Hop rocket versus dry hopping

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timbowden

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Hi All,
I'm still in the early days of using my Hop Rocket and wondered whether anyone knows whether using a hop rocket after the boil when transferring into the FV is better (for nice hoppy aroma) than dry hopping? I've always found it difficult to fully submerge my hops in muslin bags therefore maybe not getting the full effect.
Any help appreciated!

tim
 
Marbles. Sterilised of course, help weigh down the bag. Works a charm. As for the hop rocket, can't comment at the moment I'm afraid, still in the process of building one!
 
I read an article which suggested dry hopping when the specific gravity is still around 1.020; it said that there was still enough turbulence from the fermentation to get the most out of the hops. I've just sampled a bottle from my first batch using this method and I am very impressed.

The dry hop ratio was 2g/L.

Dave
 
I've used all sorts of brass objects to weigh down my bags:shock:
Im hoping the hop rocket will replace the need for dry hopping. Im doing a Punk spa clone tomorrow so i might split it into two batches - hop rocket one and dry hop the other:-)
 
I believe the idea is to chill the wort like a bugger to lock in the hope aroma/flavour using a plate chiller.
 
I've just come across this thread.

When I did my first brew, I added the hops using a muslin bag, but I didn't weigh it down.

Is this going to mean that much of the beer is going to be tasteless?
 
Dry hopping is mostly for aroma, it's to keep the volatile aromatic oils in the beer which would boil off if added in the kettle (even at flame out), Hop rockets work by extracting the oil then immediately chilling it so it can't evaporate but it's still subject to fermentation and being stripped out by the bubbling CO2. So at worst it just won't smell as hoppy.

If it's still in there, give it a poke with a sanitized spoon to sink it. If it's already bottled I'd not worry about it, just make a note for next time.

I prefer the method the festival kit's use, dry hopping with pellet hops, which sink slowly and just sit in the trub, then you can bottle as normal.
 
Dry hopping is mostly for aroma, it's to keep the volatile aromatic oils in the beer which would boil off if added in the kettle (even at flame out), Hop rockets work by extracting the oil then immediately chilling it so it can't evaporate but it's still subject to fermentation and being stripped out by the bubbling CO2. So at worst it just won't smell as hoppy.

If it's still in there, give it a poke with a sanitized spoon to sink it. If it's already bottled I'd not worry about it, just make a note for next time.

I prefer the method the festival kit's use, dry hopping with pellet hops, which sink slowly and just sit in the trub, then you can bottle as normal.

It's already bottled...the hope were in the vessel for 5 days so hopefully they managed to get the aromas to the beer.

Next time I'll use something to weigh the muslin bag down.
 
Not long, hours/days? I only ever put them in for 4 days and they were always sunk when it came to bottling. Can't remember it ever looking like that even before I started cold crashing.

Maybe I'm just lucky or there's some other variable at play.
 
Me too, I've made lots of Festival kits, just chuck the hops in without stirring or messing. They float about for a bit then next time you look they've sunk down. I usually ferment for a week or two, then add the hops for a further week and they're long gone in that time.

The little Festival filter bags work a treat too, bottle sediment is usually fairly light.
 

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