Ace micro brewer

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when i did my brew i also had scorching but it did not trip out electric now I got the burn ring and it wont come of
will try a lower temp next time on the boil

I took it off with vinegar, and eventually steel scrub pad and elbow grease (just a little, wasn't that hard). There's no evidence of the scrubbing on the stainless, no scratches or anything.
 
Did a successful brew yesterday, 90 minute boil at 2500, had a bit of brown in the centre rather than a ring, wasn't difficult to remove though, it was a fairly hefty wort (sg 1.060) too, maybe i was just lucky!
 
I had the same thing happen... kept tripping an internal breaker, and at the end of the boil had a burnt ring on the bottom. This was during an actual brew (after having tested with water prior).

The problem now appears to have gone away... have subsequently run one full mock brew and one full actual brew without having the same trouble.

Also, I have not seen the burn ring, in spite of boiling wort for an hour at 2500 watts.

Maybe the burn and the breaker tripping are somehow related? Is it perhaps running beyond capacity, heating up beyond rating and thus tripping the breaker?

Perhaps it's worth trying again with yours, see if the problem remains? I have no idea why it would be so, but I'm hoping it's a 'first run' thing. My only evidence for this is that the problem appears to have gone away for me (knock on wood).



Happened twice now. First on a rolling boil about half way through (that one did my back in - having to reset every 3 minutes for an hour on the floor...). Second was only at 37C on a grain wet-out. Both times I had a burned horseshoe over the element.....

Second time I played with the settings for an hour during trips and limiting to 1700W worked but you cant get a decent boil....
 
Is it possible to run the boil on lower power? The older ace boiler I use runs at 1600w and gets a decent boil on and no signs of scorching or burning. I'm really considering on adding this kit to my set up and relegating my older ace to a hlt.


The problem seemed to go away at 1700W but this insnt insulated so you cant maintain a decent boil on 1700W....
 
The problem seemed to go away at 1700W but this insnt insulated so you cant maintain a decent boil on 1700W....

Did the same thing... reducing the wattage 100 by 100 and found that it didn't trip the breaker at exactly 1700 too...

And also spent a good chunk of time on the floor.

But has subsequently worked fine twice, done full brew routine without any problems, mashing at 800 watts and boiling at 2500. I really don't know why, why it failed first time or why it's got better now.

Hearing from you that you've had same problem makes me worried... less likely that it's just a loose connection or some other simple problem, more likely that the electronics have a bigger problem.
 
If it will not do a rolling boil without tripping out surely it is not fit for purpose and you are entitled to a refund, you shouldn't have to keep checking on it every few minutes.

.
 
I've made 2 brews using my Klairstein and haven't experienced this problem, there is a build up of burnt on sugars above the element but nothing different from what used to get burnt onto my Burco or onto the element in a 50 l drum I used to use for BIAB brews. It is concerning that a few of us are experiencing problems though!
 
If it will not do a rolling boil without tripping out surely it is not fit for purpose and you are entitled to a refund, you shouldn't have to keep checking on it every few minutes.

.

Absolutely - just received the RMA and it'll be on its way back to Germany later today. Shame as it is a nice unit when working.

For info I bought from hifitower and the returns process has been very easy.
 
I've not had the tripping out issue so far and boiled on 2500watt, mine is the klarstein. I noticed that reducing the 'power' only really switches the heater on and off with longer intervals so it is not really controlling the output of the heating element just cycling it on and off at full power.

They are also refunding me some money as their was no cooling coil.
 
So does that mean on the ones that are cutting out that the sensor is set to switch off the power at a certain temp, like on a burco? That being the case perhaps there are some faulty sensors in this batch of boilers.
 
is this the ace or the klarstein system that is tripping the electric
as mine is the klarstein system and mine is ok
 
Are you guys scraping the bottom of the system occasionally during boil with a steel paddle?

Yep scraping is required to prevent cut-outs, as shown in the Grainfather instruction video:



"As the wort comes to boil some proteins may collect on the base...scraping the bottom...avoids any troubles of the element overheating and cutting out"

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGUNmDiViOA&feature=youtu.be&t=9s[/ame]


https://youtu.be/TGUNmDiViOA?t=9s
 
Found link to full brewing video, the plate makes sense now!

Found some things out of order in that video. Like he removes the plate before sparging meaning he has to pour over his paddle instead of over the plate. The Grainfather video I think demonstrates how to sparge better:


Also he takes gravity reading before sparging.


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX2wvWKbWwg&feature=youtu.be&t=21s[/ame]

https://youtu.be/hX2wvWKbWwg?t=21s
 
Yep scraping is required to prevent cut-outs, as shown in the Grainfather instruction video:

https://youtu.be/TGUNmDiViOA?t=9s

"As the wort comes to boil some proteins may collect on the base...scraping the bottom...avoids any troubles of the element overheating and cutting out"

You just made my day.

This explains why it cut out one time, not the other... the nightmare brew I had, with it cutting out repeatedly, the burner was black at the end and had to be scrubbed with steel wool.

If that's the problem then the brewer is working as designed, not failing for some unexplained reason.
 

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