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I can't see any reason why it wouldn't be ok, you'd probably want to replace the tap with a ball valve.

I use a 40 litre Buffalo...and I do use most of the capacity....37-39 litres of water to give about 31 litres of wort pre boil to give about 24 litres final volume. The Buffalo has a vigorous boil so there's a lot of evaporation loss. I'm really glad I have the 40 litre capacity but you could get by with 30 by by topping up as you go. This lot on Ebay sometimes have supposedly damaged (I can't see the damage) 40l Buffalo for about the same price as your 30l. Mine came from there for a Best Offer of £73 delivered. Unfortunately they don't have one right now but if you can wait....
 
just a thought also , what about hop strainer when boiling your wort no strainer unless your happy to tinker with it and fit 1
 
pittsy said:
just a thought also , what about hop strainer when boiling your wort no strainer unless your happy to tinker with it and fit 1

If you replace the tap with a ball valve you use a tank connector which can be drilled out to accept a 15mm drilled copper pipe hop filter. It also gives much more control of the flow rate for sparging as you're likely to be using it as both HLT and boiler
 
If your going AG I would suggest a bigger boiler if you want to do 23L batches. It can be alot of effort and time to make AG especially at the start. If you think you going to stick with it then I would suggest a 30L boiler as a minimum. Having said that if you would rather brew smaller batches and/or prefer brewing more numerous /different brews than it looks pretty smart esp if you can fit a better tap system.

All you want to be sure of is not having to sell it for 50% less and buying a slightly bigger one in 6 months time because you want to brew more?

I built a 70 boiler and only really use it to ~50L in every 3 brews or so but I couldnt brew using my 35L plastic job because it wasnt worth the effort to make ~20L of beer... personal choice however!

That would be my advice.
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Thats great guys, ok i will look for a larger boiler. just came across it thought that may do and not bad price either.

Will keep an eye on that company on ebay.
 
All these boilers are designed to boil water to 100oC and then cut out. When you boill youre wort it will be a bit higher than 100oC, so you will never get a constant rolloing boil. For that sort of money youre looking at a gas burner and a stockpot.
 
johnnyboy1965 said:
All these boilers are designed to boil water to 100oC and then cut out. When you boill youre wort it will be a bit higher than 100oC, so you will never get a constant rolloing boil. For that sort of money youre looking at a gas burner and a stockpot.

Not the case, in a Spinal Tap's amplifier type way the Buffalo thermostat goes up to 110 C (I realise it's not going to get water or wort to go to 110). At the 110 setting it gives continuous heat which gives a strong rolling boil, if anything I'd like to be able turn it down a bit to reduce evaporation.

Some Buffalo owners have had problems getting a decent boil (search on here for Buffalo Problems or Buffalo Modifications) but plenty, including me, are getting them to work perfectly without any modification to the electrics (I did replace the tap)
 
johnnyboy1965 said:
All these boilers are designed to boil water to 100oC and then cut out. When you boill youre wort it will be a bit higher than 100oC, so you will never get a constant rolloing boil. For that sort of money youre looking at a gas burner and a stockpot.


Wrong I'm afraid, the buffalo goes up to 110oC and give a very good rolling boil, I brewed again this morning with the buffalo :thumb:

there's some piccys of mine on the forum showing the boil and why the extra space of a 40 ltr one is handy :!:

edited bit .... I see Dave posted same time as me saying pretty much the same thing :roll: Dave, after 15 mins of real hard rolling boil I throttle it back to just about 105, this works for me :thumb:
 
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