Burco 30ltr boiler (tea urn)

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Just a wee note on what I did..
Being lazy by nature, on my buffalo, I simply unscrewed the whole safety cut out and the thermostat and taped them to the lower sidewall. The advantage of this is that the thermostat still works but registers lower than 100deg for boil so you can get it to cut out if you are using it for purposes other than boil by rotating it to cut out at a certain temp.
Also it is a bit safer as if you accidentally leave it on while dry it won't drip molten element metal onto your floor (experience talking).
Just be sure and leave no exposed wires on metal or where they might meet liquid now kids..
Or do what I did and have it on in a bath of water while holding the tap... Thanks to modern circuit beakers, amen.
 
BeerCat said:
I have a buffalo but looks exactly the same. All i did was unscrew the temp sensor (the long silver thing bottom right) and tape it against the side wall. Over 50 brews and no problem. I know there are other ways but thats what i did.
Click to expand...
Great minds.. I think the newer ones have a doohickey on the element also. I had to do the same with this.
 
I did this mod 4 years ago and use it every week for 90 minutes. Just had a socket overheat, electrician changed the socket and inspected all the wiring and said there was no evidence at all of cables being too hot. I also built a TRIAC voltage controller to control the severity of the boil and to make it easier to hold a mash temperature of 70 to 71 deg C
 
hobbsy83 said:
Hello all,

Sorry to kick start an old post, but I thought this would be the best place to ask something.

I too have a 30 litre Burco, it's a new one - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cygnet-MFCT1030 ... 680&sr=8-1

It's great at holding a rolling boil, but I need to be able to control the temperature a little better. At the moment if i turn it down a notch the thermostat kicks in and the temp jumps up and down, I need to be able to hold it at a certain temp.

I think i've worked out what I need to do, remove the Thermostat, and rig up a Phase angle controller, but I don't want to blow myself or my garage up in the process! So, would this phase angle controller be able to cope with the Burco? - http://ualstore.co.uk/a14232-qvr-s-tb-rfi-230v.html

When I get the chance I'll post a pic of the insides of the Burco (it's got a wierd triangle type screw that I can't get out)

ta!

Paul
Click to expand...
I have a phase angle controller that feeds the Burco - no problems at all
 
Last edited by a moderator:
malhal said:
I'm interested in making the Burco do a constant boil while also keeping the thermostat in the circuit (for sparge temps).
Click to expand...
Hi Malhal, Here is a circuit diagram of the Burco URN. If you want to retain the Burco as a normal "variable" temperature boiler but have the ability of having it do a "rolling boil" for a brew you need to modify it with a suitable switch - suitable for 10Amps minimum - with wiring as shown below. When the switch is made the full power is fed to the heating element but the boiler retains the "boil dry" cutout for safety. I hope this helps.

If anyone else has a problem with modifying an Urn I have full instructions elsewhere on here that may help. I use an urn for all my brews and it has been modified with a similar switch arrangement as below - works a treat.

upload_2018-7-28_23-14-50.png
 
BeerCat said:
I have a buffalo but looks exactly the same. All i did was unscrew the temp sensor (the long silver thing bottom right) and tape it against the side wall. Over 50 brews and no problem. I know there are other ways but thats what i did.
Click to expand...

Hi!

On my Buffalo, I undid the temperature sensor, put it inside a length of silicon tubing and replaced it - I saw it somewhere online. The idea is that it will allow a higher temperature before it cuts out.
The doohickey in the centre with blue and red wires going into it is (I assume) the boil-dry safety cut out. I simply by-passed it as I don't intend to use it as anything but a boiler and it won't be left unattended.
I've not tried it on a boil yet, but it heats the water up when I tested it.
 
Last edited:
AlanHarper said:
Hi Malhal, Here is a circuit diagram of the Burco URN. If you want to retain the Burco as a normal "variable" temperature boiler but have the ability of having it do a "rolling boil" for a brew you need to modify it with a suitable switch - suitable for 10Amps minimum - with wiring as shown below. When the switch is made the full power is fed to the heating element but the boiler retains the "boil dry" cutout for safety. I hope this helps.

If anyone else has a problem with modifying an Urn I have full instructions elsewhere on here that may help. I use an urn for all my brews and it has been modified with a similar switch arrangement as below - works a treat.

View attachment 14658
Click to expand...
The boil dry function tends to cut out the boil, especially for high gravity work I found on other urns. I just unscrewed it and taped it but you could easily just bypass it.
Good idea to add a circuit to the thermo though, I just taped mine to the sidewall so it reads a lower temp than actual. OK for hlt purposes, but use an stc 1000 for precision.
 
I'll move the long silver temperature probe and tape it to the side of the vessel away from the heat. That much I can manage without too much risk of electrocuting myself.

Do I need to think about bypassing the "doohickey" in the centre too? The black button is the reset switch, but not sure what the rest of the wiring is doing or how best to bypass.
 
divrack said:
The boil dry function tends to cut out the boil, especially for high gravity work I found on other urns. I just unscrewed it and taped it but you could easily just bypass it.
Good idea to add a circuit to the thermo though, I just taped mine to the sidewall so it reads a lower temp than actual. OK for hlt purposes, but use an stc 1000 for precision.
Click to expand...


the Boil Dry Thermo Cut out is the one set to 135C just below the Element in the diagram. That won't cut out untill 135C is reached. It is the other cutout - in line with the thermostat - is the one that stops a full boil. The Boil Override switch shorts out the limiting cut out and the thermostat so power is always delivered to the element - hence the rolling boil.
 
AlanHarper said:
the Boil Dry Thermo Cut out is the one set to 135C just below the Element in the diagram. That won't cut out untill 135C is reached. It is the other cutout - in line with the thermostat - is the one that stops a full boil. The Boil Override switch shorts out the limiting cut out and the thermostat so power is always delivered to the element - hence the rolling boil.
Click to expand...

Thanks. So short answer is just to move the probe thing as I'm not going to be getting anywhere near to 135C boiling wort. athumb..
 
-Bezza- said:
Thanks. So short answer is just to move the probe thing as I'm not going to be getting anywhere near to 135C boiling wort. athumb..
Click to expand...

Hi Bezza,

If the circuit diagram above IS of your Burco boiler (there are many versions out there but I am making the assumption that it IS the correct version) then the "probe thing" you are talking about is the thermal detector (probe) for the THERMOSTAT that should look like this:
upload_2018-7-30_18-22-23.png
this, together with the control, will regulate the temperature to which the boiler will rise too depending on the number of the control knob - the higher the number the higher the temperature (there is a scale of the settings somewhere in the handbook - I'll post it later). Moving the location of the probe will NOT make the boiler reach 100C as the the LIMIT THERMOSTAT (actually a Thermal Cut Out - TCO) will limit the temperature to 97C.
This should look something like this:
upload_2018-7-30_18-30-58.png

(the switching temperature is usually found on the base such as this one that will switch at 92C)
upload_2018-7-30_19-0-20.png


and is fixed to the base of the boiler, as is the PROBE.
The only way to bypass this cut out is to take it out of circuit altogether. The easiest way is to join the wires attached to the TCO by joining them together using a male- male connector such as this:
upload_2018-7-30_18-35-32.png
. This will allow the water to reach the limit of the THERMOSTAT which, if it is the Burco type 082620290, is 107C - BUT ONLY IF YOU DO NOT MOVE THE PROBE.

If you are NOT happy about working with the mains wiring then I suggest you get an electrician to do the modifications - ANY DISCONNECTED WIRING MUST BE ADEQUATELY INSULATED - PLASTIC TAPE IS NOT ENOUGH. I don't want you to hurt yourself - or anyone else for that matter so sorry if you do know what you are doing and this seems over the top.

The best way - as I have suggested earlier is to bypass the TCO and the Thermostat altogether with a switch that over-rides the control forcing a boil. The Boil-Dry cut out will keep it safe and the control will mean you can still heat water for Mashing and Sparge.

The Control settings SHOULD equate to the following temperature range:
upload_2018-7-30_18-54-29.png


I hope this helps and I'm sorry if the diagram does not match your boiler exactly, as I said there are many variations and I don't know which one yours is.

The main thing is BE CAREFUL WITH MAINS.

Good brewing.

Alan
 
AlanHarper said:
Hi Bezza,

If the circuit diagram above IS of your Burco boiler (there are many versions out there but I am making the assumption that it IS the correct version) then the "probe thing" you are talking about is the thermal detector (probe) for the THERMOSTAT that should look like this:
View attachment 14691 this, together with the control, will regulate the temperature to which the boiler will rise too depending on the number of the control knob - the higher the number the higher the temperature (there is a scale of the settings somewhere in the handbook - I'll post it later). Moving the location of the probe will NOT make the boiler reach 100C as the the LIMIT THERMOSTAT (actually a Thermal Cut Out - TCO) will limit the temperature to 97C.
This should look something like this: View attachment 14692
(the switching temperature is usually found on the base such as this one that will switch at 92C) View attachment 14695

and is fixed to the base of the boiler, as is the PROBE.
The only way to bypass this cut out is to take it out of circuit altogether. The easiest way is to join the wires attached to the TCO by joining them together using a male- male connector such as this: View attachment 14693. This will allow the water to reach the limit of the THERMOSTAT which, if it is the Burco type 082620290, is 107C - BUT ONLY IF YOU DO NOT MOVE THE PROBE.

If you are NOT happy about working with the mains wiring then I suggest you get an electrician to do the modifications - ANY DISCONNECTED WIRING MUST BE ADEQUATELY INSULATED - PLASTIC TAPE IS NOT ENOUGH. I don't want you to hurt yourself - or anyone else for that matter so sorry if you do know what you are doing and this seems over the top.

The best way - as I have suggested earlier is to bypass the TCO and the Thermostat altogether with a switch that over-rides the control forcing a boil. The Boil-Dry cut out will keep it safe and the control will mean you can still heat water for Mashing and Sparge.

The Control settings SHOULD equate to the following temperature range:View attachment 14694

I hope this helps and I'm sorry if the diagram does not match your boiler exactly, as I said there are many variations and I don't know which one yours is.

The main thing is BE CAREFUL WITH MAINS.

Good brewing.

Alan
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed post. I'm reasonably comfortable with basic electrics and multimeters but similarly know when to stop, so I hope I would have the sense to not blow myself up.

The one thing I'm not quite following is whether I have only one TCO or two (as shown in the wiring diagram).

If you look at the pic I uploaded, the only thing that looks like a TCO is right in the centre which would suggest there is only one. However, there are 4 wires going into it - the live and neutral coming from the mains and a live and neutral going to the element and thermostat respectively, whereas the wiring diagram only suggests two wires. I need to unscrew this and have a proper look when I have a moment but, unless this one central doohicky is acting as both TCOs somehow, then I would think I have something a bit different. However, if there is only one TCO, I can't see the logic in having the return circuit wired through here too.

The other thing I want to figure out, as I can't see any particular logic to it, is why the live from the mains is going through the base of the boiler. Perhaps that's just an optical illusion in the photo.

I assume you are suggesting to NOT move the probe to ensure that there is some form of thermal cut-out, i.e. the thermostat cutting out at 110C which is the limit of the thermostat, rather than being free to climb to whatever temp it can (which would be dangerous)?
 
Hi Bezza,

Yes now I see the boiler you have I have looked at the circuit diagram and, you are correct, you only have one TCO - the boil-dry cutout - it is the one in the centre that can be manually reset if required.
upload_2018-7-31_15-11-40.png


Looking at it the boiler is so simple - and the manual says that position 6 goes to 100C so it looks like you do not need any mods at all.

My drivel above is for a different boiler after all.

As for moving the probe - that has no effect on the Boil Dry TCO it only regulates what the control thermostat switched out at.
 
AlanHarper said:
Hi Bezza,

Yes now I see the boiler you have I have looked at the circuit diagram and, you are correct, you only have one TCO - the boil-dry cutout - it is the one in the centre that can be manually reset if required.
View attachment 14714

Looking at it the boiler is so simple - and the manual says that position 6 goes to 100C so it looks like you do not need any mods at all.

My drivel above is for a different boiler after all.

As for moving the probe - that has no effect on the Boil Dry TCO it only regulates what the control thermostat switched out at.
Click to expand...

Thanks again.

The Amazon description says it goes to 95C but the thermostat itself says it should go to 110C. Guess the only thing to do is give it a bit of a test and see what happens.

I'll put 10l of water in there and see what temp things get to and whether the thermostat turns off set to "max". If not, I'll add a can of LME and test again. If we're not cutting out, we should be good for a rolling boil. Plus I can make 10l of crappy lager!
 
-Bezza- said:
Thanks again.

The Amazon description says it goes to 95C but the thermostat itself says it should go to 110C. Guess the only thing to do is give it a bit of a test and see what happens.

I'll put 10l of water in there and see what temp things get to and whether the thermostat turns off set to "max". If not, I'll add a can of LME and test again. If we're not cutting out, we should be good for a rolling boil. Plus I can make 10l of crappy lager!
Click to expand...


If yo udon't have it already here is a link to the manual: https://www.hygienesuppliesdirect.com/files/static/burcomanual.pdf
 
If it's the same as my buffalo which I reckon it is you'll want to bypass or simply remove it. Mine would boil a bit and cut out a bit. Massive pita trying to do electrics under 30ltrs of hot wort with one hand holding it balanced on a chair.. especially when I realised id not unplugged it. Shocking situation
 
20180805_204716.jpg
Looks like my TCO cuts out at 140C based on the markings on the bottom. So shouldn't need any modification at this rate. Test day is Saturday so will see how it performs.
 
Hi I’m new to the forum and came here because of this post after realising the Burco I picked up on eBay wouldn’t maintain a boil. I ended up bypassing the 1st cut off switch (mine has two), putting a bypass switch around the existing thermostat and installed a simmer stat in series with it. I use the boiler as an HLT using the thermostat with simmer stat on max, then when boiling the wort I bypass the thermostat and use the simmer stat to maintain a gentle boil. I found it was far too aggressive on full power. I can post some pics and parts etc if anyone is interested. It was pretty easy to do if you’re comfortable with simple wiring mods.
 

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