Broken lidl jam maker

Thought I had a bargain brew kettle 27litre 1800watt from charity shop. Bought a biab mash bag and grain and started my first all grain brew:lol:. Just managed a brew,but power kept cutting after a few minutes of rolling boil. In the end it switched off for good . Have used google to find that many other people tried to brew within and had similar problem. Any suggestions or should I just bin and save up for a proper kettle.

greenmantle said:

Thought I had a bargain brew kettle 27litre 1800watt from charity shop. Bought a biab mash bag and grain and started my first all grain brew:lol:. Just managed a brew,but power kept cutting after a few minutes of rolling boil. In the end it switched off for good . Have used google to find that many other people tried to brew within and had similar problem. Any suggestions or should I just bin and save up for a proper kettle.

Click to expand...

Change the element or try a different power cable

greenmantle said:

................ should I just bin and save up for a proper kettle.

Click to expand...

NO!

DEFINITELY NOT until you have exhausted all other possibilities of a more economic solution!

If the size is okay and the material is okay then all you will have to do is replace the broken bit with something more durable.

For two years I used the boiler in the photograph. It was made from a cheap FV from Wilco and an even cheaper kettle element from Tesco.

For about a fiver, you can do the same using the 27 litre container that you already have.

Hi Dutto, that is what I wanted do ,repair the element . The element is not submersed like a kettle though it sits underneath more like a water urn. It actually looks similar to £150 brewferm kettle but has enamel body.

Just fit a new element ditch the electronics and control it with a cheap (ebay) pid there job done.


aamcle

Thanks for the info(a link to seller would be even better)am fine with a bit of bodging but want to keep it all safe.Love this forum I am currently drinking a dry hopped ipa kit from a reused Adnams mini keg!

Apparently ('cos i've never used them) here's a link to the company that supplies spare parts for all Lidl products such as Parkside, Silver Crest etc.

https://www.kompernass.com/index.php?route=common/home

If it's in German please click on the Union Jack at the bottom of the page.

Enjoy! :thumb:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-P...838349?hash=item1c6bedea0d:g:9lsAAOSwWZ9XoDqM

ultra cheap or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INKBIRD-I...hash=item4b0c8e4235:m:miyXmgvKXh0EuAlgnrPZtuQ


Go for one with a PT100 rather than a K type thermocouple.


aamcle

If you are thinking of drilling the urn to fit a kettle type element, be aware that the enamel coating will crack off both outside and inside. It keeps on breaking away from the steel underneath for sometime after you stop drilling. I tried to fit a tank connector so I could replace the plastic tap with a ball valve and use the device as a hot liquor tank. I ended up smearing epoxy resin over the area but I never felt happy with it as I didn't want chemicals from the epoxy leaching out into something I was going to drink so now it just gets used to heat water for washing equipment after a brew.

Firstly im not qualified to give electrical advice, and googleing anything i suggest is worthwhile before committing, that said ...
if the element is switching on/off then its highly likely that its got some over boil or boil dry protection

the first thing to check is if the element has any burnt on crud as this will help it overheat, so scrub back to shiny metal, vinigar, lemon juice, citric acid, or even kitchen kettle descaler will do it..

then if still cutting out look for the thermal fuse and or thermal switches. open the base with the power off and unplugged. one or both will probably be attached to the element base

thermal switches generally look similar to:


its probably the thermal switch thats at the root of the problem as it can switch back on once cooled sufficiently, thermal fuses on the other hand tend to blow and no longer work at all.

you can either unbolt it from the base plate or bypass it and connect its two connecting wires however your advised to use a High temperature connector, the usual leggo brick style connector could easily heat up and melt its plastic coat.

post pics if in doubt, and always unplug anything before you open it...

edit you can also buy a suitably rated replacement thermal switch for a quid or 2 go for something that is Normally Closed NC, rated for at least the same as your element i would go higher .. and select a temperature that it will switch off at like 140C or more..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermal-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-NC-or-NO-Range-from-50-C-to-150-C-/151084725893?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

greenmantle said:

Thought I had a bargain brew kettle 27litre 1800watt from charity shop. Bought a biab mash bag and grain and started my first all grain brew:lol:. Just managed a brew,but power kept cutting after a few minutes of rolling boil. In the end it switched off for good . Have used google to find that many other people tried to brew within and had similar problem. Any suggestions or should I just bin and save up for a proper kettle.

Click to expand...

I had exactly that happen to my Lidl jam preserver after 15-odd brews. I cut a hole in the side and added a 2.4kw Peco element. The original was 1.8kw, and not immersed, so it struggled to keep a boil anyway - now it boils away beautifully:
Ripped this out:

Q-Max cutter:

Element in: