Wort cooling

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Cqr

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Good mourning fellow Brewers
I'am keen to put my first AG on, I got a 70 litre pan yesterday :electric:
I can't get a cooler antil next month
This is what I need to know, if I let my wort cool naturally over night
Will it make a big difference to the end product
I can't wait a month with somthing shiny in the shed calling me :party:
 
I fill the bath with cold water and stick my pan in there. It cools 13l to pitching temperature in about 15 minutes. So should cool yours in an hour or two, you might have to let someone water out after an hour and top back up with cold.
 
Ive found if i add 2 l of cold water to 20l it brings it down to about 80c which is meant to stop hop utilisation. I just leave it to cool overnight in a sealed FV. I made a chiller but never bothered to connect it.
This post has just completely panicked me! I did my first AG on Saturday and, due to circumstances beyond my control I left my boiler for about 90mins before I did anything about cooling. I didn't bother using hop bags or anything (I'm going to try and make a spider for next time) so the hops were left in. Am I going to have undrinkably bitter beer?
 
Hard to move a 70 litre pot to the bath from the stove.

I usually brew 3.5 - 4 gallons and transfer to the FV and top up to 5 gallons with as cold a water as I can get. In the winter I have a stock pot outside in the cold with a demijohn doing the same which will help get the temp down if you down have a cooling coil.

at other times of the year i put a few botle of water in the fridge to cool down and top up that way. my brewing is usually done in the evening so I pop the FV lid on and put it out the back to cool dpown naturally

never did any of my beer any harm
 
This post has just completely panicked me! I did my first AG on Saturday and, due to circumstances beyond my control I left my boiler for about 90mins before I did anything about cooling. I didn't bother using hop bags or anything (I'm going to try and make a spider for next time) so the hops were left in. Am I going to have undrinkably bitter beer?

Probably not just more bitter. I use the no chill option on brewers friend and it increased a little but it's not a massive amount. Good luck.
 
Rapid cooling after boiling is recommended as it halt the continued production of DMS, the sulphurous compound that can produce vegetable flavours. DMS is produced from compounds (S-Methyl Methionine) found in the malt and some will boil off as long as there is a gap in the lid or the kettle is uncovered.

After boiling the SMM conversion to DMS will continue as long as the wort remains hot and because the wort is no longer boiling it will not evaporate off so the best thing to do is to get the temp down to 30°ish as quickly as possible to inhibit the formation. For this reason even if steeping I quickly take the temp down below 80 for 30 minutes max then chill below 30°C getting ready for the yeast.

You will know if you have DMSO, an oxidised derivative of DMS as it smells like corn or at it's worst, boiled cabbage. DMS taste is more likely to be noticed in lagers and light pale ales and may not be noticed in darker or stout beers.
 
I maybe missing the point here, but why do you need to wait a month before you can sort out a cooler? Don't know how much one costs, but I made mine easy enough when I was a student and I don't think it was that expensive...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wednesbury-microbore-copper-pipe-coil-10mm-x-10m/82431

I got pipe like this, put it through a hose pipe and had made a counter flow system, though you could just make a coil to fit directly into you pot and fit hosing to the ends?
 
Rapid cooling after boiling is recommended as it halt the continued production of DMS, the sulphurous compound that can produce vegetable flavours. DMS is produced from compounds (S-Methyl Methionine) found in the malt and some will boil off as long as there is a gap in the lid or the kettle is uncovered.

After boiling the SMM conversion to DMS will continue as long as the wort remains hot and because the wort is no longer boiling it will not evaporate off so the best thing to do is to get the temp down to 30°ish as quickly as possible to inhibit the formation. For this reason even if steeping I quickly take the temp down below 80 for 30 minutes max then chill below 30°C getting ready for the yeast.

You will know if you have DMSO, an oxidised derivative of DMS as it smells like corn or at it's worst, boiled cabbage. DMS taste is more likely to be noticed in lagers and light pale ales and may not be noticed in darker or stout beers.
So the hundreds of no-chill brewers are doing it wrong?
 
I've always thought rapid chilling was to reduce the risk of infection, as it cools slowly through the temp range which is ideal for bacteria to grow... (Which I believe can be present in air)

If this is really the case then as long as it's covered post boil it should be fine.

The general consensus is that post boil the quicker you can get fermentation kicked off the lower the risk of infection.
 
I've always thought rapid chilling was to reduce the risk of infection, as it cools slowly through the temp range which is ideal for bacteria to grow... (Which I believe can be present in air)

If this is really the case then as long as it's covered post boil it should be fine.

The general consensus is that post boil the quicker you can get fermentation kicked off the lower the risk of infection.

I usually leave my wort for a couple of days covered post boil. Some people leave/store there wort in cubes for months I've read
 
I've never chilled the wort. After switch-off I transfer it to the FV after about 20minutes (to let the hops and trub settle) so it's still hot enough to sanitise the FV thoroughly. Then I put the lid on and about 5 or 6 hours later I pitch the yeast. Never had an infection. Never had any `vegetable' flavours. So I can't see the need for chilling. Basically I start brewing at about 10am, finish mid afternoon, and pitch the yeast before going to bed.
 
I've never chilled the wort. After switch-off I transfer it to the FV after about 20minutes (to let the hops and trub settle) so it's still hot enough to sanitise the FV thoroughly. Then I put the lid on and about 5 or 6 hours later I pitch the yeast. Never had an infection. Never had any `vegetable' flavours. So I can't see the need for chilling. Basically I start brewing at about 10am, finish mid afternoon, and pitch the yeast before going to bed.


I do pretty much exactly the same normally pitching around midnight but I reckon in summer I could get away with pitching in morn
 
Rapid cooling is just as important as the hot break to ensure clear ales/largers{chill haze}
 
This is true but you can get around this by chilling the beer in the fridge for about 2 weeks. The chill haze proteins form then fall to the bottom of the bottle/keg

Thats if you have the room in your fridge or can wait lol

Is it not better to cure the problem before it has started though?

Then again whats a bit chill haze?
 
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