Sugar for cider kit and plan of attack

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RAYDAFFURN

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Hi Guys, going to be doing a cider kit, on the rocks one

What type of sugar should i use, kit suggests brewing sugar, is that the ideal one for a cider for both fermentation and priming?

Also when i go to prime i plan on putting 19L in a keg and the 4L in bottles, should i syphon from the fv to the keg and put 30psi in it and this will force carbonate it then i can store it like that still at 30psi until its ready to be hooked up to the beer lines then drop to 10-12psi when ready to servce?

heres my plan, only ever done a handful of brews and never ever done a cider kit, so let me know if all looks ok and never done kegging before:

Mix the wort using hot boiled water.
add to fv and cool it quickly (usually keep cold water in fridge the night before brewing) then give it a stir not splashing
take og reading
pitch the yeast at 22 deg (do i give this another stir or let the yeast sit on top?)
Leave in fv for about 14 days or until the fg says its ready
Transfer to second fv n add flavour syrup, give it another stir being careful not to splash, leave another 2 wks then
Keg 19l by syphon then put 30 psi in and purge a few times, for the 4L thats left batch prime (how much sugar and what kind?) then leave this for 2 weeks at room temperaute to clear
then finally move keg to fridge or garage 14 days min.
after 14 days hook up the keg to the beer lines drop psi to 10-12 psi for serving
 
Hi Guys, going to be doing a cider kit, on the rocks one

What type of sugar should i use, kit suggests brewing sugar, is that the ideal one for a cider for both fermentation and priming?

Also when i go to prime i plan on putting 19L in a keg and the 4L in bottles, should i syphon from the fv to the keg and put 30psi in it and this will force carbonate it then i can store it like that still at 30psi until its ready to be hooked up to the beer lines then drop to 10-12psi when ready to servce?

heres my plan, only ever done a handful of brews and never ever done a cider kit, so let me know if all looks ok and never done kegging before:

Mix the wort using hot boiled water.
add to fv and cool it quickly (usually keep cold water in fridge the night before brewing) then give it a stir not splashing
take og reading
pitch the yeast at 22 deg (do i give this another stir or let the yeast sit on top?)
Leave in fv for about 14 days or until the fg says its ready
Transfer to second fv n add flavour syrup, give it another stir being careful not to splash, leave another 2 wks then
Keg 19l by syphon then put 30 psi in and purge a few times, for the 4L thats left batch prime (how much sugar and what kind?) then leave this for 2 weeks at room temperaute to clear
then finally move keg to fridge or garage 14 days min.
after 14 days hook up the keg to the beer lines drop psi to 10-12 psi for serving

I don't make cider anymore as I have only had poor outcomes on the few times I tried. So, my suggestions should be viewed with that in mind, perhaps. :lol:

Brewing sugar is chemically the same as Table sugar, but is derived from maize, rather than Cane or Beet. The kit suggests the use of Brewing sugar and this is an example of "Marketing".

The kit is made up by using a small amount of boiling water to rinse out the kit container and adjust the temperature. Most of the water you add will be cold from the tap.

There seems no point in force carbing the keg initially, as adding priming sugar (Table sugar again) at kegging. In a keg, excess CO2 will presumably be vented off. One teaspoon (6g) a litre for priming should be there or thereabouts.

When you make the kit up at first, you want to add some oxygen to allow the yeast to replicate and form a viable brewing colony. Thereafter, oxidisation is to be avoided.

Hope this helps.
 
ok ill give it a stir when i add the container.

In regards to the yeast should i stir this in or just leave it on top?

So 6g per litre for the cider thats being bottled.
And do i need to add sugar when kegging? I though you could carbonate it by putting the pressure at 30psi.
So what should i do when kegging, can you explain in detail as i have never done before:
i.e. do i add sugar when transferring to keg?
what pressure should i put in the keg when it is being left at room temp for 2 weeks then 2 weeks in cold?
should i then change the pressure to force carb?
then change back to 12 when serving?

just not sure how to do it when kegging
 
ok ill give it a stir when i add the container.

In regards to the yeast should i stir this in or just leave it on top?

So 6g per litre for the cider thats being bottled.
And do i need to add sugar when kegging? I though you could carbonate it by putting the pressure at 30psi.
So what should i do when kegging, can you explain in detail as i have never done before:
i.e. do i add sugar when transferring to keg?
what pressure should i put in the keg when it is being left at room temp for 2 weeks then 2 weeks in cold?
should i then change the pressure to force carb?
then change back to 12 when serving?

just not sure how to do it when kegging
Anyone, hoping to get this brewing tomorrow
 
Good luck with the brew..

your getting there, relax,, you have at circa 2weeks in the fv before you need panic about barrelling ;)

PB's are great but not for highly conditioned brews or drinks you like with a lot of fizz, the reasons being they sit in relitivly warm spots. and the barrel cannot contain pressures above circa 12psi..
They are best suited to serving less conditioned bitters and ales..
Bottles while a bit more faf in cleaning rinsing sanitising and rinsing and rinsing etc can contain pressures needed to build up higher levels of condition for brews you like more fizz in.

So If you opt to barrel in the pb dont expect the most fizzy output.

once you bottle or barrel the sugars provided for the yeast have generally been exhausted so in order to condition the brew in the bottle or barrel you need to add a priming charge,
and you add this either to the bottle or keg before sealing up.

Unless you have the capacity to chill the pressure barrel you dont stand a chance in hell of force or pressure conditioning, check an online kegging chart to validate the sorts of pressures needed at room temps to condition a brew with pressure alone.https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&ved=0CFoQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kegerators.com%2Farticles%2Fcarbonation-table-pressure-chart.php&ei=Tn_MUv_qC5CqhAfL5YHQAw&usg=AFQjCNFBmyJM8-kSKjo26ur1iyUdS-nxpA&sig2=xbA22cKg6g1riDhoRe225w&bvm=bv.58187178,d.ZG4

If you can chill the pb to a level that will allow conditioning @ 10-12psi (pbs prv's are rubber bands so not exactly precision devices) then you face the problem of supplying a consistent supply of co2 @ a sufficient pressure..

Simply, theoretically its possible but in reality its far from practical and naturally conditioning with a priming charge of circa 200g of sugar is probably the best option if using a PB

fwiw regarding sugar, use golden sugar if you like but avoid dark brown sticky sugar as that will contain larger amounts of unfermentables akin to molasses which when fermented with brewing yeast can impart a strong overpowering licorice flavour..
 
Ok I have built a kegerator n have the c02 on the outside so force carbing based on what you said should be ok.

So what are you referring to when you say pb- pet bottles?

Also when I move to the keg to condition can I just pop in 12 psi n leave it on the co2 at that n that will condition n carb it? N just another thought after say a week or so on the c02 can I unhook it as it should be carbonated and should hold the psi?

Last question much sugar to prime pet n glass bottles going to do a mix for the few litres that are left
 
Read first post again and you have a 19l Keg, corny?? DOH!! I misunderstood and thought you were using a plastic pressure barrel or PB my bad.. so no 12psi limit ;)

to pressure condition check the conditioning chart for the temp/pressure combo optimum for the level of condition you want and simply set that on your regulator and temp controller and within a week-10days the beer should be ready to serve, leave hooked upto gas to maintain the condition level ;)

for priming bottles i would go with the above 6g per pint ;) nice n fizzy..
 
next your going to need some sort of anti fobbing precaution, (fobbing= foam) most of us employ thin 3/16" pressure reducing microline post keg, If the beer is released at the tap at the same pressure as it is contained in the keg with, the difference between atmospheric pressure and keg pressure will be BIG and a Big change be it temperature or pressure can stimulate a foam out ;)

generally a 5-6ft length of 3/16" microline between the keg and tap is sufficient to reduce most serving pressures down to a nominal drop at the tap = slower but cleaner pour..
 
Yes that's what I intend to do with the lines, I'm trying to extend the lines but see the nut part that's between the hose and the coupler is there a part with a male thread you can screw into that part and extend it?
 
Yes that's what I intend to do with the lines, I'm trying to extend the lines but see the nut part that's between the hose and the coupler is there a part with a male thread you can screw into that part and extend it?

Not quite following what you mean, Is this the thread your talking about??
image_b671d222-d9a1-4583-8eb8-296d77344ab2_1024x1024.jpg


then generally folk attach either a 3/8" JG fitting or a 1/4" barb (the inside diameter of 3/8" gas/beer line).

then use either a 3/8" stem to 3/16" jg reducer or a short length of 3/8" line and a 3/8"to 3/16" JG reducer..

Taps generally have JG fittings built in so use reducers tha mate with your tap.

However if your tap screws directly onto the disconnect (corny couplers are called disconnects..) Then your buggered and you need a new tap (black plastic dalex style cost £5 + on ebay, 2nd use branded are the cheapest.

the connect directly to keg taps are only useful if you drop the keg pressure to a nominal amount to pour, any significant pressure in the keg will result in pouring a 2l jug of foam to reap 1/4 of a pint of flat beer when it settles.

I know i bought the same tap in a "corny delux bundle" from brew UK hurmph!! and then spent months pouring nowt but foam befor finding sites like this and helpful enlightenment ;)


the corny disconnect thread is iirc 7/16" FFL, and i have not found any male 7/16" to 3/8" jg connectors anywhere or a reasonable bodge up job,
 
Ok hopefully this explains it better. This is a pic of what I have, my lines are about 5ft long

Should I just cut the line and buy an adapter that allows me to connect two bits of 3/8 line (what's the name of this?) thus allowing me to lengthen it.

Then put the bit I just cut off (the swivel type nut that connects to the ball lock valve) back on with a jubilee clip to allow me to hook back up to the keg?

Also what line lengths for lager n cider, I have 2 taps.

IMG_2845.jpg
 
Ahh a party tap !! linking to other brew forums can be frowned upon in here so may i suggest you use google to search for " Balancing keg systems with corny keg/picnic tap" might provide you with a shed load of utubes and how to posts on the subject ;)

i have no experience with party taps myself and am not sure of the dimensions of the non standard pvc tube used, it might be 3/8" OD but it might not?? probably is but????

But in essence YES cut the line and insert a length of the 3/16" microline between the 2 halves..
 
Its not a picnic tap thats a ball lock disconnect.

Ive got a set of calipers so ill just check the id/od and extend, cheers for all the help
 
$_57.JPG


this is whats commonly called a party tap and i think in the US they call them picnic taps..

$_57.JPG


is one modified with a screw on jg fitting onto the disconnect, into that there is a stem fitting with a 3/16" jg into which the thin line is attached. At the tap end it looks like a 3/16" to 3/8" connector onto beerline connected to the tap..
 

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