Vermont IPA v3

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

strange-steve

Quantum Brewer
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
6,027
Reaction score
5,798
Well this is tomorrow's brew, and will be my 3rd attempt at a NEIPA and hopefully third time lucky. The other two were decent enough beers but not good examples of the style. This time I've completely removed the 60 min hop addition, cut out the crystal malt to lighten the colour and I'm using the hybrid conan/644 yeast strains (see here).

Specs
Batch Size: 23L
Original Gravity: 1.054
Final Gravity: 1.012
ABV: 5.5%
Colour: 4.3 SRM
Bitterness: 12 (predicted but will be much higher)
Mash Temp: 68°C

Grain Bill
4.5kg Maris Otter
500g Flaked Oats
155g Flaked Barley
110g Acidulated Malt
100g Wheat Malt

Hop Bill
20g Amarillo at 5 mins
20g Galaxy at 5 mins
10g Chinook at 5 mins

30g Amarillo at 0 mins
30g Galaxy at 0 mins
10g Chinook at 0 mins

50g Amarillo dry hop
50g Galaxy dry hop
30g Chinook dry hop

Notes
Split batch, half fermented with F1 and half with F1C4 variant.
2g/L calcium chloride added to RO water.
 
Are you really going with zero sulphates in your water or did I read that wrong?

No you read it correctly, I'm trialing AJ Delange's water treatment method which is discussed here. I have a suspicion that the slight harshness I detected in previous attempts is from the sulphate, so I'm trying without this time.
 
No you read it correctly, I'm trialing AJ Delange's water treatment method which is discussed here. I have a suspicion that the slight harshness I detected in previous attempts is from the sulphate, so I'm trying without this time.

It'll be interesting to hear how it turns out. I'm currently conditioning an extra-pale APA that was brewed using Braufessor's chloride/sulphate ratio in this post. It looks similar to what you're trying to achieve.
 
It'll be interesting to hear how it turns out. I'm currently conditioning an extra-pale APA that was brewed using Braufessor's chloride/sulphate ratio in this post. It looks similar to what you're trying to achieve.

That's an interesting post, I was particularly intrigued by the high bicarbonate level, did you copy that or just the chloride: sulphate?
 
That's an interesting post, I was particularly intrigued by the high bicarbonate level, did you copy that or just the chloride: sulphate?

I just copied the Cl/SO4 ratio as it's totally backwards to what I'd normally do in a hoppy ale and I really want to try to achieve a soft mouthfeel. I went with this using Morrison's Yorkshire Vale as the base water:

Ca: 78
Mg: 10
Na: 13
SO4: 65
Cl: 128
HCO3: 28

Not nearly as high in bicarbonates as his water. It was the Cl/SO4 ratio that I really wanted to try out. I only bottled 2 days ago so no idea how it's worked out yet.
 
The mash is nearly done now, though I did have a slight mishap with the Grainfather. I set the delayed heating so that it would be at strike temp when I got up this morning, though apparently the temperature probe wasn't in properly so it was boiling away while reading 20° :doh:
Otherwise so far so good, and this new water treatment method seems to be working well despite being counter to what I'm used to. This is a really pale beer with no crystal or roasted malts, 100% RO water and a 2% addition of acid malt and the mash pH was very surprisingly measured at a perfect 5.35.
 
All wrapped up now, got 23.5L of 1.057 wort and it smells pretty good. The colour is much better too, it's actually a good bit lighter than it looks in the picture.
BnAkvIY.jpg
 
Nice and hazy too. I assume that you're not going to fine it?

Nope, no finings. Though I did cold crash my first NEIPA to drop out the yeast and it still kept its haze.

The first round of dry hops went in this morning and it smells really good so far, like mango and tinned peaches.

The F1 seems to have calmed down a lot already whereas the F1C4 is still going like a train.
 
Nope, no finings. Though I did cold crash my first NEIPA to drop out the yeast and it still kept its haze.

The first round of dry hops went in this morning and it smells really good so far, like mango and tinned peaches.

The F1 seems to have calmed down a lot already whereas the F1C4 is still going like a train.

I get the no finings, never use them in anything myself anyway, but did you use Irish moss or Protofloc in the boil?
My son's coming over at the weekend, wants to do something very similar for his first brew with me. Talk about in at the deep end, but it's what he likes to drink so no pressure there then :smile:
He's done lots of research though and come up with the recipe himself and has even worked out the water chemistry himself. I'll give some advice but generally let him run with it, it's his brew. We'll be using the Yeast Bay Vermont yeast, at the moment we're thinking not to use Irish moss.
 
Nah I never use kettle finings, a little haze in any style doesn't really bother me. Good luck with the brew, what sort of water treatment are you planning, out of curiosity?
 
Nothing too elaborate on the water chemistry. Camden tablet, Gypsum and Cacium Chloride. Need to reduce ph, we're planning to use the acidulated malt for that, I've got a guide on how much to use.
Not too sure how we're going to measure the small amounts of water additions I usually just lob a teaspoon of gypsum in my hoppy brews. This will be my first time with liquid yeast too, I'll have to get a starter going as soon as it arrives this afternoon from Malt Miller.
 
Nothing too elaborate on the water chemistry. Camden tablet, Gypsum and Cacium Chloride. Need to reduce ph, we're planning to use the acidulated malt for that, I've got a guide on how much to use.
Not too sure how we're going to measure the small amounts of water additions I usually just lob a teaspoon of gypsum in my hoppy brews. This will be my first time with liquid yeast too, I'll have to get a starter going as soon as it arrives this afternoon from Malt Miller.

Presumably you're aware that for this style the sulphate: chloride ratio is usually reversed compared to a normal IPA, so gypsum additions are relatively light.
 
Presumably you're aware that for this style the sulphate: chloride ratio is usually reversed compared to a normal IPA, so gypsum additions are relatively light.

Yeah thanks been reading that. My son seems to have more idea what he's doing than me on this, got all his figures worked out, but I'll make sure he's aware of the sulphate/chloride ratio for the style.
 
The first round of dry hops went in this morning and it smells really good so far, like mango and tinned peaches.

.

How's it coming along?
I wanted to ask about the dry hopping as I'm having my 3rd crack at this style in a couple of weeks. Previously I've added the first round of dry hops at the same time as pitchig the yeast partly so I don't forget to do it and partly to avoid lifting the lid one extra time - is there any benefit to waiting until the fermentation is underway do you think?
:cheers:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top