Yeast Types & Underlying Flavors

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hamster

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Everything that I've brewed to date has been completely different in terms of recipe however there is an underlying taste that is the same throughout all beers that I'm trying to pinpoint...

The only consistencies throughout all my brewing has been Maris Otter as a base malt and I've always used Safale-05 for the yeast...

My current thinking is that the Safale yeast is potentially giving this underlying flavor to my beer. Could this be the case ? If so can folks recommend a few other equivalent yeasts to try ?

Having brewed 10 different types now I have a few favorites and want to try and make those better... I think this is where I will start

Edit: I should add pretty much 90% of the beers I've brewed are IPA type
 
what temps have you been fermenting at, US-05 is known for fermenting off clean especially when used at the lower end of the range its active within. generally well suited for light and hoppy beers even lagers..

try a pack of s-04 @18-19c for a comparison fwiw thats my failsafe always have an emergency pack ale yeast

another well known performer is nottingham aka wilco ale yeast ;)
 
Cracking stuff... Local Wilko will get a visit soon, I did think Nottingham although tempted to try a White Labs it's just the cost that puts me off. Maybe as a tester though :whistle:

Generally I tend to keep my fermentation (via fridge, inkbird etc) at @19c. I have pitched at @25c but in the fridge that settles it out overnight all depends how cool the wort come out of the grainfather...

I recently completed a Jack Hammer clone and fermented @21c as per the BrewDog sheets... Still notice that underlying flavor though not that it has effect the drink-ability much. They've been ready 2 weeks and half have been gunned down already :-?
 
Try a different base malt, it is after all the single biggest ingredient in your brew. It'd be naive to think that you won't taste it. I certainly notice the underlying breadiness of MO. Some say it's subtle but I think it's quite pronounced.
 
Could be your water. Do you do any treatments?


I love the smell of mashing in the morning.
 
Cracking stuff... Local Wilko will get a visit soon, I did think Nottingham although tempted to try a White Labs it's just the cost that puts me off. Maybe as a tester though :whistle:

If used properly liquid yeast works out cheaper. As a minimum you should get 6 23lt brews from each pack and that is for a product that is far superior. Your yeast can make up to 70% of your flavour profile so use the best you can get. Live brewers yeast is an even better choice.
 
If used properly liquid yeast works out cheaper. As a minimum you should get 6 23lt brews from each pack and that is for a product that is far superior. Your yeast can make up to 70% of your flavour profile so use the best you can get. Live brewers yeast is an even better choice.

Having only ever used dried yeast myself, I do actually feel that this could be the way forward. Dried yeast can easily be re-used with minimal effort, compared to an AG brew, and the yeast does make a huge difference.

A yeast starter is also easy to make.

One day, after 137 brews in the more recent period of HB I will definitely try it out.

US 05 is my go-to, BTW.
 
I tend to use Gervin GV12, which is allegedly Nottingham yeast. It has a low flavour profile and is highly floculant so you can pour out the whole bottle without getting a gobfull of yeast.
You said your beer was ready for 2 weeks and half was drunk. Welcome to my world, but it would be better to brew more and not drink it too young.
I'm making a note of my own advice.......................brew more. Drink when more mature.
 
I've used mainly Notty / Gervin / Wilko ( they're all the same) for many years, but recently started also using CML yeast with the same grists and I can tell you the resulting beers are very different. So yes - yeast matters.
 
try your US-05 @15-16c with a diactyl rest @ 21c for 12-24hours @ the end of primary, that should give you the cleanest fermentation while saving you the need to pitch 2 packs or build up a bigger starter population and fermenting lower US-05 will work as low as 12c iirc..
 
Just done a Mild for the old man,split it up into two seperate fv,one with ringwood smack pack,the other with dry notty yeast,had a sample yesterday both totally different,i know the beers not had its secondary yet but the Wyeast liquid yeast is sweet compared to the the dry yeast,both fermented at 20 degrees.Is this a good sign or a bad sign? and both have fermented out at 1.012
 
Try a different base malt, it is after all the single biggest ingredient in your brew. It'd be naive to think that you won't taste it. I certainly notice the underlying breadiness of MO. Some say it's subtle but I think it's quite pronounced.

Any recommendations that are similar to MO ?

If used properly liquid yeast works out cheaper. As a minimum you should get 6 23lt brews from each pack and that is for a product that is far superior. Your yeast can make up to 70% of your flavour profile so use the best you can get. Live brewers yeast is an even better choice.

I've been reading the packet instructions and it says to tip the entire thing into the FV. How can you make that last ? Or do you mean re-cultivate the yeast at the end of the brew ?

I've not even vaguely researched how to reuse the yeast from a brew, I assumed it would be a pain in the **** and not worth it. Especially as the S05 is not expensive

I tend to use Gervin GV12, which is allegedly Nottingham yeast. It has a low flavour profile and is highly floculant so you can pour out the whole bottle without getting a gobfull of yeast.
You said your beer was ready for 2 weeks and half was drunk. Welcome to my world, but it would be better to brew more and not drink it too young.
I'm making a note of my own advice.......................brew more. Drink when more mature.

I know, I know... I can't help it though and space is an issue so brewing loads is a bit of an issue. I do have a brew on to go in one of my corny kegs but up until now everything I've put into a keg hasn't been as nice as bottles so I've stuck with those...

I've always found my beer has a shelf life of around 3 months before it really loses the hop aroma and taste. Or it's maturing and I prefer it young !

try your US-05 @15-16c with a diactyl rest @ 21c for 12-24hours @ the end of primary, that should give you the cleanest fermentation while saving you the need to pitch 2 packs or build up a bigger starter population and fermenting lower US-05 will work as low as 12c iirc..

That's not a bad shout and one I've considered. I want to do another welsh red ale which to date is my favorite. Might make it he same as before but ferment at lower temp to test it out... Again problem is resisting drinking it before it matures enough :whistle:
 
Just done a Mild for the old man,split it up into two seperate fv,one with ringwood smack pack,the other with dry notty yeast,had a sample yesterday both totally different,i know the beers not had its secondary yet but the Wyeast liquid yeast is sweet compared to the the dry yeast,both fermented at 20 degrees.Is this a good sign or a bad sign? and both have fermented out at 1.012

Hmm I do have 4 demi-johns available to me... I could actually split a 20lt brew and try with 4 different yeasts...

Problem there would be temperature control on all 4...

Ah to much to try too little space and time available to do it in...
 
I've been reading the packet instructions and it says to tip the entire thing into the FV. How can you make that last ? Or do you mean re-cultivate the yeast at the end of the brew ?

There are several ways to propagate yeast. Probably the easiest is to make a starter using the whole vial/pack. I prefer a 2 litre starter but a lot use a one litre and completely ferment out and the yeast will settle on the bottle with spent wort on the top. Carefully pour off around half of the spent wort then swirl the rest to mix. Divide into 6 sterile containers and keep in the fridge. When you want to brew use a split to make a starter a few days before you brew.
 
There are several ways to propagate yeast. Probably the easiest is to make a starter using the whole vial/pack. I prefer a 2 litre starter but a lot use a one litre and completely ferment out and the yeast will settle on the bottle with spent wort on the top. Carefully pour off around half of the spent wort then swirl the rest to mix. Divide into 6 sterile containers and keep in the fridge. When you want to brew use a split to make a starter a few days before you brew.

Yeah sounds easy enough ! I've never research it but reading these earlier makes it sound very easy... I'm amazed you can keep them for so long in a fridge !

http://homebrewacademy.com/yeast-washing/
http://homebrewacademy.com/how-to-make-a-yeast-starter

I have a brew cold crashing in the fridge for 4 days now so need to get that out and kegged. Only using my S05 but will give it a go and see what happens ! Good test and learn before a more expensive liquid pack
 
I am very interested to know about the different flavour profiles of different yeasts.
I'm amazed there isn't an online resource where you can view the common types and their properties and flavours.

However I am a bit lazy and tend to just use the packaged yeast with whatever kit I get and top it up with a bit of Nottingham yeast. That way I get the profile the manufacturer wants with the kit, but ensuring it's not under pitched with something fairly neutral and reliable.

However I do like to tweak, so mix and match with yeasts would be right up my street with adding different malt extracts and light and dark sugars etc.
 
Yeah sounds easy enough ! I've never research it but reading these earlier makes it sound very easy... I'm amazed you can keep them for so long in a fridge !

http://homebrewacademy.com/yeast-washing/
http://homebrewacademy.com/how-to-make-a-yeast-starter

I have a brew cold crashing in the fridge for 4 days now so need to get that out and kegged. Only using my S05 but will give it a go and see what happens ! Good test and learn before a more expensive liquid pack

The best place for re-used yeast is under a new "green" beer, so I harvest yeast by leaving a litre or so of beer in the primary FV and giving it a good swirl before dropping the whole lot into a 2L jug and then pouring into 250ml PET bottles (ADSA lemonade). They keep fine in the fridge for a couple of months, as long as everything is carefully sterilised.

All yeasts continue to "work" even at the 3-5C fridge temps. They can just "explode" out of the bottle when pitched.
 
If your stocks are not sufficient to allow you to have a beer and let younger brews sit and mature you need to brew more ;)

for a great source for all thing yeast https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0937381969/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 is an extremity accessible read, however it should have a cover warning along the lines of "WARNING brewers will be tempted to equip a home yeast lab after reading this book" as it demystifies the whole concept and suggests a shoestring approach.
And unlike the other books in the series (well imho at least) the Yeast book is a very easy read for a layperson. i failed biology o level 40 yrs ago and have not looked at the subject in detail since... until ;)
 
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+ one for the yeast book. Any brewery who wants to progress in brewing should read it. I have not read ANY brewing book in the last 20 years that has taught me anything I did not already know until this book.
 

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