Fermentation Control Malfunction - Am I Screwed?

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radm4

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Hi folks,

This morning I woke up to find my fermentation temperature control had gone haywire and had been heating constantly over night.

I don't know for sure, as I was leaving for work and only had time to quickly disconnect everything and stick the beer outside to cool down as quickly as possible, but I would guess it was up at 60 odd degrees.

The beer was currently being dry hopped and I was planning to bottle it in the next couple of days (its an American IPA).

My main question - is the beer likely to be ruined? Should I pour it down the drain and forget about it?

If not, here's my current assumptions (and some follow up questions):

1. The yeast will be dead so if I want to bottle condition I'll need to re-pitch some? Whats the best approach for this?

2. There are going to be some off flavours from the beer been heated like this. Is there anything I can do to get rid of / reduce them? Will they be noticeable in the beer?

3. Some of the aromas from dry hopping will have been driven off, probably the least of my worries at this point.

What do you think, worth trying to salvage or is it likely a lost cause and not worth the effort?
 
I think safale do a yeast that's pretty much just for bottle conditioning, think it's usually for high gravity beers that have been in fermenter for a long time. If you think the yeast is dead/cooked maybe rack the beer off the cake asap, maybe use a strainer bag with a siphon and stop as much cooked sediment being transferred. I'm a newbie with brewing so this is just my tuppence worth.
 
Your brew was up to 60C? Im guessing at those temp you've made a fusil bomb. Fusils dont condition out. Taste it. If it taste fine bottle it. It may need lots of conditioning to condition out off flavours. If there's off flavours they may or may not condition out depending on what they are.

If your brew was at 60C you've almost definatly killed the yeast but you can just re-seed the brew with some re-hydrated yeast or some slurry if you have some
 
Were you dry hopping in secondary? If primary was finished then there shouldn't be much fermentable left for the yeast to turn into fusel alcohol. Read somewhere that after 72 hours of a normal fermentation that the chance of fusel alcohol being made is very low. Don't know how the yeast behaves at the high temp you experienced though.
 
Sounds like you may have pasturised your brew.

I would first have a taste or two and then decide but I agree the yeast is probably destroyed. I wouldn`t expect any noticable off tastes from the yeast at such a late stage of the brew just a different taste from been pasturised. Depending on how it tastes you could maybe dry hop again.

If it tastes ok then I would make up a starter and repitch before bottling or kegging etc. but I have heard of others adding a granule or two of dried yeast to each bottle.
 
Hi folks,

This morning I woke up to find my fermentation temperature control had gone haywire and had been heating constantly over night.

I don't know for sure, as I was leaving for work and only had time to quickly disconnect everything and stick the beer outside to cool down as quickly as possible, but I would guess it was up at 60 odd degrees.

The beer was currently being dry hopped and I was planning to bottle it in the next couple of days (its an American IPA).

My main question - is the beer likely to be ruined? Should I pour it down the drain and forget about it?

If not, here's my current assumptions (and some follow up questions):

1. The yeast will be dead so if I want to bottle condition I'll need to re-pitch some? Whats the best approach for this?

2. There are going to be some off flavours from the beer been heated like this. Is there anything I can do to get rid of / reduce them? Will they be noticeable in the beer?

3. Some of the aromas from dry hopping will have been driven off, probably the least of my worries at this point.

What do you think, worth trying to salvage or is it likely a lost cause and not worth the effort?


Warm hopping at this stage may have actually given you some interesting flavours that wouldn't have otherwise been extracted from the hops.

I'd add some Nottingham yeast before bottling and proceed as normal. Might be a tasty brew, certainly do not commit it to the drain just yet.
 
Hi folks,

This morning I woke up to find my fermentation temperature control had gone haywire and had been heating constantly over night.

I don't know for sure, as I was leaving for work and only had time to quickly disconnect everything and stick the beer outside to cool down as quickly as possible, but I would guess it was up at 60 odd degrees.

The beer was currently being dry hopped and I was planning to bottle it in the next couple of days (its an American IPA).

My main question - is the beer likely to be ruined? Should I pour it down the drain and forget about it?

If not, here's my current assumptions (and some follow up questions):

1. The yeast will be dead so if I want to bottle condition I'll need to re-pitch some? Whats the best approach for this?

2. There are going to be some off flavours from the beer been heated like this. Is there anything I can do to get rid of / reduce them? Will they be noticeable in the beer?

3. Some of the aromas from dry hopping will have been driven off, probably the least of my worries at this point.

What do you think, worth trying to salvage or is it likely a lost cause and not worth the effort?
in the op you said you were dry hopping the beer ready for bottling, does that mean 1st ferment was done and dusted and you were clearing and dry hopping? if so why was the heat belt/ fermentation system on? once 1st ferment is done the yeast doesnt need any warmth, or am i reading it wrong?
 
I'd rack it off the (now) dead yeast as soon as possible, as they were probably in the process of cleaning up and breaking down unwanted compounds. All of which can be released back into your beer from their non-functioning cells.

Taste it. If it's Ok you can carry on, even dry hop again, just make sure you reseed some fresh yeast cells if priming for carbonation. Any brewing yeast will do the job, as it'll have little affect on flavour with the amount of priming sugar needed, google 'reseeding yeast for lager bottling', for procedure, pitchrate, etc. You may need to prime slightly higher because any residual co2 from fermentation will have been lost at 60C.
 
If dry hopping then most of the yeasts work has been done so nominal flavour damage from esters and fussells are a slight risk.

results of yeast stress and death at higher temps may show through??

when it comes to conditioning prime with a gram or 2 extra sugar per bottle to make up for the significantly lower natural level of disolved co2 due to the extra heat.

but otherwise its worth crossing your fingers and seeing the brew through, There is a good chance the accident may impart a different slant on the brew you may even wish to recreate??
 
in the op you said you were dry hopping the beer ready for bottling, does that mean 1st ferment was done and dusted and you were clearing and dry hopping? if so why was the heat belt/ fermentation system on? once 1st ferment is done the yeast doesnt need any warmth, or am i reading it wrong?

Dry hopping shouldn't be cold, as then it will fail to extract all the flavour from the hops.
 
Dry hopping shouldn't be cold, as then it will fail to extract all the flavour from the hops.

i folllowed the link to view the web page on dry hopping temps, the cool temp used on the page was 2 deg C (36f) thats not cold thats bloody freezing! temp in most houses if the FV is perched on the dining table- i get away with a lot lol- wouldnt drop past 10 C even on a real cold night

excerpt taken from the same website
"Of the 10 correct respondents, 3 reported preferring the cool dry hopped beer, 5 said the liked the warm dry hopped beer better, and 2 had no clear preference despite noting the beers as being different."

not too much of a difference really

seems temp choice is as individual as the beer we make.

heres hoping the beer concerned is ok and very drinkable.
 
Report what the outcome was..? Would be curious. I would have racked the wort to another fv, cooled, and repitched.
 
i folllowed the link to view the web page on dry hopping temps, the cool temp used on the page was 2 deg C (36f) thats not cold thats bloody freezing! temp in most houses if the FV is perched on the dining table- i get away with a lot lol- wouldnt drop past 10 C even on a real cold night

excerpt taken from the same website
"Of the 10 correct respondents, 3 reported preferring the cool dry hopped beer, 5 said the liked the warm dry hopped beer better, and 2 had no clear preference despite noting the beers as being different."

not too much of a difference really

seems temp choice is as individual as the beer we make.

heres hoping the beer concerned is ok and very drinkable.

In Stan Hieronymus' book on hops (emphasis mine):

Dry hopping warmer speeds extraction, an important consideration for many breweries trying to keep up with the demand for dry-hopped beers. It increases the danger of extracting unwanted vegetal and fishy odor compounds, but an experienced brewer may gain better control over just what gets extracted. Brewers produce excellent beers dry hopped at a wide range of temperatures. The brewers on the panel at CBC in Chicago all dry hop “warm” but nonetheless differently.

It seems that at that this Craft Brewers Conference panel all dry hop around fermentation temperature, which is consistent with the advice I've read online and what seems to be borne out by Marshall Scott's extreme but small xBmt, so I don't find it surprising that radm4 is doing the same. Of course you are right, it is individual preference, and there is nothing wrong with a cold dry hop. Personally, I don't ferment on the dining table but in a cold pantry, so I keep the water bath heater on at 17-18C when dry hopping, which is the same temp that stone brewing does it (17C), but still less than Laguanitas (21C) or Sierra Nevada (20C). It works for me.
 
In Stan Hieronymus' book on hops (emphasis mine):



It seems that at that this Craft Brewers Conference panel all dry hop around fermentation temperature, which is consistent with the advice I've read online and what seems to be borne out by Marshall Scott's extreme but small xBmt, so I don't find it surprising that radm4 is doing the same. Of course you are right, it is individual preference, and there is nothing wrong with a cold dry hop. Personally, I don't ferment on the dining table but in a cold pantry, so I keep the water bath heater on at 17-18C when dry hopping, which is the same temp that stone brewing does it (17C), but still less than Laguanitas (21C) or Sierra Nevada (20C). It works for me.
i wish i could get away with the dining table brewing station but it is only used after racking from fv1 and then moved to the dining table so bottling is a tad easier when i am sat down, fermenting takes place in the corner of the kitchen on the floor with a brew belt, stc1000 temp control box and a spare hi vis fleecy jacket, and a thick piece of cardboard to keep the fv off the floor, amazing when you consider i am a lagger by trade and make custom insulated jackets for valves and the like in work yet use a hi vis jacket when at home! i did make a nice insulated jacket for my boiler, what a difference, kept the heat in a treat got to the boil quicker etc, a mate of mine got his company to make me a custom waterproof jacket for my mash tun with velcro fastening all the way round, smart if i do say so myself.
and yes i am gonna cold dry hop the batch on the dining room table average temp at the mo at table height is around 17 C
 
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