SSR and Heatsink - advice needed

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Hi!
I'm about to build a controller for a recirculating mash system using two boilers and I am currently designing the control box to be permanently fixed to the wall..
I have two options open (and I have the parts to do both):
1. Mount the heatsink outside the box on an aluminium plate mounted to the rear of the box. The SSR stays inside the box but is bolted to the aluminium sheet through a hole in the side of the box. This means that the box will have to stand 5cm away from the wall, but the advantage is that I probably won't need an internal fan.
2. Mount a fan sandwiched between two sheets of perforated aluminium and mount the heatsink onto one of the aluminium sheets. This means that the fan is drawing hot air directly away from the heatsink (I will make input holes in the side of the box). However, as the height of the fan, heatsink and SSR will be almost as tall as the box itself there will be room for only two sockets on the box - the third (for the pump) will have to be on an extension wired into the system.
I have also looked at mounting the SSR and heatsink horizontally, which would allow all three sockets to be fitted, but I read that it will be less efficient at dissipating heat.
Any comments that will help?
 
Hi!
I'm about to build a controller for a recirculating mash system using two boilers and I am currently designing the control box to be permanently fixed to the wall.. ...
How big is the heatsink?

My SSRs are mounted directly on the heatsink through a hole in the case (just one big heatsink to which all three SSRs are attached). The heatsink is attached to the case. The SSRs will get hot, but attached to the heatsink the heatsink doesn't even get warm.

Ideally a heatsink should be fitted so there is uninterrupted air flow along the vanes, but if the heatsink is big enough I wouldn't worry about mounting so the vanes are vertical.

A piccie is in order perhaps (Note I put all the controls in a separate box):

(EDIT: More, including circuit diagrams, can be found here: http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=63149)

2014-03-18 07.58.42 WEB.jpg
 
Hi!
I like your set-up!
This is the type of SSR and heatsink that I'm using.
As you can see, If I mount it outside the box, to the rear, I will need to fix the box to the wall on spacers (about 5cm).

heat sink.jpg
 
Ah, those. Well mounted in that orientation doesn't comply with what I said (that the vanes are given uninterrupted vertical airflow over them). So I wouldn't be worrying about mounting them horizontally. Although the "best" orientation would be to mount them 90degrees to the picture (so the vanes go up-down not side-side like the piccie).
 
not so ;) cut a couple of diy tabs you can drill an m3 or is it m4 screw through and secure these under the screwheads of the screws securing the heatsink to the ssr. these tabs can then be screwed epoxied or simply wedged inside the box to secure.
12777965574_ed04fe6728_z.jpg


Depending on the load applied there can be a significant level of heat to dissipate, a 25a Fortek ssr is controlling 3kw of elements (2x1.5kw) and @ the 2nd vane down on the heatsink temps over 60C were recorded.
8440023604_bb6254ec12_z.jpg
 
... Depending on the load applied there can be a significant level of heat to dissipate, a 25a Fortek ssr is controlling 3kw of elements (2x1.5kw) and @ the 2nd vane down on the heatsink temps over 60C were recorded. ...
I guess that's one up for having a "big" heatsink then. I don't get any appreciable heat on the heatsink (but they are 40A SSRs, but they are controlling 6kW elements!). Given this information I would definitely mount the SSRs so the heatsink vanes orientate vertically with no interuption.
 
a lil dab of the usual heatsink compound is also worth while betwen the heatsink and ssr bottom plate.

Also whats often overlooked is earthing the SSR/heatsink less of an issue if hidden internally but when mounted externally and accessible is definatlly a worthwhile safety precaution.

Again the screws used to secure the heatsink are the ideal earthing point ;)


following the temperature recording iplanned to modify the heatsink some what by drilling in through its base centre with a cone shaped stepping drill bit (4-12mm), before using 1/2 of a ���£1 ebay 3.5" hdd disc cooler,
s-l225.jpg
hacksawed down the middle between the 2 fans is a perfect size to fit on the Heatsing base.
to drive the fans i simply piggy back off the ssr dc drive voltage so the fans pulse on/off with the ssr and elements ;)

10369507853_4c63836aa2.jpg
 
Is this for the ace boilers?? have you considered embedding all the control electrics within the bases??
I have not got/seen and ace boiler but have an old burco and grainfather/t500 style kettles all of which have a bit of a base void. I know pid controllers and stc1000's have been popped into 40l buffalo boiler base voids successfully.
 
Hi Fil,
Yes - considered it. I also thought of mounting the pump underneath the ACE and fitting a deck drain but I chickened out!
It's worth considering for the future - at the moment I have my own mancave in an old brick former washhouse. When we downsize I may consider modding the ACE to save space.
 
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