Using an "ACE" tea urn as a mash tun.

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oldjiver

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Hi, I am new here (but have been brewing a long time) so please direct me if this has been discussed before. I have just bought a new 25 litre ACE tea urn. It has a thermostatic control and will go up to 110 degrees. I was planning to just use it as a wort boiler, but I have had a new idea!!
I usually use an insulated container to mash and then transfer it to a 10ltr bucket with tap and sparge bag to fly sparge into a boiler. (I have only been doing 10ltr brews as I am disabled and lifting 25ltrs is a bit much for me).
It occurred to me that I could mash in the 10ltr bucket get it to the right temp. and then, as it will fit in the boiler, float it in the boiler with the thermostat set at the same temp as the mash. The boiler will click on and off keeping the water within + -3deg. and the bucket should hold mash temp as long as I like. I could put a jacket round the boiler for even more temp stability.
Anyone tried anything similar?
 
Had a brewup today. Wife in holiday home, got the kitchen all to myself
I decided to use the ACE tea urn as a mash tun, as well as a boiler. Worked a treat!!
My water is chalky so I boiled 25 litres of water with a teaspoon of gypsum for 15 minutes then after a rest while the chalk precipitated to the bottom I transferred the liquor to another tub.
I tied the sparge bag to the lip of the ACE so it was away from the bottom of the ACE, put in 15 litres of liquor at 166 deg. Added 3 kg of pale malt (dont ask what sort I just get it cheap from the local microbrewer) and 75gm of crystal. Settled out at 155, as I ldont like beer too dry. I insulated the urn with 4 metres of bubble wrap £1 from Asda, I will do something more permanent next time. Checked after 15 minutes, down 1 degree, checked again after 45 minutes down to 152, after 90 it was 151. I have found the thermostat will click in at 155, but goes up about 5 degrees before turning off, thats too much. So Each time I lifted the lid to check I gave it a 30 second burst to replace the heat lost.
After 90 minutes I drained the boiler, ran quite clear, got 10 litres out. (2 litre under tap) Refilled at 168 deg to get 19 litres. Boiled 90 minutes.
Added 20gm Fuggles after 30 minutes, and 10gm goldings after 1 hour. Irish moss for final 15 minutes.
Finished with 15 litres at 48 deg ( I think that 80% extraction) I am pleased with that for a first go with this equipment, I think I could do better next time.
Wort clear with good colour, I always use youngs ale yeast should be a nice light bitter.
 
Heres some pics,

b61b3d14.jpg


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I might add that after two brews I have found the "ACE" has the annoying habit of turning itself off once or twice during a boil. Comes back on again and gives rolling boil again. Outages last about 5 minutes before it clicks back on. Annoying but not crucial.
 
Beer came out very nice, one of the best I have made. Slightly too sweet at first tasting, but has settled out now. Probably slowly fermenting dextrins in bottle. Worth leaving a few weeks I think. I have made some mild since then, which I will probably drink first.
 
I might add that after two brews I have found the "ACE" has the annoying habit of turning itself off once or twice during a boil. Comes back on again and gives rolling boil again. Outages last about 5 minutes before it clicks back on. Annoying but not crucial.

[FONT=&quot]I sent off an E-mail yesterday to 'ACE'[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [FONT=&quot]regarding the [/FONT]boiler's tendancy to cut out for a short time during the boil period. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]This morning I received a reply from Ian at ACE[/FONT][FONT=&quot] which I hope will be of interest.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I have to say i'm well impressed by their speedy and comprehensive response...excellent![/FONT][FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]'There are 2 thermal cut outs in the machine (1 automatically resetting, 1 thermal fuse) and also the thermostat on the front[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The 110oC thermostat will cut out if gets above 110oC, as it is not in the water it may be the case that the machines underside could reach above this temperature as the heat will gradually get hotter the longer the machine is on and this will make the machine cut out, that could be moved away slightly from the base or a higher front thermostat above 110oc fitted[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]It could also be a thermostat that should be 110oc is calibrated slightly under the 110oC as this part can have a + or �" 5oC tolerance so maybe set at actually 105oc and the heating from the element is conducting heat from the element to the capillary tube on the thermostat though the metal on the base of the machine[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Yes it is true the lower thermal cut out is there to save the wiring and element from burning out if boiling for long periods of time and you may have solved this by what you have said. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] I will ask the manufacture to either place this thermal cut out in a different position or higher the cut out temperature of this part[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The higher thermal fuse will blow if goes above 192oc and this should not be tampered with as this is a last resort for the machine if the element gets out of control.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I will be in contact with the supplier to improve the machines so that they will be able to hold a rolling boiler for up to 2 hours'[/FONT]
 
I haven't bought one yet as i'm waiting until they bring out the modified version which I understand will be early next year.
 
what are they modifying? the cutout or more?

been told I can have one for xmas :lol:

Ian at ACE e-mailed me to say that they are developing their mash tun/boiler so it provides accurate temperature control (hold at temps between 50 to 75oc - for the mash) and improve the thermostat to avoid cut outs and give it the ability to hold a rolling boil for 2 hours.

They are also planning on introducing 2 elements (900 and 1600 watt) to improve temperature control, so the user can choose 900-1600-2500 watt power settings.
They also intend to supply a grain bag too:)
 
:thumb: Recommend one for you.


Ian at ACE e-mailed me to say that they are developing their mash tun/boiler so it provides accurate temperature control (hold at temps between 50 to 75oc - for the mash) and improve the thermostat to avoid cut outs and give it the ability to hold a rolling boil for 2 hours.

They are also planning on introducing 2 elements (900 and 1600 watt) to improve temperature control, so the user can choose 900-1600-2500 watt power settings.
They also intend to supply a grain bag too:)
 
any idea if the upgrade has happened yet? or who do i contact to find out... my buffalo went back last week as it was faulty
 
It's out now as "Ace Mash Tun" on ebay for about �£150 depending on the accessories. One version has a bazooka and another has a false bottom. Unfortunately they refer to both as a "bottom filter" so be careful to order the right one. Ideally you would want both but they don't offer that an no longer sell the false bottom separately but maybe you could contact them as the used to sell it for �£30. Both versions appear to come with a nylon grain bag.

I suppose if you use the bag then you don't need a false bottom. However maybe if you aim to do recirculation then using the false bottom would be preferable to using a bag. Either way you don't want grain to be touching the element. It's nice to have the bazooka if using it to boil, but you could also just use a muslin bag on the outside of the tap.

Now they offer a Ace Microbrewery that has both the bazooka and false bottom, and includes a grain basket instead of bag, and even a recirculation pump. Double the price though. Only thing missing is a chiller but you could have one of those custom made by another ebayer, e.g. for the extra tall tails needed compared to a normal boil pot.
 

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