That PAC looks as though it should do the job fine. . . .Just remembert hat it is NOT a thermostat, it is just a power controller . . .great for controlling the boil vigor but not for controlling the temperature. To do that you need an accurate thermostat like a PID with a PT 100 sensor.
Burco 30ltr boiler (tea urn)
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Thanks Aleman! I've got a fancy digital thermometer for keeping an eye on the temp so that's not a problem.
Sorry to be a pest but could anyone clear up how to bypass the thermostat on this??
edit: Just had a thought. If the boiler doesn't cut out when it's set to 'high' would I need to disable/bypass the thermostat? if I rigged it up to the PAC and just stuck the boiler on high would I then be able to control it straight through the PAC?
Sorry to be a pest but could anyone clear up how to bypass the thermostat on this??
edit: Just had a thought. If the boiler doesn't cut out when it's set to 'high' would I need to disable/bypass the thermostat? if I rigged it up to the PAC and just stuck the boiler on high would I then be able to control it straight through the PAC?
shocker
Landlord.
Obviously running through a PAC or other system would be ideal , but in lieu of that could one not change the cut out switch for one of a slightly higher value ? They are easy to come by and easy to fit and cheap . The only real problem I could see there would be finding exactly the right one , as there are so many variables .
Of course , this is all at ones own risk and not advisable for anyone not confident AND competent and should be checked over by a registered electrician before use . Certainly before use by a third party . And given a PAT (portable appliance test) sticker .....
http://www.pat-testing.info/
now this shouldnt really be applicable to the hobby , personal uses we are talking about but , as has been pointed out to me , this is a world wide web and this info stays up for anyone to read for a long time so for the sake of the forum , I thought it best to be seen to toe the line . :whistle:
Of course , this is all at ones own risk and not advisable for anyone not confident AND competent and should be checked over by a registered electrician before use . Certainly before use by a third party . And given a PAT (portable appliance test) sticker .....
http://www.pat-testing.info/
now this shouldnt really be applicable to the hobby , personal uses we are talking about but , as has been pointed out to me , this is a world wide web and this info stays up for anyone to read for a long time so for the sake of the forum , I thought it best to be seen to toe the line . :whistle:
Thank you so much for your great. Advice and photo. I bought one of these for my husband and he was so disappointed he could to do a rolling boil. We followed your instructions and it worked a treat. (the grey wire on you photo is now brown on the new boilers ) I am so pleased we found this forum, it has great information :party:
Hi,
I am just about to modify my brand new burco, to maintain a stable boil.
I was wondering how long the elements have lasted on other people's burcos
I know the elements are meant to be used in a simmer mode, so was wondering what effect (in terms of life span) the modification has had in practice.
Thank you for any info.
I am just about to modify my brand new burco, to maintain a stable boil.
I was wondering how long the elements have lasted on other people's burcos
I know the elements are meant to be used in a simmer mode, so was wondering what effect (in terms of life span) the modification has had in practice.
Thank you for any info.
Modification, worked a treat, I had to by pass both the simmerstat, as shown above.
This worked well, but it still would not sustain a boil, so I by passed the thermostat with a switch.
All sorted. I can now set the Mash temperature with the thermostat, and then by pass the thermostat when I go for the boil.
Great posting, many many thanks
This worked well, but it still would not sustain a boil, so I by passed the thermostat with a switch.
All sorted. I can now set the Mash temperature with the thermostat, and then by pass the thermostat when I go for the boil.
Great posting, many many thanks
Jez Graves
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Help!
I have an old burco 33l which stopped working so got a new simmer stat, but the rear of the simmer stat is different to the old one. On the back of the stat there is L N Pilot and Load. I have two wires coming from the power lead, blue and brown. The brown is attached to the L and the blue to the N. I now have a remaining two wires a blue and a grey which go from stat to element. Any advice on which goes to which? Can I just experiment to get the right combo?
Just to clarify the earth wires are connected and haven't ended to be touched.
Any help gratefully accepted.
Jez
I have an old burco 33l which stopped working so got a new simmer stat, but the rear of the simmer stat is different to the old one. On the back of the stat there is L N Pilot and Load. I have two wires coming from the power lead, blue and brown. The brown is attached to the L and the blue to the N. I now have a remaining two wires a blue and a grey which go from stat to element. Any advice on which goes to which? Can I just experiment to get the right combo?
Just to clarify the earth wires are connected and haven't ended to be touched.
Any help gratefully accepted.
Jez
Found a wiring diagram for the commercial version, SKU 444448530, model numbers MFCT30ST and C30STHF. Can be identified by a single light.
click image uploadFrom:
https://www.hygienesuppliesdirect.com/products/productdata/burcomanual.pdf
This commercial C30STHF has thermostat 55.17022.070 which is range 30c-103c lower than the 110 on the consumer version, could be the reason for the boil stopping on a version that does not have the 97 degree safety cut out present.
It's hard to tell from the JPEG compression but the thermostat looks like it has the number 55.13022.050 which has a temperature control range: 30 ~ 110 C
It's good to test with water but wort can be different.
You must have got it before the new safety feature was introduced, now they all have to cut off at 93 degrees, e.g. Burcos and Buffalo. You can identify them with number 1 to 6 dials rather then degrees 30 - 110. Obviously they couldn't put a dial with 100 on it if it would never reach that temp. As far as I know the only manufacturer that doesn't have the new safety features is Qualtex but it likely won't be long. This has introduced a gap in the market though which Ace Ltd has exploited by importing boilers without this safety feature and designed for brewing with e.g. 2 hour tested boils.
Mine has the 1-6 dial on it rather than the 30-110. No problem with a rolling boil.
Mine has the 1-6 on it so hopefully i have got lucky and got.one which will keep a rolling boil
Ok so i have now done the second test, this time with 27L of water and it still managed to keep the rolling boil up for an hour. Hopefully it will be able to do this with wort instead of water but there is only one way of finding out, so i am waiting for my grain kits to come to give it a full run out in anger. Wish me luck. 🤞
Resurrecting this old thread once again, as I wanted to check whether my Burco Cygnet will maintain a rolling boil out of the box or if it will require some modification. Hoping someone might help as I've searched around quite a bit and just getting confused as to all the variants that are out there.
Pics are attached below - inside looks a lot like the one Hobbsy83 has posted but with the 110*C thermostat instead. It has the 1-5+Max dial on the outside.
Any modification needed?
Pics are attached below - inside looks a lot like the one Hobbsy83 has posted but with the 110*C thermostat instead. It has the 1-5+Max dial on the outside.
Any modification needed?
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