bottom of mine.
 
soupdragon said:
The boiler is all packed away now. Does it matter how long it's left before I try again to clean it off?

Cheers. Tom
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Sorry Tom Yes.. post boil element gunk is best attacked with elbow grease and a scrubby, even a SS scrubby wont scratch a SS element or damage it..
it takes just a few minutes of effort to bring the gunkiest element back to shiney if attacked asap post boil..

If left to dry out at all it seems to become an order of magnitude harder to remove and you can forget elbow grease..

a citric acid, or lemon juice or vinegar or kettle de-scaler soak is now what you need.

Next time as soon as you have rinsed the last of the hops from the kettle reach for a kitchen scrubbie and get stuck in, its very rewarding and once you get some off it all just follows..
 
Hi Fil

It's actually a concealed element, the gunk is on the base of the pot directly above the element. I've asked the Mrs to get me a lemon when she pops out the shops tomorrow

Cheers. Tom
 
its the same mixture of calcium carbonate and hopefully not so much burnt sugars build up if its a tubular or concealed element. my experiences with concealed elements with my grainfather;) is that they are more prone to hotspots, but the good news is you can get away with a nominal soaking solution to degunk i would suggest some citric acid as the best bet its cheap and available from hbs, using hot water for the soak solution will help, 2 teaspoons in a pint will do for an overnight soak imho..
 
citric acid can attack soft metals like copper and brass, but is fine with harder metals and synthetics. if worried about the pump you can bung its drain/pump feed to protect it.
 
Just had a quick rub with some vinegar.
Got some of it off so have left a thin layer of neat vinegar covering the affected area to soak for a while. The inlet for the pump is offset and there is a raised area around the element so the pump should stay dry :)
I'm wondering if a thinner mash would help reduce future scorching?

Cheers. Tom
 
soupdragon said:
Just had a quick rub with some vinegar.
Got some of it off so have left a thin layer of neat vinegar covering the affected area to soak for a while. The inlet for the pump is offset and there is a raised area around the element so the pump should stay dry :)
I'm wondering if a thinner mash would help reduce future scorching?

Cheers. Tom
Click to expand...

Or brew in a bag or a mesh barrel that you can use instead of a bag!

What other equipment will I need to buy with this or will I be able to brew with it straight away and just get it fermenting in a fv once its cooled ?
 
mgkpancake said:
I don't. Still need some measuring devices, mineral salts, fermentation vessel, buckets, bottling equipment, etc.
.
Click to expand...

I have just ordered my own ace boiler with step programming and managed to get free delivery with it, it may only be 7 quid saved but that's 7 quid towards grains and hops - or just towards beer haha
 
Personal91 said:
Or brew in a bag or a mesh barrel that you can use instead of a bag!
Click to expand...

The boiler comes with a stainless steel malt basket so it's like a posh brew in a bag.....

Personal91 said:
What other equipment will I need to buy with this or will I be able to brew with it straight away and just get it fermenting in a fv once its cooled ?
Click to expand...

Apart from a wort chiller?
As long as you have the basic equipment for brewing (fermenter, big spoon/paddle, hydrometer and the like), you should be good to go :)

Cheers Tom
 

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