How to fit a ball valve and hop stopper to a Buffalo boiler

This How To shows how to fit a ball valve and a hop stopper to a 40L Buffalo boiler. It doesn't require any cutting or drilling. And it's all shiny!

Here are the bits you need:


PTFE tape - I already had this but you can get it from many DIY shops such as Wilko or BES.

From BES:
14557 3/8" BSP TM, Stainless steel hose tail adaptor
20306 3/8" BSP Stainless steel 2-piece ball valve (I wouldn't recommend the 1-piece as it is reduced bore)
20176 3/4" Kevlar washer (yes, three quarters of an inch)
14461 3/8" BSP Stainless steel parallel nipple
14321 1/2" x 3/8" BSP Stainless steel reducing socket

From the Home Brew Shop:
846190 Bazooka 12" Large Mash / Hop Screen
I also got my 3/8" silicone tubing from here (part 400001).

And, of course, you will need a 40L manual fill Buffalo boiler. I got mine quite cheaply from the Nisbets clearance store on eBay.

Firstly, you need to remove the original tap from the boiler. It's only hand tight so it comes off without any tools.


Next, screw the parallel nipple into the ball valve and put the kevlar washer on the nipple:


Screw the bazooka screen into the reducing socket. The male thread is taper so it doesn't screw all the way into the socket:


Put the valve and nipple through the hole on the outside of the boiler:


and screw the coupler onto the nipple on the inside of the boiler:



It's a bit fiddly to do this as you can't freely turn the hop stopper. However, it isn't too hard to do so persevere. Get it as tight as you can but with the handle at the top. Again, it only needs to be hand tight for a good seal.

Finally, wrap some PTFE tape around the male thread on the hose tale adaptor and screw it into the ball valve:


The silicone hose easily pushes onto the barb and seals perfectly.

I suggest you make sure everything is tight before you use the boiler each time.

I have done this with the 40L Buffalo boiler but it looks like it should also work with the 30L Buffalo as it is the same diameter.

Nice one, I've been meaning to upgrade the drum tap on my cooler box mash tun. Will probably use this, cheers T

Good work fella :

Well done rpt :clap: :thumb:

Did you also use ptfe tape on the inside of the boiler? I found that even with washers there was a leak through the thread there, even if the hose connector joint was taped...
DA

Nice write-up. :thumb:

How easy is it to remove the bazooka hop filter for cleaning? My home-made job is starting to annoy me and I'm considering doing something like this.

DethApostle said:

Did you also use ptfe tape on the inside of the boiler? I found that even with washers there was a leak through the thread there, even if the hose connector joint was taped...
DA

Click to expand...

No. The only PTFE tape is on the hose barb's male taper thread. There's no need for tape on the joints inside the boiler since it doesn't matter if it leaks (we want liquid to get from the boiler into the pipe). The washer seals the boiler wall.

bunkerbrewer said:

How easy is it to remove the bazooka hop filter for cleaning?

Click to expand...

You would have to remove the tap since the hop filter won't turn on its own - there is a clamp that sticks out and the tap is quite close to the boiler bottom. I haven't yet done a brew but I'm hoping that it will clean up well afterwards with a boil of oxy clean or citric acid.

rpt said:

You would have to remove the tap since the hop filter won't turn on its own - there is a clamp that sticks out and the tap is quite close to the boiler bottom. I haven't yet done a brew but I'm hoping that it will clean up well afterwards with a boil of oxy clean or citric acid.

Click to expand...

Makes sense, cheers. I suppose it doesn't hurt to remove the tap for an occasional clean anyway.

rpt said:

DethApostle said:

Did you also use ptfe tape on the inside of the boiler? I found that even with washers there was a leak through the thread there, even if the hose connector joint was taped...
DA

Click to expand...

No. The only PTFE tape is on the hose barb's male taper thread. There's no need for tape on the joints inside the boiler since it doesn't matter if it leaks (we want liquid to get from the boiler into the pipe). The washer seals the boiler wall..

Click to expand...

I thought/hoped for the same, but when I filled the boiler I had a small drip form from the join between the tank and washer. Under low pressure it didn't occur but once you got c. 10l in there then the drip appeared! It was a bit fiddly to get the PTFE on the inside thread but once it was on there the drip stopped completely.

rpt said:

bunkerbrewer said:

How easy is it to remove the bazooka hop filter for cleaning?

Click to expand...

You would have to remove the tap since the hop filter won't turn on its own - there is a clamp that sticks out and the tap is quite close to the boiler bottom. I haven't yet done a brew but I'm hoping that it will clean up well afterwards with a boil of oxy clean or citric acid.

Click to expand...

On my set up, as I widened the hole to accomodate 1/2" BSP I purposefully cut with the Qmax slightly off centre and so raised the hole height. I still had issue fitting the bazooka though as the clamp sticks out just enough to rub against the ridged bottom of the boiler. You can 'crush' the clamp with a pair of pliers which then allows it to be unscrewed so you can clean underneath, however this does weaken the clamp and you will have to take more care with it in the future!
My build uses slightly different parts but for the purposes of contrasting styles and similar issues check it out here!
DA!

DethApostle said:

rpt said:

DethApostle said:

Did you also use ptfe tape on the inside of the boiler? I found that even with washers there was a leak through the thread there, even if the hose connector joint was taped...
DA

Click to expand...

No. The only PTFE tape is on the hose barb's male taper thread. There's no need for tape on the joints inside the boiler since it doesn't matter if it leaks (we want liquid to get from the boiler into the pipe). The washer seals the boiler wall..

Click to expand...

I thought/hoped for the same, but when I filled the boiler I had a small drip form from the join between the tank and washer. Under low pressure it didn't occur but once you got c. 10l in there then the drip appeared! It was a bit fiddly to get the PTFE on the inside thread but once it was on there the drip stopped completely.

Click to expand...

I've had no leaks at all so far. I've filled to 40L and I've boiled about 20L and no issues. Hopefully it will still be OK when I boil 35L of wort.

It was your post that pointed me at the bazooka screen I've used. So thanks for that.

ordered up the parts, will report back on how I get on, but hope to have it all installed and in use for a weeks time when my next brew day is scheduled :thumb:

well I had the bits turn up and I have screwed it all into place... the only difference being I put a washer inside and outside. I did wonder about using the existing internal rubber washer?

any thoughts?

30litres just coming to the boil, no leaks, all looking good :thumb:

You just need a washer on the outside. You could use the washer that came with the boiler - that goes on the outside too. But since what you have done works then that's fine.

just to report that the tap and hop filter assembly performed flawlessly yesterday, many thanks for the how to :thumb:

Great 'how to' and pics r, thank you :thumb:

I'm thinking of buying a buffalo boiler but why do you need a ball valve? , is there any other way of fitting a hop filter ? and will I need a hop screen to protect the element? :wha:

A very good well presented informative how to do with good item links... :thumb:

BB

Pearlfisher said:

I'm thinking of buying a buffalo boiler but why do you need a ball valve? , is there any other way of fitting a hop filter ? and will I need a hop screen to protect the element? :wha:

Click to expand...

Can't answer the fitting a hop filter bit as I don't own a Buffalo boiler.

I did however very nearly buy one and the newer Buffalo's have a concealed element under the floor of the boiler which makes cleaning a breeze I would imagine. Also negates the need to protect the element although most boilers have exposed elements with no protection.

Pearlfisher said:

I'm thinking of buying a buffalo boiler but why do you need a ball valve? , is there any other way of fitting a hop filter ? and will I need a hop screen to protect the element? :wha:

Click to expand...

The tap that comes with the Buffalo doesn't stay on as it has a spring - you have to hold it while emptying 23L into your fermenter. Some people have filed it to allow it to stay on. I believe a Brupaks hop filter will push into the outlet. But you can't beat a nice shiny ball valve. I'm also not sure how you add hose to the supplied tap.