The Old Forum Water Calculator

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so you get this sort of thing happening depending whether the carbonate is in the form of carbonate (CO3 2-)or bicarbonate (HCO3-). H+ is the acid hydrogen ion.
H+ + HCO3- → H2O + CO2
2 H+ + CO32- → H2O + CO2
 
I think the CRS/AMS does remove the carbonates since the acid neutralisation process converts bi-carbonate to water and CO2. I double checked Murphy's data sheet: Time should be allowed to release the carbon dioxide
produced by the neutralisation of excess carbonate

Aha! thats brilliant, thanks some more understanding!
 
Sorry for digging up an old thread. Something I've been trying to work out is what happens if you get the dosing of CRS and DLS wrong?

CRS is an acid so neat it is presumably harmful and DLS I just don't know. What should you do if too much goes in - is it a health risk?
 
Interesting stuff, what are the PH ranges for mash water and sparge water?
although I guess it varies with different beer types, are lighter beers lower PH and darker beers higher ph?

If the water is hard like mine 284ppm CaCO3
would I notice any benefit from adding CRS rather than just boiling my water?
 
Hi. I've just come across this calculator whilst doing some looking into adjusting my brewing water. Looks like a fantastic tool and very easy to use - I love the fact that it works out the additions for you.

Only problem I have is, I don't have CRS but I do have lactic acid which I had planned to use before I came across this calculator. Does anyone know if there is any way to substitute one for the other?

Cheers.
 
I have managed to track down and talk to the guys that actually developed the 'Old calculator' Martin (Eskimobob) did all the coding, and a lot of the background was provided by Tony (Aleman).

It was decided to make something really simple to use using what was readily available, hence the CRS. They decided not to use lactic or phosphoric as they are not as flavour neutral as hydrochloric and sulphuric (the components of CRS) when used to significantly alter the alkalinity. Martin decided to base the additions sort of along the guidelines of Murphys recommended levels although Tony wanted a different approach. They also decided to ignore the effects of the grain bill, but recommend that the alkalinity is reduced less for dark beers. Tony was saying something like 30 for pale beer with no crystal or dark malts and up to 100-125 for dark beers with lots of crystal and roast malts.

I've got to say that using the levels recommended and the approach that Tony prefers, my beers have come on leaps and bounds, hoppy beers made with high sulphate really have a zing about them and dark beers with high chloride are full and malty. I'm also using way higher levels than recommended here in the US and the difference is astounding.

Brew On!

Mike
 
I've got to say that using the levels recommended and the approach that Tony prefers, my beers have come on leaps and bounds, hoppy beers made with high sulphate really have a zing about them and dark beers with high chloride are full and malty. I'm also using way higher levels than recommended here in the US and the difference is astounding.

Brew On!

Mike

So your basically using the amounts of sulphate and chloride recommended by the old old forum calculator?
 
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