Brew Fridge Temperaturee

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fuggled

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Hi All
I've recently got myself a brew fridge sorted out, I got an inkbird and a heater and cobbled it all together. I'm planning to use it in the coming week or so for my next brew.
What is the best temperature to set it on, I'm planning on using an Ale yeast (wyeast 1968) so I was planning on setting it on 20c and just letting it take its time until it's fermented and cleaned its self up, maybe 3 weeks. I read that others start at 20 for the first 10 days or so, and then bump it up to 24/25... is that a diacetyl rest? And is it necessary, or shall I just keep it on 20 until it's done?

Thanks!
 
Generally for an ale yeast a steady 20°C is all you need. The majority of my brews (kits) are fermented out within a week but I usually let it have two weeks to let the yeast do it's thing. Then dry hop for however long the kit suggests if they're supplied. Never needed any longer than that.
 
Hi All

I've recently got myself a brew fridge sorted out, I got an inkbird and a heater and cobbled it all together. I'm planning to use it in the coming week or so for my next brew.

What is the best temperature to set it on, I'm planning on using an Ale yeast (wyeast 1968) so I was planning on setting it on 20c and just letting it take its time until it's fermented and cleaned its self up, maybe 3 weeks. I read that others start at 20 for the first 10 days or so, and then bump it up to 24/25... is that a diacetyl rest? And is it necessary, or shall I just keep it on 20 until it's done?



Thanks!



Depends on what style you're aiming for. The warmer the more esters and fruitiness you'll impart on the beer and slightly cooler at around 17 degrees would give a cleaner tasting beer :)
 
I was thinking about this, and given that yeasties like steady temps, it's a bit of a contradiction.

If you followed all advice you would start a couple of degrees higher to kick Off the fermentation.

You would then lower it to main fermentation temp.

After a week or so you would then raise it again to help the the clean up.

Then you would take temp right down to cold crash.

Then finally take it back up again to 20 or so, for carbing and bottling.

Can't help thinking that keeping at the one chosen temp for duration would be better for the beer?
 
be prepared for primary to complete in days rather than weeks when a stable temp is held ;) you could be bottling or kegging within a week with a brewfridge.

depends how you brew but if its an AG brew you can achieve the advantage of a slightly warmer pitch by simply chilling to pitching temp out of the fridge , pitch and set in the fridge to normalise at the target temp..

I tend to prefer a cleaner brew and as such will tend to ferment at the middle to bottom of the temperature range published as optimum for any yeast strain that is unless im after specific traits a warmer fermentation can provide..

If primary does race along in a matter of 3-5 days then i would generally raise temps by 2c or so to the top of its comfort zone for a day prior to chilling.

BF in the natural world temperatures fluctuate, in the brew fridge you can create and maintain optimum temps, and as long as you avoid stressing the yeast which could promote mutations pre and during primary all should be well..
 
i tend to primary and secondary in one vessel, so leave it brew fridge for 3 weeks or so, generally at 18c. As such not sure when primary finishes as I just leave it be for 3 weeks. Haven't cold crashed yet but may try it next time.

After 3 weeks do you think I would still need to raise temps a bit before chilling?
 
i tend to primary and secondary in one vessel, so leave it brew fridge for 3 weeks or so, generally at 18c. As such not sure when primary finishes as I just leave it be for 3 weeks. Haven't cold crashed yet but may try it next time.

After 3 weeks do you think I would still need to raise temps a bit before chilling?
Unless your beers are tainted with an unwanted butterscotch flavour you probably dont need any rest.. with 3 weeks in the fv at an optimum temp i would imagine your yeast will have found and eaten everything possible..
while a diactyl rest raises the temp a few degrees to give th yeast a boost to finish up any 'loose ends' of sugars they can consume..


crash chilling is employed to aid the clarity as sediment drops out quicker in a colder liquid, however if sat stable for 3 weeks your beer may well be bright without it? Probably worth a crash chill test, but if your beer is no clearer after the event, i would question if its worth it or not.

Might be worth checking gravity readings of your brew as its the only way to be sure of the yeasts progress. it may indicate you could bottle/keg much earlier, and if so then you may find the rest and chill more attractive options.
 
They do tend to be quite clear, and I throw most of the trub in too. What I do get though quite often is a chill haze after they they go into the fridge though. Would a cold crash help or hinder that?

I am quite patient ( ok, lazy!) and am happy to let it sit in the fv.
 
well afaik neither crash chilling nor a diactyl rest could have a negative impact, but i dont think either would have much of a positive effect either with the patience you exhibit with your brews. both are shortcuts to save the time your happy to wait anyway.

as for the chill haze, best solution i know is to sup from an opaque mug ;)
 
I use Irish moss (when I don't forget to but it in) most of the time but bending towards gelatin recently. Chill haze is caused by slowly cooling after boil. Faster you can chill after boil, the more those proteins will drop out. I've also had better luck at transferring to secondary after 5 days then after 2 weeks, cold crashing for 3 days then keg. Then force carb and let condition for a week. After, transfer to a new keg. Lot of work but very clear beer. I'll try gelatin and if it's the same amount of energy then I'll probably breakdown and buy a filter system.
 
Fil- maybe a pewter tankard then!

i bottle condition, and have read that if, after you've given it time at room temp for a couple of weeks, putting bottles in fridge for 3 weeks, so sort of cold crashing in the bottle. may need yet another fridge.
 
That does work. When I bottled that was what I did. But I was brewing every week so it was easy to bottle and not touch since I had plenty of previous brews going.
 
i think i will give that ago. i split this brew after its carbonated and condition half at room temps and the other half in the Brew fridge at low temps as poss for a month.
 
Fil- maybe a pewter tankard then!

i bottle condition, and have read that if, after you've given it time at room temp for a couple of weeks, putting bottles in fridge for 3 weeks, so sort of cold crashing in the bottle. may need yet another fridge.

what you cant see cant bother you ;)
:whistle:
 

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