All Electric Home Brew Build oct 2014

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hulmea

Andy
Joined
Oct 2, 2014
Messages
50
Reaction score
6
Location
Liverpool
[FONT=&quot]Hi All,

I am new to this forum so I though I would share my build as it goes along in case others have input or would like to share their knowledge.

I have only done 3 extract brews so far and this will be my first attempt to build an all grain setup.

Limitations:

Cheap. I want it all cheap. :-) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Control software to be done in Java and reusable. I am trying to learn this language so this is an ideal opportunity to put it into practice.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]NOTE: If i did not already have the Raspberry PI and wanted to learn Java I would just use the standard Home brew heater controls. They are only around 25 quid and I have spent more than that in SD cards and wires.
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Plan:

Plastic 30 Liter HTL, mash Tun and Kettle.
2.2KW electric elements. 4 of from ASDA kettles 5 pounds each
Control via Raspberry Pi –Ardu Fruit break out board with 240V 10Amp Relays. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Written small reuse java modules.

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This week: The HLT is born.[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This is a 25 Liter plastic fermenting bucket with 2 2.2KW kettle elements.
[/FONT]
HLT.jpghttp:


The elements are installed in the bottom.

heating_Ellement.jpghttp:




[FONT=&quot]Raspberry setup[/FONT][FONT=&quot].[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Tutorial from to setup the temp probes. All on Raspberry P07 input[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]https://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/projects/raspberrypi/tutorials/temperature/[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Software built in Eclipse with pi4j Libs. http://pi4j.com/
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Raspberry P02 use for output to MOSFET Circuit with 12V coil 240 V 10amp relay. This relay has 3 10 AMP Circuit[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
Raspberry_Pi.jpg

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Software Built so far:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Turn Replay on (for testing)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Turn replay off (for testing)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Get Temp to file (for checking the current temp to screen)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Monitor Temp (For longer term monitoring. )[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Control set tempt to hold and for how long. This is the main control that will be used most of the time.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Testing heating.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Water start temp 36.312[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]End temp 99.312[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Time taken = 30 minutes[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Based off this result the actual output of heat look more like 3.80 KWs. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Next steps: I am currently monitoring the cooling to be able to fine tune to the heating cycles for the temperature hold.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
I now have a short 7 day break then i will be building more.


[FONT=&quot][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thanks for Looking[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Andy[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

View attachment heating to 100 C with 4.4 KW.zip
 
Very similar to my HLT/Boiler, I assume they are the same elements as my tesco & argos £5 kettles which say on them 1.8-2.2Kw. I just wondered why you put the elements in the bottom not the side? My temperature control is turn off when it gets to mashing or sparging temp and turn 1 element off when it reaches a boil (I use a coolbox mash tun).
 
very cool stuff, we are setting up an arduino rims system but will check out your code
 
Hi Simon,

Good idea about turning off one when at temp. I will give that a go. I mounted them on the bottom as it was a flat surface. I did not think about putting them though the sides. I will try that when I step up to bigger container in the future. I can see how it may make things easier.

If anyone is interested in my very basic code I commit the changes to a got hub. Its on the open source license so feel free to do with it as you wish.

https://github.com/hulmea/Homebrew

I am planning to make them all very generic so they can be used on any system. For example at the moment the file path and serial ID of the temp probe is hard coded in. I aim to use either a parameter file or a user input so they can be quickly reused.

Not onto trying to beg borrow and steal copper piping :-)


Thanks for looking.
 
Hi All,

Back from my Hols. getting all my gear together and will start building tonight. This is my back of the napkin design for the control board and the HLC and Mash-tun. I am missing the taps at the moment and hope to have them and be running tests with water this weekend.

Home brew System.JPG
 
Hi All,

Today update. I now have a full control system built for my home brew experiments. And started on the mash tun.

Control Board:

This has 2 240V 13 AMP feed into it

Multi block for running the Raspberry and other tools.
2 Controllable sets of 2 sockets each delivering 10Amp each. Each can be swiched so when a the HLT is up to temp I may run one heater off.

1 Live socket with switch. (I had this lying around I may make it controllable if I need)

2 Temperature sensors on long leads. I have 3 more and will add them when I get some more cable.

Raspberry Pi with Wireless. I use SSH for all connections.


Mash Tin-

This is being built out of 2 fermenter bins inside one anther. The temperate control will be done via a heat exchanger in the HLT. I have managed to bend 3M copper coil to add into the HLT. This will recuculate the wort to kep it at temp. I have not decided if i will insulate it or not yet. I have some Sheep's wool insulation spare so may wrap it when in use.

So far I have added a tap and driller the holes for the false bottom in one bucket.

Thanks for reading. Suggestions comments welcome.


Andy

IMAG0367.jpg


IMAG0372.jpg
 
Testing the system with a small kettle.



This is the first test run of my control software and it seems to work OK. It does go over temp a little but this is a small kettle so it is expected. I will make adjustments to the timing and thresholds on the main system when tested.

The temp is taken and then depending on its difference to the Set temp the heater will be on for less time. The closer it gets the more accurate it should be. For my test run the max on time is 30 second and the min is 1 second. With a large tank of water these will be increase by a lot. The monitoring I have done before of the heating of a full tank will be the starting point for my settings.


The command is Main.jar “Time to run” “Set Temp”

pi@raspberrypi:~/homebrew/Testing$ sudo java -jar Main.jar 10 65
10 Mintues
The current time is 12:55
The boil will end 13:05
The water target temp is: 65
Water temp is 16.562
The current water temp is 16.562C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 48.438C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 30 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 24.437
The current water temp is 24.437C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 40.563C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 25 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 29.437
The current water temp is 29.437C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 35.563C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 25 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 35.5
The current water temp is 35.5C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 29.5C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 10 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 37.625
The current water temp is 37.625C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 27.375C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 10 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 41.75
The current water temp is 41.75C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 23.25C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 10 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 43.875
The current water temp is 43.875C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 21.125C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 10 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 47.125
The current water temp is 47.125C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 17.875C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 5 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 48.625
The current water temp is 48.625C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 16.375C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 5 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 50.5
The current water temp is 50.5C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 14.5C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 5 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 51.75
The current water temp is 51.75C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 13.25C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 5 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 52.5
The current water temp is 52.5C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 12.5C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 5 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 54.75
The current water temp is 54.75C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 10.25C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 3 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 56.875
The current water temp is 56.875C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 8.125C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 3 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 57.187
The current water temp is 57.187C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 7.813000000000002C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 3 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 57.625
The current water temp is 57.625C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 7.375C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 3 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 58.062
The current water temp is 58.062C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 6.938000000000002C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 3 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 59.0
The current water temp is 59.0C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 6.0C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 3 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 60.187
The current water temp is 60.187C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 4.813000000000002C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 2 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 60.625
The current water temp is 60.625C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 4.375C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 2 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 61.437
The current water temp is 61.437C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 3.5630000000000024C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 2 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 62.562
The current water temp is 62.562C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 2.4380000000000024C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 63.125
The current water temp is 63.125C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 1.875C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 63.062
The current water temp is 63.062C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 1.9380000000000024C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 63.187
The current water temp is 63.187C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 1.8130000000000024C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 63.437
The current water temp is 63.437C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 1.5630000000000024C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 63.625
The current water temp is 63.625C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 1.375C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 63.875
The current water temp is 63.875C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 1.125C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 64.25
The current water temp is 64.25C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 0.75C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 64.562
The current water temp is 64.562C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 0.4380000000000024C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 64.812
The current water temp is 64.812C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 0.1880000000000024C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 64.875
The current water temp is 64.875C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 0.125C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 64.937
The current water temp is 64.937C The Desired temp is 65.0C The temp diffrence is 0.06300000000000239C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 1 seconds
--> GPIO 02 state now should be: OFF
Water temp is 65.062
Current temp is over target temp, sleeping for 10 seconds and will check again
Water temp is 66.625
Current temp is over target temp, sleeping for 10 seconds and will check again
Water temp is 66.937
Current temp is over target temp, sleeping for 10 seconds and will check again

Next Steps: test with 25 Liter of water and tune the temp settings.

http://www.blackboard.com/[FONT=&quot][/FONT]

IMAG0374.jpg
 
Testing Strike water and mash temps:

From tonight's testing I found in order to keep the mash tun with no insulation at temp the HLT need to be kept at 90 C while recirculating the wart though the coppers coil. This is higher than i though but it should be noted the HLT is only now half full after emptying the strike water so only half my coils are underwater. I may shorten the coils as a lot is doing nothing.

I went our today to my local shop in Liverpool and picked up an all grain kit Old Peculier . I hope to try this brew next week. I will add the grain bill when I brew this.


Next Steps:

1) Build a wort chiller. I may just use ice for the first brew.
2) Check my water losses from void spaces
3) Insulate the mash tun and re-check the temps.

IMAG0376.jpg
 
Update:

I added a roll of insulation to the mash tun and modified by control software to accept decimals to try and keep them temp within range. Added a 3-12 V powers supply for the pump.

@4.5V this run at a 1 L per Minute. This should be OK for recuculation and sparge.
@12V 1 L every 8 seconds. Good for Strike water.

Mash Tun Testing:

Testing with water only. With 16 Liter in the mash tun I can hold the temp to within about .1 to .2 C.

The temperature is taken once it leaves the heat transfer coil from the HTL. Anther temp probe is used in the Mash Tun to check the actual mash temp. The set temp is the outlet of the coil temp and not the Mash Tun so need to be higher that the Mash Tun.

Set @ 67 = 66.25 -66.375

Set @68 = 67.187 - 67.35

Added decimal input to get finer control.

Set @67.5 = 66.933- 67.000

My first brew will be an OP clone.

Mash temps suggested by Beer Smith

60 min mash @66.7C for 60 mins. 16.57 L
Mash out @75.6C 10 Mins 8.72 L
Sparge @75.6 8.54L. 1L per min

Grain Tab:

5.46 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)
0.29 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)
0.21 kgChocolate Malt (450.0 SRM)
25 g Challenger [7.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min
14g Fuggles [4.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min
14 g Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min At end
Newcastle Dark Ale Yeast (Mangrove Jack's #M03)


Upgrades:

1) I could add more control to get the temp with 0.1 C but I feel this would burden the heater coil and relay.
2) Factor in the temp drop from the first temp probe on the coil output to the mash-tun. This can be calibrated when doing the first mash and software update to auto compensate.

Cooling: I will have to use ice for my first run unless anyone in Liverpool, near Kirby wants to lend me a immersion chiller and hose for this first batch. :-)
 
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I have created 2 simple tools to help you monitor your temperatures and record these.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The files are too large to attached here so have been shared via Google Docs.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1FtHZ0RC3eGQlFsSTNuam05QTA/view?usp=sharing[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]InstallV1.jar This help you setup you config file to let them system know what Temperature sensors are fitted.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]MesureTemp.jar This outputs to screen the temp in C and date/time from the sensor you select. It also save to an Excel compatible file. [/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Setup the thermometers: [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I used Vktech DS18b20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors from Amazon. Pack of 5 for 5.99 you can add as many as you like.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Connect Black to GND, Red to 3.3V+ and yellow to GPIO pin 4.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Put the 4.7kΩ resistor between pin 2 and pin 3 of the temperature sensor.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Check your temperature serial numbers. In this example I only have one temperature sensor. You can find this in your :/sys/bus/w1/devices directory. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]pi@raspberrypi: ls[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]28-0000055083da w1_bus_master1[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]If there is nothing listed there apart from w1_bus_master1 make sure you run.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]sudo modprobe w1-gpio[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
sudo modprobe w1-therm[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]To auto run these on start edit [FONT=&quot]/etc/modules[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]sudo nano /etc/modules[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Add the following:[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]w1-gpio[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[FONT=&quot]w1-therm[/FONT][/FONT]



[FONT=&quot]Ensure java is installed:[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]pi@raspberrypi: java -version[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]java version "1.8.0"[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Java(TM) SE Runtime Environment (build 1.8.0-b132)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Java HotSpot(TM) Client VM (build 25.0-b70, mixed mode)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Add these 2 files to a space on your system:[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]pi@raspberrypi: ls[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]installV1.jar MesureTemp.jar[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Run the Installer:[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]pi@raspberrypi: sudo java -jar installV1.jar [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Properties File not found! Please edit the new file called properties.txt in the dir /home/pi/your location[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]This creates a new file if not already there.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]pi@raspberrypi: sudo nano /home/pi/ your location /properties.txt[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]the file is created with the following as default.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]TempProbe1=serialnumber[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]TempProbe2=serialnumber[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]TempProbe3=serialnumber[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Edit the config file using nano[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]pi@raspberrypi:~/homebrew/ToShare$ sudo nano properties.txt [/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]TempProbe1=28-0000055083da[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]TempProbe2=serialnumber[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]TempProbe3=serialnumber[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Save using CNTL X and select Y to save[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Running the Temperature Monitor:[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]The program will output the temp and time to screen every 5 seconds and save to a csv file as well in the same directory this is run from. The name of the file will be data(serialnumber).csv. In my example the file is called data28-0000055083da.csv. Attached is an example file for review. You can use this with excel to map etc.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]pi@raspberrypi:~/homebrew/ToShare$ sudo java -jar MesureTemp.jar 1[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]13.75C 2014-10-26 20:34:59[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]13.75C 2014-10-26 20:35:05[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]13.75C 2014-10-26 20:35:11[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]To exit this program and stop recording use CNTL C[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]


View attachment data28-0000055083da.zip
 
Set temperature for HLT, Boiler or Mash.

Download Set Temp file:

Java jar file can be downloaded from Google Docs: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1FtHZ0RC3eGUExjZ1ZwSExqeGc/view?usp=sharing

Ensure you have setup the temperature sensors as in my post above and your config has the correct serial numbers. Minimum of one sensor.

The command is HeatToTemp.jar Time of boil, Temperature to heat to, Temp Probe number

Output of Raspberry PI:

I am using GPIO_02 as the switch to the relay. I use this though a 2n7000 MOSFET driver. This sets the pin GPIO_02 to high when the temp is less that the temperature you have set.


Example Set Temperature:

pi@raspberrypi: sudo java -jar HeatToTemp.jar 60 70 1
60 Minutes
The current time is 21:17
The boil will end 22:17
The water target temp is: 70.0
Water temp is 13.75
The current water temp is 13.75C The Desired temp is 70.0C The temp difference is 56.25C
--> GPIO state should be: ON for 200 seconds

[FONT=&quot]To exit this program and stop recording use CNTL C or wait until the 60 Minutes is up. [/FONT]
 
Brew day today.

Things are not going great so far.:???: Many mistakes made and some redesign still needed but will plow on.

So far

1) Mash temp. This was holding steady C less than I wanted at 66. I re-adjusted to 68 for sensor 2 but instead typed 78. Did notice until I saw my mash temp hit 71C. More attention needed next time.

It started at 70C for about 15 mins before dropping down to the correct temp. :-(

2) The false bottom holes are too small. I finished the sparge water and it still draining. There is still lots of water in the mash but its very very slow to drain. I will see how much I can get out of this to see if there will be enough for a full boil.


3) The HLT to mashout temp rise took longer than i though so I ended up mashing for 10 mins more than I planned.
4) I need a valve between the HTL and the mash tun exit to the water pump. I worked around this by clamping the tube.

Next Steps: Boil and ferment.

I have a feeling this batch will not turn out well so if its too sweet after a 7 day ferment then i may just bin and start again with some redesigning of the kit.
 
well drilling more holes isn't the end of the world. Have you thought about melting them with say an old soldering iron? Should go quickly and limit your chance of cracking and think of the fun carcinogens you will inhale :)
 
Thanks brew Pirate. I did drill about 400 holes and tested with 4KG of gain. it seems to work fine now. I just need to fund some time to put a brew on.

I have a Youngs Special grain kit to try this week.
 
First brew today. It was a grain kit from our local brewing store. It was a Youngs clone.

I had no idea this would take so long to make some beer. A lot of things done wrong and some done right..

Basic plan:

Mash In 13.35 L @70.4 Hold steady as 64.5 for 75 mins
Mash out @96.9 Holding at 75.6 for 10 mins
Sparge for 30 mins at 75C.

The gravity came out at 1.046.


1) At the end of the Mashout/sparge there were some bits in the wort. They only came out as the work came level with the tap. I may in future use a bag as this is also easier t clean.
2) Keeping the temp steady. I found holding the mash temps verified wildly depending where in the mash the tem probe was set. Anywhere from 62 to 64C. The target temp was reacted and held steady.
3) I kept the heat exchanging pump running while heating the HLC for mashout and this increased the Mash temp to 80C. This is over what was needed for mashout so either turn the pump off of lower the temp needed to mash out
4) The Wort in the Kettle from 64C to 100C took nearly 1 hour. Then it was boiled for one hour with 3 liters evaporating.
5) The heat exchanger need to be made form a longer coil. I will order one the home made one did not do the job well enough. Took. 1 hours 30 Mins to cool to 30C
6) I did this brew in my house and now my Misses is complaining the house smells of sick. Looks like I will be banished to the garage again.
 

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