Bolier Thermometer - would this be ok?

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784-610 80mm insertion for 150mm sensors £15.80 £15.80
Select Delivery Type: £12.00 (that was the cheap option!!!!!)
Vat: £5.56
Total: £33.36
 
i think i may try and make one out of 8mm copper pipe with a end cap on wot do you think it can not be that hard and a dam cheaper ill have a play today :D :thumb: :thumb:
 
tazuk said:
i think i may try and make one out of 7mm copper pipe with a end cap on wot do you think it can not be that hard and a dam cheaper ill have a play today :D :thumb: :thumb:

Tbh that's half the fun of it, I reckon you could easy make one, some of the american forums have got good "how to's" for making your own - let us know how you get on
 
guyb said:
Sean_Mc said:
Would really appreciated a pic heavy walk through when you mod your boiler :thumb:

No worries, waiting for a q-max cutter to arrive :-)

Cheers :thumb:

I bought this over 12 months ago (expensively) for the mash tun from Valves Online.

Think it would be better in the boiler now

IMG_06391_zpse35ae6f0.jpg
 
Taz are you going to fill the tube with heat transfer gel? The air gap may not give you an accurate reading of the liquid temp. But I'm no engineer. :hmm: :hmm:
 
tazuk said:
right here is how i going to try and do mine :D :thumb:

1 of those as locking nut

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbin ... 697/p90735

and one of these may just grind end nut off and use as locking nut

http://www.screwfix.com/p/reducing-coup ... 10mm/51238

then this the rubber seal just to hold end bit in place
DSCF4954_zps2cf38eab.jpg


or i may just solder a 10mm piece on to 8mm then in to reducer then job done at a few squid :D :thumb:



I would have thought one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/conex-tank-co ... 15mm/49673

and then
tazuk said:
just solder a 10mm piece on to 8mm then in to reducer then job done at a few squid :D :thumb:
but a piece of 15, to 10 to 8, or even a stub of 15 to 8mm with one of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/solder-ring-r ... -8mm/65038

making stuff is one of the best bits of brewing imho :grin:
 
mmmmm i see so how do the above work with temp guage on :wha: :wha:

bobsbeer said:
Taz are you going to fill the tube with heat transfer gel? The air gap may not give you an accurate reading of the liquid temp. But I'm no engineer. :hmm: :hmm:
 
but then you have to reduce from 15mm to 10 or 8 see wot i mean :thumb:

guyb said:
tazuk said:
right here is how i going to try and do mine :D :thumb:

1 of those as locking nut

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbin ... 697/p90735

and one of these may just grind end nut off and use as locking nut

http://www.screwfix.com/p/reducing-coup ... 10mm/51238

then this the rubber seal just to hold end bit in place
DSCF4954_zps2cf38eab.jpg


or i may just solder a 10mm piece on to 8mm then in to reducer then job done at a few squid :D :thumb:



I would have thought one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/conex-tank-co ... 15mm/49673

and then
tazuk said:
just solder a 10mm piece on to 8mm then in to reducer then job done at a few squid :D :thumb:
but a piece of 15, to 10 to 8, or even a stub of 15 to 8mm with one of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/solder-ring-r ... -8mm/65038

making stuff is one of the best bits of brewing imho :grin:
 
The one shown in the earlier posts was a reasonable snug fit and will have some surface contact. What about using 8 mm tube? The diameter of the pt100 probe is 6 mm, or at least mine is. The inside diameter of 8 mm tubing won't be far off 6 mm, so not much of an air gap. Not sure how you go from 8 mm to 15 mm though. :hmm: Springer was doing some turned nuts that worked without a thermowell. I did ask him to send me one ages ago but he must have forgotten.
 
tazuk said:
mmmmm i see so how do the above work with temp guage on :wha: :wha:

bobsbeer said:
Taz are you going to fill the tube with heat transfer gel? The air gap may not give you an accurate reading of the liquid temp. But I'm no engineer. :hmm: :hmm:

it was better put by Bob than me, but if you have something at 6mm in a 15mm gap, then the heat transfer might be inaccurate, although it could be accurate enough (for what you want) in the void, with 8mm, the wall of the thermowell is closer to the probe.

Also depends if you have any 8mm kicking about as it's not cheap.
 
the 8-15mm is to atach to hlt like a the tank conector the 8mm pipe will go to out side of fitting so not using 15mm pipe if you get my drift :thumb:

this the end of the 15mm nut is going to get ground off and used as a nut :thumb:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/reducing-coup ... 10mm/51238

bobsbeer said:
The one shown in the earlier posts was a reasonable snug fit and will have some surface contact. What about using 8 mm tube? The diameter of the pt100 probe is 6 mm, or at least mine is. The inside diameter of 8 mm tubing won't be far off 6 mm, so not much of an air gap. Not sure how you go from 8 mm to 15 mm though. :hmm: Springer was doing some turned nuts that worked without a thermowell. I did ask him to send me one ages ago but he must have forgotten.
 
tazuk said:
the 8-15mm is to atach to hlt like a the tank conector the 8mm pipe will go to out side of fitting so not using 15mm pipe if you get my drift :thumb:

this the end of the 15mm nut is going to get ground off and used as a nut :thumb:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/reducing-coup ... 10mm/51238

bobsbeer said:
The one shown in the earlier posts was a reasonable snug fit and will have some surface contact. What about using 8 mm tube? The diameter of the pt100 probe is 6 mm, or at least mine is. The inside diameter of 8 mm tubing won't be far off 6 mm, so not much of an air gap. Not sure how you go from 8 mm to 15 mm though. :hmm: Springer was doing some turned nuts that worked without a thermowell. I did ask him to send me one ages ago but he must have forgotten.


Ah, you are making a custom tank connector jobbie! - I think I understand etc. :grin:
 
:D :D :D :thumb: :thumb: you got it then you dont have to reduce from 15-8 mm :thumb: :D


guyb said:
tazuk said:
the 8-15mm is to atach to hlt like a the tank conector the 8mm pipe will go to out side of fitting so not using 15mm pipe if you get my drift :thumb:

this the end of the 15mm nut is going to get ground off and used as a nut :thumb:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/reducing-coup ... 10mm/51238

bobsbeer said:
The one shown in the earlier posts was a reasonable snug fit and will have some surface contact. What about using 8 mm tube? The diameter of the pt100 probe is 6 mm, or at least mine is. The inside diameter of 8 mm tubing won't be far off 6 mm, so not much of an air gap. Not sure how you go from 8 mm to 15 mm though. :hmm: Springer was doing some turned nuts that worked without a thermowell. I did ask him to send me one ages ago but he must have forgotten.


Ah, you are making a custom tank connector jobbie! - I think I understand etc. :grin:
 
Not sure if this would work, but you can get in model shops 12" lengths of 7 mm tube which has an id of 6 mm. You can also get 8 mm and 9 mm and 10 mm. That would fill the gap from 6 mm to 10 mm.
 
Just had a chat with a friend of mine who happens to have a lathe. So I have designed a thermowell that is also a bulkhead. I will get him my picture and see what he can do with it.

thermowellidea_zps1866dcca.jpg
 

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