Flaked Maize
- Thread starter Wez
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U
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it acts as a nitrogen dilutant, so if you are having haze problems say through chill haze, they will be reduced. It does act as a flavour dilutant as well so you malt profile could be reduced, also because of this you may notice a 'sweet' corn flavour as well, but it does depend on how much you add
U
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It can be used up to 30% with US 6 Row Barley - Like Coors for example . . . but it would have a significant effect on taste . . . You could offset this with Melanoidin Malt, but really if you are having issues with Beer stability then fixing them will be more beneficial than trying to apply a sticking plaster.
Consider things like Length of boil (90 minutes minimum), Ferocity of boil ( A Good rolling boil, get the hops moving around), Good Kettle finings - we use Protofloc in the kettle, 25g worth in our standard beers, which is around the bottom of the recommended 1-4g per hectalitre. Be very aware that excessive protofloc can produce a very loose floc in the boiler - it sort of resembles heads of cauliflower, which takes a long time to settle . . . If ever. Obviously using top quality ingredients is a given
Consider things like Length of boil (90 minutes minimum), Ferocity of boil ( A Good rolling boil, get the hops moving around), Good Kettle finings - we use Protofloc in the kettle, 25g worth in our standard beers, which is around the bottom of the recommended 1-4g per hectalitre. Be very aware that excessive protofloc can produce a very loose floc in the boiler - it sort of resembles heads of cauliflower, which takes a long time to settle . . . If ever. Obviously using top quality ingredients is a given
jamesb
Landlord.
UserDeleted said:
Which brewery are you with UserDeleted?
UserDeleted said:
ah ha! i've been having that problem every time i've used protofloc and nearly binned it because of it!
but i've been using them as directed on the pot (cant remember exactly what the weights per 23L stated were offhand though)
so how many grams say per 10L would you reccomend for kettle finings and do you reccomend hidrating it? what time in the boil do you put it in?
i've followed the intructions to the letter and keep getting cauliflower!
U
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BrewStew said:
Murphys instructions for protofloc are 1-4g per Hectalitre (100l) so for 10l you are looking at 0.1-0.4g . . . . . It does matter as to the protein content of the worts as well . . . . . . lower gravity worts require less than high gravity ones as they have less protein. . . . If you are brewing with a high protein malt, or using a high protein adjunct then again you may need more. Dark beers also appear to need less.
Its a good idea to start at the bottom of the range (or slightly under that) and work upwards
Time wise add it 10 minutes before switching off the kettle, and No do not rehydrate it . . . . Give it about 30 minutes to work after switching off though, then cool the wort.
U
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jamesb said:
Would you mind if I didn't say? The boss has a distinct attitude toward homebrewers and passing on information to them.
jamesb
Landlord.
UserDeleted said:
Well yes, I would mind actually.
Don't worry, I know brewers like that too.Vossy1
Landlord.
UD, that's very interesting regards the flocs in the boiler when using proatafloc in excess.
It's been reported many times that it also produces flocs in the fv, making fv losses quite high on racking (I've experienced this myself)
Have you any experience of this ?
The data sheet hints at it by saying - It is better to add a little too much rather than too little; beer quality will not be compromised; the worse that can happen is higher beer losses in FV
I found protafloc to give far better wort clarity than whirlfloc, but the floccing put me off it.
My data sheets say 3-7g/hl for powder, 2-4g/hl fine granules/chips, 3-7g/hl tablets. Are they out of date ?
I might split this off into it's own thread to save it being lost.
Sorry for the hi-jacking Wez
It's been reported many times that it also produces flocs in the fv, making fv losses quite high on racking (I've experienced this myself)
Have you any experience of this ?
The data sheet hints at it by saying - It is better to add a little too much rather than too little; beer quality will not be compromised; the worse that can happen is higher beer losses in FV
I found protafloc to give far better wort clarity than whirlfloc, but the floccing put me off it.
My data sheets say 3-7g/hl for powder, 2-4g/hl fine granules/chips, 3-7g/hl tablets. Are they out of date ?
I might split this off into it's own thread to save it being lost.
Sorry for the hi-jacking Wez
A T
Regular.
I'm another victim of the dreaded cauliflower in the fv from time to time. This is a very interesting thread, thanks UD for the great information :thumb:
U
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Vossy1 said:
They may not be, we could be talking about different products, I am referring to the product sold by Murphy as Protofloc 2000 which comes in 5Kg bags. they are small (1.9g) tablets that are a brown grey in colour. . . . . Of course they may have revised the figures upwards, but from our experience in our kettle around 1g per Hectalitre is fine.
