Centennial SMaSH

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jamie72

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
113
Reaction score
13
I am planning my 2nd all grain batch and have the ingredients coming for a Centennial SMaSH.

My first all grain was the Dennis King Galaxy Delight and was thinking of using a very similar hop schedule for this brew to keep things simple i.e

15g at 90 mins

45g at 15 mins

40g dry hop.

My question is, due to the fact that Centennial is lower AA than Galaxy, Should I nick 5g from the late addition or the dry hops to achieve sufficient bitterness?? Would 5g be enough?

Any advice would be welcomed, thanks. :thumb:
 
Yes if you nick them from the dry hops it will keep the IBUs the same.
 
Yes if you nick them from the dry hops it will keep the IBUs the same.

Rather than dry hopping I am thinking now about the remainder of the hops steeping at 80'c for 30 mins. To be honest I am getting a bit fed up with the extra faff at bottling where dry hopping is concerned. I wonder how much effect this will have on the finished beer? A little less aroma but same amount/ more flavour?
 
Yeah I'm dry hopping less now and steeping most brews. I find it gives more flavour. Reduced aroma, and different. But I reckon dry hop aroma is pretty short lived anyway. It's great while it lasts but uses lots of hops, is messy, and fades! And contributes to haze, a lot if you dry hop big time.
 
Yeah I'm dry hopping less now and steeping most brews. I find it gives more flavour. Reduced aroma, and different. But I reckon dry hop aroma is pretty short lived anyway. It's great while it lasts but uses lots of hops, is messy, and fades! And contributes to haze, a lot if you dry hop big time.

Nice one clibit think I will be trying this out then. I have heard of whirlpooling but a few stirs should do the trick?
 
I just leave them to steep. I think I stir a bit too, at least initially to get them well soaked. I also mash them in the bottom of the kettle to get as much wort out as possible, bit primitive, and maximises the trub in the fermenter, but it doesn't cause any problems later for me.

Don't dismiss dry hopping, it does something nothing else will do and loads of brewers love it, and so do I. I'm just a bit lazy, probably, and I find I can make beer that really suits me without bothering. But I still will in certain beers.
 
Yeah I am just a bit annoyed with it at the moment as on Monday I bottled what will hopefully be my last ever kit brew, Youngs American IPA which was a Christmas present. I ended up with small amounts of hop debris in every bottle.
I know these were pellets rather than leaf hops but it has left me feeling a bit miffed with the whole dry hopping thing. I am hoping the bits I have in my bottles will settle during conditioning. I would just like, for my next few all grain brews not to have to worry about dry hopping!!
 
Nice one. That is something to consider for future brews but this particular one I knocked up today. In the end I did 20g at 90 mins, a 40g addition at 15 mins and a 40g steep after flame out. At the moment I have no immersion chiller so the wort was more like 90 something degrees rather than the 80'c that I was aiming at as it was taking too long to drop.
Should be a quicker turnaround than with a dry hopped batch hopefully. I have some pals coming over for my birthday and I want to be able to give them some all grain homebrew!!
:hat:
 
Rather than dry hopping I am thinking now about the remainder of the hops steeping at 80'c for 30 mins. To be honest I am getting a bit fed up with the extra faff at bottling where dry hopping is concerned. I wonder how much effect this will have on the finished beer? A little less aroma but same amount/ more flavour?

If you can get pellets,( Citra or Amaillo are great),I would recommend adding 50g / 100g to primary fermentation after 3 days, once initial fermentation has slowed down. Leave for 3 days, but lower temperature down to around 12 degrees C after 24 hours (4 th day of fermentation ). Barrel, or rack onto airlock for 5 days, ale should have excellent aroma.
By dropping the temperature, this should stop the ale becoming too dry, and will assist with clearing.
 
I've read it's oxygen that kills hop aroma. No idea if it's true, but if so, leaving your fv alone as much as possible will help. I guess also dry hopping before fermentation has completely finished so that any oxygen introduced in the dry hop process is pushed out by co2.

However im no authority on this matter whatsoever and it's all speculation based on something I read which may not be true...!
 
Back
Top