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Old 19-06-2017, 09:49 AM   #1
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Default Conical or not

I can not make a decision, my FV really need changing and I want to go stainless. I really want to be able to do closed transfers to keg and also do not want to limit myself in the future so as I see it i've got three options:

7 Gal Conical which is expensive and I'd need a new fridge for temps.
A SS brew bucket which I would have to convert for pressure transfer and would be almost the cost of the conical and I'm not keen on the tap. But it does fit my current fridge.
Stainless bucket with Tri clamp fittings, cheapest option and even has butterfly valve.

Head says bucket but I've a nagging feeling I should get the conical, anyone got one that regrets it ? Its a lot of cash I have to explain to my wife lol
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Old 19-06-2017, 10:35 AM   #2
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Sorry I can't help except to say you could read the Coopers thread about them.
I wouldn't mind one but not fitting in the fridge just wouldn't work for me.
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Old 19-06-2017, 11:48 AM   #3
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I bought the brewtech 10L conical mini bucket

I have only used it once and the tap got blocked with hop debris, the quality of the bucket is good.
Will try another brew but I still prefer my old plastic FV
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Old 19-06-2017, 11:49 AM   #4
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Conical fermenters are certainly convenient. Sampling ports are the icing on the cake. When you think Primary fermentation is done there is no question of racking into a secondary, there's no need. The conical section subjects your beer to a much reduced surface area of old yeast which can be (the old yeast that is) dumped through the port in the bottom if so desired. Fit an airlock and your beer is effectively in its secondary fermenter (dry hops? They can go in now as mine did yesterday, but this is the first time I've tried it).

On stainless steel models you might be able to fit an stainless steel air-stone to the dump port to initially aerate the wort before fermentation. That's what I did.

There are suggestions that the shape creates currents in the beer thus speeding fermentation. I can't prove this, but perhaps I expect beer (sub-1050) to ferment out in two days rather than three. My last brew went in a bit warm (20.5C) and crept up to 21.5. It went 1040 to 1010 (expected FG) within 24 hours! But it kept going for another 24 hours to get an FG of 1007. Some come with temperature control (loads of money), I'm retro-fitting mine with PVC tubing wraps and neoprene sheet, all fed from a shelf-chiller and Inkbird ICT308 controller.

(EDIT: I don't do closed transfers to the kegs, but fit (tri-clamp) a 12V pump and hoses to the racking port and fill the kegs with that. I do 45-65L runs in this fermenter, it's a big 'in. Shame you can't get them anymore.)
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Old 19-06-2017, 12:06 PM   #5
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Just to throw a wildcard out there, have you considered a FastFerment? Probably the cheapest option and I really like mine. It has a yeast collection ball which is really useful as well. If this isn't something you'll consider then no worries.
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Old 19-06-2017, 02:38 PM   #6
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Default conical

i have the brewmaster 7 gal and love it, easy to use and clean.

i pondered for some time as to what to get and in the end spent the money on the brewmaster version with a maxicool 110 and inkbird.

the temp is now +/- .5 deg and the resulting raw fermented wort tastes far better than conditioned ale i made years ago.

i have only put kits through this to make sure it all works and now considering either AG brewing or BIAB, the costs are ramping up a bit now as the bug bites hard but my view is push the cost limits and the results are more consistent.

i feel that this is a head/heart issue but go with the best you can afford.

good luck.
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