Wilko's pear cider.

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I have it going in a FV at the min so what would I transfer it into to clear before putting it in my barrel? another FV?
 
As above leave it to ferment in the fv then once that's done and started to clear up, rack into a second fv, batch prime and then bottle, sorted! :)
 
Dibison said:
As above leave it to ferment in the fv then once that's done and started to clear up, rack into a second fv, batch prime and then bottle, sorted! :)

So once its reached the required gravity in FV could I then add finings to speed up the clearing process?? then transfer into 2nd FV batch prime and then bottle??
 
samnorfolk said:
Dibison said:
As above leave it to ferment in the fv then once that's done and started to clear up, rack into a second fv, batch prime and then bottle, sorted! :)

So once its reached the required gravity in FV could I then add finings to speed up the clearing process?? then transfer into 2nd FV batch prime and then bottle??

I'd wait until the SG is stable, then add finings. That way you can be sure that the yeast has fermented all the available sugars, which limits your risk of getting "bottle bombs". If the perry is too dry for your taste you can backsweeten with artificial sweetener just before you prime.

Once primed and bottled, leave the bottles in a warm place for a fortnight (to let the yeasties chomp their way through all that lovely extra sugar) then put in the fridge for a fortnight (so the perry can reabsorb the CO2 produced by the yeast and become nice and fizzy).
 
Tim_Crowhurst said:
samnorfolk said:
Dibison said:
As above leave it to ferment in the fv then once that's done and started to clear up, rack into a second fv, batch prime and then bottle, sorted! :)

So once its reached the required gravity in FV could I then add finings to speed up the clearing process?? then transfer into 2nd FV batch prime and then bottle??

I'd wait until the SG is stable, then add finings. That way you can be sure that the yeast has fermented all the available sugars, which limits your risk of getting "bottle bombs". If the perry is too dry for your taste you can backsweeten with artificial sweetener just before you prime.

Once primed and bottled, leave the bottles in a warm place for a fortnight (to let the yeasties chomp their way through all that lovely extra sugar) then put in the fridge for a fortnight (so the perry can reabsorb the CO2 produced by the yeast and become nice and fizzy).

In terms of waiting for it to be stable do you mean a few consecutive days at the same SG?
 
samnorfolk said:
Tim_Crowhurst said:
samnorfolk said:
So once its reached the required gravity in FV could I then add finings to speed up the clearing process?? then transfer into 2nd FV batch prime and then bottle??

I'd wait until the SG is stable, then add finings. That way you can be sure that the yeast has fermented all the available sugars, which limits your risk of getting "bottle bombs". If the perry is too dry for your taste you can backsweeten with artificial sweetener just before you prime.

Once primed and bottled, leave the bottles in a warm place for a fortnight (to let the yeasties chomp their way through all that lovely extra sugar) then put in the fridge for a fortnight (so the perry can reabsorb the CO2 produced by the yeast and become nice and fizzy).

In terms of waiting for it to be stable do you mean a few consecutive days at the same SG?

Yes, although if you're lazy (like me) you can just wait until the bubbles are coming through the airlock very slowly.

Either way, it'll take a little longer, but in this hobby patience is rewarded.
 
I have found that a spoon of pectolace added at the start can help make a clearer initial brew.
It won't make it ferment any faster, but it should help give a clearer final product. :eek:
 
Hi , im new on the Cider Brewing front , done wines and never had any problems , and as Wilko were doing 50% off thought id give the pear cider a go , its supposed to be a starter easy to do kit , so what can go wrong, right!!!

well going strictly by the instructions , fermentation took 2 weeks , the smell was "wow peary" , but had a quick taste and rather dry bitter with a nasty after taste ,so I left it another week before bottling it as instructions said

its now been bottled for 2 weeks , theres slight sediment in the bottom of he bottles , even though I didn't disturb the initial sediment and tipped the last litre or so away from the brewing barrel...

I was expecting a crisp clear cider , but ive got a scrumpy coloured (not cloudy) one that tastes just awful and bitter , im hoping time will improve it ? ,

any ideas ? or should I just tip it away and make it from pure apple juice
 
Giving it time will certainly help.
I noticed that the fermenting time took much longer than stated on the tin. So much so that I now leave it for the best part of a month, then rack into a secondary fermenter for another couple of weeks. (One of the experienced brewers, ScottM has written an excellent tutorial for brewing from kits: [/url] viewtopic.php?f=48&t=34192[/url] - if you have the time/space/patience! ;) )
When you bottle condition, you will get extra sediment forming as a natural by-product of the process and all Wilko cider kits seem to generate quite light sediment which is prone to being disturbed at the slightest provocation, so maybe that will account for the sediment inside your bottles.
I have noticed an unpleasant aftertaste from young wilko cider kits, another fortnight's worth of aging should see that off...

I hope your perry gets better soon...
 
Mine turned out okay to be honest. It's clearing a touch and I learned some good lessons as a beginner in the process. Certainly very drinkable and although a touch dry I sweeten it up with a drop of either Apple Juice or the polish fruit syrups. The biggest problem is not drinking it to be honest!
 
So my pear cider kit has stopped at 1.004 my question is as it has stopped can i leave it in the primary vessel and add finings as i dont have another FV free at present (my other one currently has some Malic TC going in it). Ive heard from a friend once his has finished fermenting he then bottled it up and left it to clear that way.....
 
samnorfolk said:
Dibison said:
As above leave it to ferment in the fv then once that's done and started to clear up, rack into a second fv, batch prime and then bottle, sorted! :)

So once its reached the required gravity in FV could I then add finings to speed up the clearing process?? then transfer into 2nd FV batch prime and then bottle??

What amount of sugar would you add to batch prime 20litres worth? ive never batched primed before is it just a case of measuring it out and chucking it in?
 
The 2 20L batches I've done I used about 150-160g (I have **** scales) the mixed berry I am drinking just now has a perfect fizz IMO :cheers:
 
So my kit stopped at 1004.. racked it into another FV and added some finings then left it for a few more days. Ive now bottled it up as I need the FV and it still seems pretty cloudy (guessing I should have left it longer before bottling) tasted quite drinkable though. Will it clear in the bottles and can I actually drink it now??
 
the recommended sugar for priming on the instructions was 1 teaspoon per pint , far too much , ive now got exploding cider , which just foams for ages ... 2nd batch ive done 1 teaspoon per 2 litres , much better,

still has a funny taste though
 
Sort of reviving this thread...

Mine is still going after almost 2 weeks, a blip ever minute or so. I'm being patient and waiting.

Due to the problems clearing this kit - should I invest in some finings, let them work their magic, and then prime? I'm only planning on doing 2l PET bottles (saving the glass ones for an ale).

I like cloudy scrumpy, but for a pear cider kit I'd like it clear and fizzy.
 
I'm unsure how long to wait now as It's been over 3 weeks. I'm now getting one blip in the airlock every two minutes or so. Can I presume fermentation is complete? Or should I Just let it keep going ... it seems never ending!
 
You need to take the gravity to be sure buddy but I'd be surprised if the bubbles you're seeing are not just because of a poor seal.
 
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