cheap quick disconnects for brewery build?

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Newtons Shed

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I'm looking at getting some silicone hose from the forum (when it's back in stock) which has 1/2" i/d to use in my new rebuild system, I will have two tubes one to the inflow of the pump and the other on the outflow with one end fixed to the pump and the other end needs to move along the process ie from hlt to the mt, boiler and plate chiller. I was orginally thinking of just using 15mm compression fittings on the free end so I could simply unscreww from one ball valve and re screw onto another ball valve. I don't need/want a camlock set up yet as too expensive for my current equipment but wondered if there is a better budget way to have inline disconnects? I did also think of using hose barbs but a) I would need a swivel type and b) I don't see the advantage over just using my first idea of copper tubing with a olive and nut. I would need 6 of one (ie male) type and 2 of the other (ie female or vice versa)
 
I'm sure it would work, though the olives tend to get stuck on the tube, but if you're unscrewing the fitting rather than just releasing the tube then it would be okay - you could leave the nut and ollive on the tube. I know some people have just used releasable push-fit connectors, but I found them a bit fiddly and they seemed to wear the copper tube each use.

Instead, I use brass tap connectors with a bit of pipe in as a hose barb. I also replaced the washer they normally have with a suitably sized rubber O-ring, so that you can hand tighten them to a good seal. The tanks have a male BSP thread to screw them onto.

My tanks are quite large so I went with 3/4"BSP, but I'm sure you could use 1/2"BSP as well - in fact I think the standard 15mm compression nuts/threads you get on lever taps may be 1/2"BSP.

Cheers
Kev
 
Having had a quick look at those cone seat unions am I right in thinking they're like a female socket on both ends? If so I guess as you unscrew it both ends come undone? ie hose tail to male thread on pipe and ball valve male thread on the other with the union seat cone screwed in the middle, would it be a bit fiddly to line both threads to screw the union on or am I missing something>?

I'm just a bit worried of the threads on the ball valves becoming cross threaded if screwing things on/off all the time in the middle of brew day.

What are the brass camlocks like? I think as I need 6 of one type and 2 of the other in ss at £8 each be £64 whereas the brass are £34.
 

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